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THE 



AMATEURS' GUIDE 



FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY; 

CONTAINING 

EVEKY KEQUISITE DETAIL 



Successful (Mtitatwtt of % Jflcfacr-^aAcit. 

EMBRACING 

THE CLASSIFICATION OP THE BEST VARIETIES OP ROSES, AND ALL PLANTS 
REQUISITE FOR THE GARDEN, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR PROPA- 
GATION, AND REMEDIES FOR THE DESTRDCTION OP INSECTS. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED THE 

VEGETABLE GARDEN MANUAL. 



V' 
BY JOHN T. C. 


CLARK. 

ii 








Vef/I 


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WASHINGTON, 


D 


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c. 


d, 


PUBLISHED BY TAYLOR 


& MAURI 




1856. 










TO THE 

AMATEURS OF THE UNITED STATES, 
THIS VOLUME 
Is respectfully dedicated, by 
THE AUTHOR. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by 

JOHN T. C. CLARK, 

In the Clerk's Office of the Circuit Court of the District of Columbia. 



of. 

PUINTED BY 



JAMES YOUNG 

BALTIMORE. 



PREFACE 



The love of Nature affords us the purest delight and is implant- 
ed in the human breast. While contemplating the wonders of the 
vegetable kingdom, we instinctively bow before her shrine and are 
forced to acknowledge her sovereignty. ' ' Flowers, of all created 
things, are the most innocent — simple and the most complex — 
playthings for childhood and ornaments for the grave." Nature 
is most lavish in her gifts, and in order to appreciate and enjoy 
them, we should listen to her voice and study well her teachings, 
for they will surely inculcate a tone of refinement, affoi'd pleasant and 
healthful employment, and give us exalted views of her Creator. 

With a view of being instrumental in inducing some, at least, 
to partake of the pleasures which the practical study of Floricul- 
ture imparts, and to the repeated demands of kind friends, the 
present little volume is presented to the public. 

Numerous and excellent have been the works written on Flori- 
culture, yet they are generally unsuited to the wants of the Ama- 
teur, for should he have occasion to consult their pages upon an 
emergency — being written, in most cases, for the guidance of the 
scientific Florist — he either cannot understand them or fails to find 
the information which he seeks. In order to remedy this defi- 
ciency, in part, the author has been induced to embody his prac- 
tical experience in the management of the Flower-Grarden ; and, in 
the arrangement of the work, he has endeavored to present, in a 
clear and available manner, every necessary detail, thereby ob- 
viating, or removing to some extent, the difficulties which the 
Amateur encounters in the works referred to. Should it be the 



IV 

means of assisting one of the numerous Amateurs who have here- 
tofore been deterred from pursuing the practical study of Floricul- 
ture to surmount the obstacles which have obstructed his progress, 
or inducing others to make the acquaintance of Flora, whose 
flowery paths abound with innocent pleasures, his object will be 
fully attained. 

With some few exceptions, the author has embodied his own 
practical experience in the cultivation of the plants enumerated. 
He does not claim all as original, freely acknowledging his in- 
debtedness to "Loudon's Encyclopedia of Plants" and other 
standard works, for the generic or specific names of many plants. 
The practical and valuable information contained in the Vegeta- 
ble-Garden Manual has been carefully compiled from various re- 
liable sources. He would here tender his acknowledgments to all 
to whom he is indebted for valuable information. 

Under the patronage of the Amateur the author would respect- 
fully place this his first effort, knowing that their love of the sub- 
ject on which it treats will enable them to overlook all deffieiencies 
on his part in his endeavors to induce others to partake of the 
enjoyments which Floriculture afford to her votaries. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The practical study of Floriculture imparts to the Amateur in- 
nocent and healthful recreation, and opens to him a large field for 
profitable contemplation and study. "With what pleasure does he 
listen to her teachings, and which unfold to his view the beautiful 
harmony of Nature! All Nature rejoices with him, and the swell- 
ings of his own bosom are but the vibrations of that all-pervading 
system of harmony that thrills throughout the vast extent of Crea- 
tion. Herein are the means for the cultivation of the better feel- 
ings of our nature, and which tend to relax the care-worn mind 
and to raise our affections above the angry turmoils of life. 

Nature is most industrious in adorning her domains, and Man, 
to whom this bounty is addressed, should obey the lesson. He 
too should adorn his home — the dwelling of his wife and chil- 
dren — with pleasant objects, and with all those attractions which 
will make it cheerful. What will tend more to this end than a 
flower-garden, filled with beautiful flowers, imparting their fra- 
grance, elevating and purifying the soul of the beholder? If this 
be done, the home will become the abode of cheerfulness. 

Where flowers arc planted, the home becomes a tasteful resi- 
dence, while its intrinsic value is greatly enhanced. Cultivated 
taste gives beauty and value to property, and the small cost of a 
flower-garden, so far from being a useless expense, as some assert, 
add to the money-value of the property. 

Children learn to love every flower. Innocent, happy child- 
hood, how delighted with the beauties of Flora! In after life, 
their affections will cling to the beautiful and hallowed spot where 



first they beheld the beauties of Nature, and whose lessons were 
imprinted on their young hearts by a fond and affectionate mother. 
The eyes of the father become opened to the influence of the les- 
sons which Nature imparts, and he fondly cherishes every plant 
which has afforded so much pleasure to his children and comfort 
to his household. The fond mother anxiously watches and nur- 
tures them, and finds a solace in the cares, which have a simili- 
tude to the trials of earlier days, to soften and soothe, and yet not 
sadden the heart. 

The author would respectfully appeal to all to encourage the 
study of practical Floriculture, and particularly the Ladies. "A 
natural fondness for flowers is an evidence of a refined mind, and 
their cultivation will create a delicate taste." Learn to plant and 
cultivate them, and the pleasure will increase in proportion to 
your efforts, and remain when all others have departed. They 
endear us to local attachments, and the recollection of which, in 
after years, carry us back to the sunny hours and innocent pleas- 
ures of childhood, and afford us delight in visiting the scenes of 
our youth. 



THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 



THE COMPONENT PARTS OF SOIL, 

Whatever may be their color, are argil, sand, water, and air. 
Into these original principles may all earths be reduced, however 
blended with apparently foreign substances. Argil is the soft and 
unctuous part of the clay. The primitive earths, (argil and sand,) 
contain each, perhaps in nearly equal degrees, the food of plants, 
but in their union the purposes of vegetation are most completely 
answered. The precise quantity of each necessary to make this 
union perfect, and whether they ought to be equal, it is neither 
very easy nor material to ascertain, since that point is best deter- 
mined in practice, when the soil proves to be neither too stiff or 
adhesive from the superabundance of clay, nor of too loose or weak 
a texture from an over quantity of sand in its composition. 



BEST SOIL FOR A GARDEN. 

Prefer a sandy loam, not less than twelve inches deep, and 
good earth, not of a binding nature in summer nor of retentive of 
water in winter, but of such a texture that it can be worked with- 
out difficulty in any season of the year. Few plants require less 
depth of earth to grow in to bring them to perfection, and if the 
soil of the garden be two or more feet deep so much the better ; 
for, when many varieties of plants are in a state of maturity, if 
their roots be minutely traced, they will be found to penetrate into 



8 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

the earth, in search of food, to the depth of two feet or more, pro- 
vided the nature of the soil will permit them. If avoidable, never 
make a garden on land whose bottom is of a wet or springy na- 
ture. If this precaution be taken, drainage will be unnecessary. 
When a garden is properly prepared for the growth of plants b} T 
trenching, manuring, and digging, it is brought into such a porus 
temperament that the rains pass through the soil without being 
detained longer than necessary. If the soil of the garden be of 
too strong a nature, it should be well incorporated with sand or 
the scrapings of gutters, streets, &c. 



PREPARATION OF MANURE. 

The term manure is indiscriminately applied to all substances 
which are known from experience either to enrich the different 
soils or contribute in any other way to render them more favorable 
to vegetation. These may be reduced to light sandy loam from 
commons, peat-earth from the surface of marshes, vegetable-earth 
from decayed leaves or stalks, sand, lime-rubbish, ashes, ,soot, 
stable manure, &c. There are no known garden plants that will 
not grow and thrive in one or the other of these earths, alone or 
mixed. Nurserymen seldom use more than three kinds, viz : 
Loam, peat, and well-rotted stable manure. With these, they 
continue to grow thousands of different species of plants in as 
great or greater perfection as their native countries, and many hi 
a superior manner. 

The preparation of composts for general enrichment consists in 
collecting in the spring each soil in separate heaps, thoroughly 
mixing them together, and turning them every month until the 
whole become well incorporated together. After fermentation has 
taken place they are fit for use and may be applied to the garden. 
In all composts in which manure is a component part, one year 
at least should be allowed for decomposition, and what is termed 
sweetening, before applied to delicate flowers, especially bulbs. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 

This important and requisite object is easily accomplished if the 
ground is spaded deep and equal and turned over equally with the 
part which constitutes the surface and well pulverized. In many 
instances these precautions are neglected, the ground being spaded 
in a shallow manner. When this is the case, the object is only 
partly attained, for the food of the plants can only be imperfectly 
procured. Ground should never be spaded in wet weather if 
avoidable, for sourerness and adhesion then takes place, which is 
rarely overcome until the operation is again repeated, and which 
will prove very injurious, if not fatal, to the plants inserted there- 
in. If the grounds need enriching, manure should be applied late 
in the fall and well dug in, early in the following spring. 



SOWING SEED. 

The ground having been prepared in accordance with the di- 
rections above, the beds should be well raked and leveled, and 
the seed sown in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills, 
from an eighth to half an inch in depth, according to the size and 
nature of the seed. Annual flower-seed should be sown in April, 
May, or June, according to their hardiness. — (See Classification 
of Plants.) Many flower-seed are planted so deep that they can- 
not vegetate, such as Sweet Alyssum and other small seed, when 
the Amateur readily concludes that they were old and worthless, 
and the seedsman is sure to receive unmerited censure. As a 
general rule, if the very small flower-seed, such as Sweet Alys- 
sum, Portulacca, Petunia, &c, be sown broadcast, and not cov- 
ered, provided the ground has been well pulverized, they will do 
much better than when sown by the ordinary method. If the seed 
of the Cypress Vine, Morning Glory, &c, be soaked in warm wa- 



10 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ter or milk for fifteen or twenty minutes before being planted, they 
will vegetate much sooner and flower earlier than without. All 
flower-seed will generally make their appearance in three weeks 
after being sown. In dry weather, they should have occasional 
waterings; care should be taken, however, not to give them too 
much. Excessive moisture is injurious and causes the seed to 
rot. A small water-pot, having a very fine rose or nozzle, should 
be used for this purpose. 



TRANSPLANTING. 

This operation consists in removing plants, whether from seed, 
cuttings, or grafts, according to their kinds and other circumstan- 
ces, to a situation prepared to receive them. Transplanting, there- 
fore, consists of three things, viz : 

1. The preparation of the soil to which the plant is to be re- 
moved. 

The preparation of the soil implies, in all cases, stirring, loosen- 
ing, mixing, and comminution; and, in many cases, the addition 
of manure or compost, according to the nature of the soil and the 
plant to be inserted. 

2. The removal of the plant. 

The removal of the plant is generally effected by loosening the 
earth around it and then drawing it out of the soil, in all cases 
avoiding as much as possible to break, bruise, or otherwise injur- 
ing the roots. In the case of small seedling plants, by merely in- 
serting the garden-trowel and raising the portion of earth in which 
they grow will suffice ; but in the removal of larger plants, it may 
be necessary to dig a trench around the plant. In some cases, the 
plant may be lifted with a ball of earth containing all its roots by 
means of the spade. 

3. The insertion of the plant in the prepared soil. 

In setting out plants, particularly seedlings, cloudy or rainy 
weather should be selected. Seedlings should be set out from 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 11 

time to time, lest a hot season should prematurely arrive and de- 
stroy them. As a general rule, it will be found advisable to pro- 
tect seedlings, particularly when first removed from the seed-bed, 
against the rays of the sun for a few days. An inverted flower- 
pot will serve for this purpose. With small plants, it will only be 
necessary to make a hole in the soil sufficient to admit the plant, 
insert the same, drawing up the soil gently around it, and give 
gentle waterings for a few days, and protect by shading. When 
changing the position of large plants, the ground having been 
selected, excavate with the spade a hole in proportion to the size 
of the plant to be inserted, and — (if for roses, place broken pieces 
of flower-pots, soft brick, &c, in the bottom, and cover with soil 
three inches deep in alternate layers of soil and fragments) — hav- 
ing carefully untangled any matted roots which may present them- 
selves, insert the plant in the hole made to receive it to its origi- 
nal depth, holding the same in an upright position, and work the 
soil well in among the roots with the hand. Fill in the soil, and 
gently press with the foot the sides of the plant to keep it in its 
position. Water and stake securely. Plants should never be 
crowded, for it is not only very injurious, but destroys the beauty 
of the garden. 



WALKS AND BEDS. 

Great diversity of opinion prevail in regard to the rule or plan 
on which the grounds should be laid off. Some contend for straight 
or parallel walks and beds, while others maintain that the whole 
beauty of the garden is marred unless it be cut up into serpentine 
walks and irregular or fancy-shaped flower-beds. And others 
again affirm that in the blending of the plants and shrubs to- 
gether, so as to hide all artficial or studied effect, consists the 
achme of perfection. Where such a difference and taste exist, 
we would not willingly become the umpire ; but, as every person 
will be governed in part, at least, by their own opinion and taste 



12 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

in these particulars, we would venture to suggest that, in planning 
and laying out grounds, if they will consult "the Genius of the 
Place," and act in accordance with such suggestions as she may 
point out, they no doubt will be enabled to effect this object to the 
mutual satisfaction of themselves and their critical friends. 

There are, however, two evils under this head to which we 
would invite the particular attention of the Amateur, and which 
should be carefully guarded against, viz : 

1. In laying off your walks, you cannot be too careful in regard 
to their width. No walk should be less than two and a half feet 
wide; for, when contracted, it may prove the death of some favor- 
ite plant and be the means of ruining the dress of some lady 
friend. If the ground can be spared, sufficient width should be 
given to permit the ingress and egress of a wheel-barrow. 

2. In order to maintain the uniformity, as well as the durability 
of garden-walks, it is essentially requisite that a proper drainage 
should be secured. One inch fall in three feet will be found gen- 
erally sufficient for this purpose. Where grounds have a greater 
declivity, not only the walks, but the beds, are likely to wash, 
which injures the general appearance of the garden. One inch to 
the foot, from the centre to the edge, will give a form sufficiently 
rounding for all practical or ornamental purposes in a walk of four 
feet wide. In walks of greater width, less fall is advisable and 
will serve the purpose. 



GRAVEL-WALKS. 

The bottom should be made with lime-rubbish, pieces of bricks, 
stones, coal-ashes, or any other hard substance, from four to six 
inches thick, to keep weeds or grass from growing through. 
Over this fine gravel should be laid from three to four inches 
deep. This should be laid rounding up in the middle, by which 
means the larger stones will run off to the sides and may be raked 
away. It is a common mistake to lay the walks too rounding, 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 13 

which not only make them uneasy to walk upon, but takes off 
from then- apparent breadth. One inch to the foot, is sufficient 
proportion for the rise in the centre ; so that a walk of four feet 
wide, should be two inches higher in the centre than at the edges, 
and so in proportion for walks of greater width. One inch in 
three feet, will give sufficient fall for drainage. These directions 
are applicable for medium-sized gardeus. In extensive grounds, 
greater width will be necessary, in order to insure the symetrical 
proportions of the parterre; in which case, the gravel should be 
laid deeper. As soon as the gravel is laid on, it should be well 
raked and the large stones removed. The whole should be well 
rolled, both lengthwise and crosswise. A clean gravel-walk adds 
greatly to the beauty of the garden. If the walks are extensive, 
they shoidd be rolled once a week, particularly after a rain. 



GATHERING SEED. 

Those who wish to gather flower-seed must attend to them in 
the month of August. Many kinds will begin to ripen and should 
be carefully staked and supported, to prevent them from being 
shaken by high winds and lost. Others should be defended from 
dampness, such as Asters, and generally such as, from the con- 
struction of their flowers, are apt to rot and the seed to mould in 
bad seasons. When they are ripe, they should be gathered and 
placed in some dry situation, protected against winds, and when 
dry, rubbed or beat out, placed in papers or boxes, and properly 
labeled. 



PRESERVING SEED. 

When flower-seed are to be preserved longer than the usual 
period, or when to be sent to a great distance, if placed in cotton, 
saw-dust, or dry sand, they may be preserved for any reasonable 
time. 



14 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



MANURES FOR HOT-BEDS AND PITS. 

Horse-manure is generally used for forming hot-beds. Bark is 
only preferable to manure because the substance which undergoes 
the process of putrid fermentation requires longer time to decay. 
Hence it is found useful for hot-beds or pits, as it requires to be 
seldomer moved or renewed than any other substance. Leaves, 
especially those of the oaks, come nearest to bark, and have the 
additional advantage that, when perfectly rotten, like manure, 
they form an excellent compost. Recent stable manure requires 
to be in ridges or beds a month, and turned over several times, 
before it is fit for this purpose. Tan and leaves also require a 
month. Wood-ashes are often mixed with the manures used in 
hot-beds, and, by some, are supposed to promote the steadiness 
and duration of their heat, and, at least, to revive it if some- 
what decayed. Tan is also used for the same purpose, and, if 
mixed in proportion of one-third to two of manure, it will form 
a more durable and less violent heat than a bed composed wholly 
of manure. 



HOT-BED OR PIT. 

The hot-bed or pit is an important and necessary appendage to 
the flower-garden, and should never be omitted if room can be 
spared and an elegible site obtained. Many tender varieties of 
plants can be safely kept in an ordinary pit through the severest 
winters. Beside enabling the Amateur to save many valuable 
plants which would otherwise be lost from the effects of frost, if 
the spring should prove backward or unfavorable to the sowing 
of annual flower-seed, this difficulty may be readily overcome by 
the aid of a small pit, thereby enabling him to be fully prepared 
to meet any emergency which may present itself. Many plants, 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 15 

whose propagation in the open ground is attended with difficulty, 
can be successfully multiplied by the use of the pit or hot-bed. To 
construct a pit of six feet wide, five feet long, two feet deep at the 
top, and one foot deep at bottom, double-cased all round, to set 
six inches in the ground, would cost complete $15, and, with ordi- 
nary care, would last several years, and in which seventy-five 
medium-sized plants, in pots from three to six inches each, can be 
kept as securely, if not in a better condition, than in a green-house ; 
for the heat of the pit, with proper attention, could be kept more 
regular. In many gardens, the entire cost would be saved the 
first season. The pit should have a southern exposure. Tan or 
saw-dust should be placed between the outer and inner cases, 
which will keep out the frost. Sifted coal-ashes, in theabscenceof 
manure, should be placed in the bottom to the depth of six inches. 
In mild weather, the sash should be raised to admit air, but care 
should be taken to close up the pit on the approach of frost. Wa- 
ter the plants sparingly, and do not give them an over supply, or 
you may have an accumulation of dampness which cannot be 
easily counteracted, and which, if not removed, will seriously in- 
jure the plants. If the green-fly should make his appearance in 
the pit, place a few live coals in a pan at the bottom and a hand- 
ful of tobacco-leaves over the same, closing up the pit to keep in 
the smoke. Let the pit remain closed for one hour, and these 
troublesome pests will readily be exterminated. After the ex- 
piration of an hour, remove the sash and give air. Fumigation 
should only be done in clear open weather. 

If desirable, the pit can be so constructed that it can be taken 
apart without injury, in the spring, and housed until is again re- 
quired in the fall. This can be effected by having hooks and 
staples fixed at each corner, at bottom and top, on the inside, (in- 
stead of the usual manner of nailing,) which will hold it securely 
together. Pits constructed on this plan are frequently resorted to 
where the grounds are limited. In very cold weather, the sash 
should be covered with shutters, or some other article, which will 
keep the frost from them. A roller, made fast at the top of the 



16 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

pit and worked by pullies, to which matting or carpet is attached, 
will serve for this purpose. 



GARDEN TOOLS. 

Every well-regulated garden should be supplied with the fol- 
lowing tools, viz: Spade, shovel, rake, scuffle-hoe, budding and 
pruning-knife, syringe, snip-shears, garden-trowel, small and large 
watering-pot, small saw, and hatchet. Where the grounds are ex- 
tensive, others will be necessary. Stakes, from one to five feet in 
length, and of different thickness, should always be kept on hand; 
together with cotton-twist, bass-matting, nails, tacks, and leather, 
for securing vines and other running plants to trelleses, pillars, 
&c. Leather should alone be employed for securing vines and 
other climbing plants, as it is in all respects preferable to twinei 
for the latter, on becoming wet, shrink and injures the plant. 

I 

/ 

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS. 

Neatness and order are always indispensable in a flower-garden, 
and when not secured, neither the beauty nor variety of the plants 
will compensate for their abscence. In order to secure theso im- 
portant requisites, the following suggestions should be strictly 
adhered to, viz : 

1. Perform every operation in the proper season and in the best 
manner. This is to be acquired in part by practice and partly 
also by reflection. For example : In spading up a piece of ground, 
it is a common practice with some persons to throw the weeds and 
stones on the spaded ground, or on the adjoining walk, with the 
intention of gathering them up afterwards. A better way is to 
have a wheel-barrow, box, or basket, in which to place the weeds, 
stones, and other extraneous matter, as they are picked up out 
of the ground. Some persons, in planting or weeding, throw 
down all weeds, stones, &c, with a view to pick them up or rake 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 17 

them off together afterwards. It is better to have a basket or 
box, either common or subdivided, in which to hold in one part 
the plants to be set out, and in the other the extraneous matter. 

2. Complete every part of an operation as you proceed, and 
finish one job before beginning another. 

3. In leaving off work, always place the tools where you can 
readily find them when wanted. 

4. Keep a vigilant watch for weeds, leaves, or other unsightly 
objects, and remove them to the compost heap. 

5. In removing a plant, be careful to remove at the same time 
all roots, stems, leaves, or whatever else is of no further use or 
may appear slovenly. 

6. Attend at all times to tools, keeping them clean, sharp, and 
in perfect order. See particularly that each is placed in its proper 
situation, both in winter and summer, thereby preventing their 
exposure to dampness and rust, which greatly impair their use- 
fulness. 

7. Allow no blanks in box-edgings, beds, rows, &c, and keep 
the first cut to the utmost nicety. 

8. Keep the shapes of all plants filled with wood according to 
its kind, and let their training be in the first style of perfection. 

9. Keep all walks in perfect form, whether raised or flat, free 
from weeds, dry, and well rolled. 

10. See that all plants are securely staked, to prevent their 
breakage from an overgrowth of wood or by high winds. K the 
stakes be painted green, they may partially be hid, and will serve 
to improve their appearance and preserve them. DT placed on the 
touth side of the plant, it will serve in some measure to protect it 
from the burning rays of the sun. 



WATERING GARDENS. 



In general, this is only requisite when plants are first set out, 
or in very dry seasons. As ailment to plants in a growing state, 



18 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

for keeping under insects, and to cleanse the leaves, it may at 
times, however, become necessary. All watering should be done 
in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to 
the roots. In which case, plants in a growing state may be 
watered at any time, if the earth be removed from the surface 
to the depth of four or six inches, and a bowl formed around the 
plant. Pour the water in the bowl, and as soon as it settles, 
replace the earth, which will prevent the ground from baking, 
as is usually the case where the ordinary method is resorted to. 
When applying water to the tops or leaves of plants, the rose 
of the watering-pot or the syringe should be employed. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 19 



CLASSIFICATION. 



Having described in the preceding pages all the essential par- 
ticulars, in detail, for choosing soil, sowing and. gathering seed, 
transplanting, and general directions for the management of the 
flower-garden, we shall endeavor to embrace in the following 
classification all of the principal, plants -proper for the garden, 
with intimations of their nature, growth, and various methods 
of propagation, explained under their respective heads, and con- 
sisting of — 

Tender annuals, Perennials, 

Half-hardy annuals, Bulbous and tube-rooted plants, 

Hardy annuals, Deciduous plants, and 

Biennials, Evergreens, 

In examining the catalogue of the seedsman, with a view of 
making a selection of such plants as will afford a proficiency and 
variety of bloom to the flower-garden, the Amateur becomes con- 
fused with the fine botanical names and the indefinite directions 
given for their culture, and often selects those of inferior merit. 
In order to assist him in making a judicious selection, we shall 
endeavor to give an accurate description of each plant embraced 
in the following lists, giving both the botanical and common 
name, time of flowering, color, and habit of each plant. The 
time of flowering, hardiness, directions for sowing seed, &c, cor- 
respond to the meredian of Washington. Due allowance being 
made for different latitudes, they will be found to be equally ap- 
plicable. Slight variations may occur in some of these particu- 
lars, owing to position or cultivation, but those designated will 
generally be found to be correct. 

Annual flowers. — All plants of this tribe are only of one sum- 
mer's duration ; some of but two or three months. Annuals may 



20 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

be divided into tender, half-hardy, and hardy varieties. The seed 
of tender annuals, such as the Cypress Vine, Thunbergia, Sensi- 
tive Plant, &c, should be sown about the first of June. The 
half-hardy annuals, such as Balsam, Cockscomb, Marigold, &c, 
should be sown about the middle of May. Hardy annuals, 
such as Candytuft, Clarkia, &c, may be sown in April or May. 
If sown, however, early in the autumn, they will grow large 
enough for transplanting early in the spring, if slightly protected 
through the winter. By this method, they will produce their 
flowers much earlier. 

Biennial flowers. — These are principally of two years' dura- 
tion, at least in their continuance in good perfection, being raised 
from seed sown in the spring for flowering the year following. 
In some varieties they most wholly decay, top and root; and, in 
others, although they continue longer, generally become of a weak 
and straggling growth, and do not flower in equal perfection. 
Some few may be continued in a perennial state by cuttings, lay- 
ers, &c. 

Perennial flowers. — The plants of this class are of several or 
many years' continuance in the same roots, and consist of fibrous, 
fleshy, and in some tube-rooted kinds. Many sorts are raised 
from seed, but generally from slips, suckers, layers, and cuttings. 
They are very oramental and handsome flowei*ing plants, shooting 
up their flower-stems in the spring, flowering in their proper 
season, and loosing their tops, wholly or in part, in autumn; and, 
the roots continuing, flower in that order annually. The roots 
of the herbaceous (fibrous) varieties should be divided in the 
spring. Some kinds may be divided in August, after flowering, 
when the roots will make fine plants and flower strongly the en- 
suing year. Suckers should be taken up when the plant is begin- 
ing to grow. Layers, cuttings, and seed of this class of plants 
may be grown successfully by the methods described under their 
respective heads. 

Bulbous and tube-rooted flowers. — These bloom at intervals 
during the spring, summer, and fall, and being distinct in char- 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 21 

acter and beautiful in appearance, add much to the beauty of the 
garden. They are all perennials in root, which, in the greater 
part, are bulbous — onion like — either solid, as in tulips and some 
other sorts, or tunnicated, or of several involving coats, as in the 
onion and lily; and some sorts are composed of many fleshy 
scales. The tuberous roots are solid, knobbed, and fleshy, either 
single or many in a cluster, and in some many smaller tubers 
connected in a head. All of which are durable or perpetuated in 
the roots by offsets, and some from seed. They delight in a rich 
sandy loam. Those requiring support, such as the Tuberose, 
Dahlia, &c, should be securely staked, to prevent their being 
broken off by high winds. The depth which each variety should 
be planted will be found indicated by the figures attached to each 
in the list, signifying inches, always measuring from the top 
of the bulb. The summer and fall-flowering roots should be 
preserved through the winter in dry sand or saw-dust, in a tem- 
perature rather under than above what is natural to them. The 
spring-flowering varieties can be preserved in the same manner 
through the summer, but, for convenience, they may be kept 
loose in boxes or papers, free from dampness, till the season 
of planting. The offsets should be separated when the parent 
root is taken up. As a general rule, it will be found advisable 
to plant offsets of all the spring-flowering bulbs as soon as sepa- 
rated; for, if kept long out of the ground, they become exhausted 
and perish. As soon as the tops have died down, bulbs may be 
taken up and separated. Hyacinths, Tulips, and Crocuses, will 
flower much stronger and produce a greater abundance of offsets 
if taken up every alternate year. Never purchase bulbs which 
have made much growth before planting, for they are always 
weakened, and generally will not flower the first season. The 
spring-flowering varieties should be planted in October and No- 
vember, and the summer and fall-flowering kinds in May or June. 
Deciduous plants. — This class of plants defoliate or shed their 
leaves in autumn. Their fine foliage and the beauty of their flow- 
ers add greatly to the appearance of the garden. They are all 



22 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

perennials in root, generally tardy, and may be propagated from 
cuttings, layers, seed, suckers, and grafting. This highly es- 
teemed family of plants embrace numerous varieties. All dicidu- 
ous plants should be planted out as early in the spring as the 
ground will permit, and before the buds begin to swell. They 
may be planted, however, with some few exceptions, in the fall, 
after the leaves have fallen. They delight in a rich light loam. 
Evergreens. — These are generally employed for ornamental 
purposes, and comprise many varieties. They are of a hardy na- 
ture, retaining their foliage through the winter, making them 
very desirable. They should be planted out in March or April. 
If carefully taken up with balls of earth, evergreens may be suc- 
cessfully planted in any season of the year, damp and moist 
weather being selected for that purpose. The plants should be 
kept out of the ground as short a time as possible. Most varieties 
of evergreens may be propagated by cuttings, and some from seed. 
In all seasons, situations, and soils, the plants should have a plen- 
tiful supply of water as soon as the earth is filled in around the 
roots. If this precaution is observed, the soil is carried down by 
the water, and the crevices about the roots become filled. After 
the water has settled, care should be taken to have the hole filled 
up even with the surface of the ground, to prevent the roots from 
being exposed. Ordinary garden soil will serve for evergreens, 
but if a rapid growth be desired, it should be moderately enriched 
with decomposed manure. Mulching is sometimes desirable. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



23 



CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED. 

The following catalogue embrace such only as have proved to be 
worthy of cultivation, comprising the best varieties, either emi- 
nently beautiful or fragrant, and such as will give gaiety, bright- 
ness, and profusion of bloom to the flower-garden. The first flow- 
ering is only designated* many plants continuing to bloom until 
destroyed by frost. 

J ^©* > The asterisk (*) denotes climbers, f Tender annuals. J Half-hardy 
annuals. \ Hardy annuals, b Biennials, p Perennials. 



Botanical name. 



Common name. 




Habit. 



Ageratum Mexicanum,±. 
" odorata alba| 



Mexican Ageratum, , 
Sweet-scented Agera- 
tum. 
Mullen Pink, 



p Agrostemma,§ 

Alyssum maritinum,g....jSweet Alvsum 

p li saxatile,g (Rock, or Golden Alys- 

! sum. 

Alonsoa incisifolia,'f Nettle-leaved Alonsoa 

p Althse sinesis,J iChinese Hollyhock, ....| 

Amarantus hypochondri-|Prince' s Feather, I 

acus.£ 

Amarantus superbus,§...|Suberb " " I 

caudatus,g... Love-lies-bleeding, | 

Ammobium alatum, J IWinged Ammobium, . . j 

Anagallisindica,f jlndian Anagallis, 

b Antirrhinum, § (Snap-dragon, 

p Aquilegia vulgaris, §....| Columbine j 

Argemone grandiflora,J. Great-flowered Arge- 
mone. 

Naked-flower' d Azalea! 

Golden Bartonia, I 

jSwan Daisy, 

Blue Amethyst, j 

Scarlet Tassel-flower, 

Rough podded Calam- 

! pelis. 
Calandrinia grandiflora^jGreat-flowered . Calan- 

I drinia. 



Azalea nudiflora,§. 
Bartonia aurea,f... 
Brachycome iberidifoliag 
Browallia elata,f.... 
Caccalia coccinuea, J 
pCalampelis scaber,*|... 



July, 
July, 

June, 
June, 



July, 
July, 
July, 

June, 
July, 
June, 
July, 
June, 
May, 
Aug. 

June, 
Aug. 
July, 
July, 
July, 
Aug. 



[Pale blue,. lj feet. 
White, if feet. 



peep red,.. H feet. 

I White, 1 foot. 

j Yellow, jlO in. 



jScarlet, ... 
! Various, .. 
[Pur. crim. 

park red, . 
|Blood red, 

White, 

Blue, 

Various, ... 
Various, ... 
While, .... 



[Pink, .... 
JYellow, . 
IChangeable 

iBlue, 

Or. scarlet, 
lOrange, .... 



li feet. 
5 feet. 
5 feet. 

4 feet. 
4 feet. 
2 feet. 
Dwarf. 

Various 
2 feet. 

2 feet. 

3 feet. 
1 foot. 
8 in. 
1* feet. 
if feet. • 
10 feet. 



June, Rosy lilac, . 2 feet. 





24 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 


Botanical name. 


Common name. 


a 
"fl a 

O — ' 

o 

pq 


Color. 


Habit. 


Calendula officinalis,?.... 
p Callistemme hortensis,g 

Calliopsis tinctoria,§ 

" nigra speciosag 
b Campanula medium, §... 
b ' ' persicafolia, \ 
b ' ' pyramidalis| 

" speculum, £.. 

" Loreyii,§ .... 
Cana Indica,")" 


Pot Marigold, 


July, 
Aug. 
June, 
June, 
Aug. 
June, 
June, 
July, 
July, 
Aug. 
July, 

July, 
July, 
June, 
Aug. 
July, 
July, 
June, 
June, 

July, 

June, 
June, 
June, 
July, 
July, 
July, 
June, 

June, 
June, 
June, 


Deepora'ge 
Various, ... 
Yel.&crim. 

Various, ... 
Various, ... 
Various, ... 
Blue, 

Blue &wh'e 

Scarlet, .... 

White and 

green. 

Blue, 

Yellow, .... 
Various, ... 
Pur. pink,. 
Yellow, .... 
Yellow, .... 
Yellow, .... 
Saffron, .... 

Various, ... 

Light pur., 
Pink, 

Rose, 

Blue, 

Blue, 

Pink pur.,. 
White and 

purple. 
Blue & pur. 
Purple, .... 
Blue, 


10 ft. 
Vai-ious 

2 J feet. 
2| feet. 
2| feet. 

3 feet. 
6 feet. 

1 foot. 
Dwarf. 

5 feet. 
10 feet. 

U feet. 
l| feet. 
1\ feet. 
3 feet. 
l£ feet. 

2 feet. 
2 feet. 

2 feet. 

From 1 
to 4 ft.a 
1 foot. 
\\ feet. 
l| feet. 

6 inch. 

3 inch. 
3£ ft.6 
1 foot. 

1 foot. 

1 foot. 

2 feet, c 




Dark showy Coreopsis 

Peach-leaf Campanula, 
Pyramidal Bell-flower, 
Venus' Looking-glass. 
Lorey's Bell-flower,.... 
Indian Shot-plant, 
Balloon Vine, 


Cardiospermum halicaca- 

bum.*J 
p Catananche cperulea,J.. 
p " lutea,J 


Blue Catananche, 

Yellow Catananche,... 
Cockscomb, 


Celosia christata, j 


Centaurea Americana, §.. 

" sudveolens,§.. 

" benedicta,§ ... 
Chriseis Californica, \ 
" crocea,g 


American Centaurea, .. 
Yellow Sweet Sultan, .. 
Blessed Thistle, 


California Poppy, 

Saffron-colored Cali- 
fornia Poppy. 

Garden Chrysanthe- 
mum. 

Beautiful Clarkia, 

Elegant Clarkia, 

Great-flow' d Clarkia,. 

Great-flowered Cleome 
Two-colored Collinsia, 

Great-flow' d Collinsia, 

Sky-blue Commelina, . 


Chrysanthemum corona- 
ria,_g 

" elegans,§ 


" pulchella,f.... 
Collinsia bicolor,£." 


" grandiflora,g... 


a. The small varieties possess and interest which is peculiar to them- 
selves, and look more like Daisies or China Asters than Chrysanthemums, 
embracing various colors, and are perfectly hardy. 

b. This plant is very curious in its structure, as well as beautiful, but its 
odor is very unpleasant. 

c. The roots of this plant are tuberous, and may be preserved through 
the winter in the same manner as described for the preservation of spring- 
flowering bulbs, and will make finer plants than those raised from seed . 

i — 1 





AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 25 

CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 


Botanical name. 


Common name. 


a 

a a 

O — ' 

o 
3 


Color. 


Habit. 


Coreopsis Drummondii,? 
'' mi nor alba, 'i 

,6 


Drummond's Coreopsis 
Dwarf Convolvulus,... 


June, 
July, 
July, 
July, 

July, 
July, 
July, 

July, 
July, 
June, 
June, 
June, 
July, 
June, 

June, 
May, 
July, 
July, 

July, 
July, 
June, 
June, 
July, 
July, 

June, 
June, 

Sept., 
July, 
July, 
Aug. 
Aug. 
June, 
June, 
June, 
July, 


Yellow, .... 
Various, ... 
Various, ... 
White, 

Orange, .... 
Pale yellow 
Various, ... 

Pink, , , 
Various, ... 

Blue, 

Blue, 

Blue, 

Light blue, 
Various, ... 

Various, ... 
Various, ... 
White, 
White or 

pink. 
Varigated,. 

Blue, 

Purple, .... 
White, , . . 
Light yel., 
White and 

brown. 
Purple, .... 
Orange, .... 

Varigated, 
Purple, .... 

Blue, 

Crim. & yel 
Crim. & yel 
Varigated, 
Pale rose, . . 
Blue &wh'e 


1 foot. 
1 foot. - 
12 feet. 

1 foot. 

3 feet. 
18 inch. 
2h feet. 

1£ feet. 
2h feet. 
6"feet. 

4 feet. 

2 feet. 
4 feet. 
2|feet.a 

Dwarf. - 

1 foot. 

2 feet. 

6 inch. — 

4 in. 

2 feet. 

3 feet. 

3 feet. 

4 feet. 

2 feet. 

15 feet. 
1 J feet. 

3 feet. 
1 foot. 
1 foot. 
1| feet. 
l£ feet, 

1 foot. 

2 feet. 
2 feet. 
1 foot. 


Dwarf White Morning 
Glory. 

Purple-eyed Crepis, .... 
Great-flowered Lark- 
spur. 

Branching Larkspur, .. 


p Delphinium grandiflo- 
rum.§ 

" consolida,§ .. 

p " elatum,§ 

p " Barlowii,g... 
p " flexuosum, .. 
p " azureum, .... 
b Dianthus carayophyl- 

lus.g 
p Dianthus Chinensis,§... 
p " barbatus, £.... 
p " superbus, §.... 
p ' ' plumarius, \ . . 

p " alpinus, \ 

Didiscus cnerulea,§ 


Barlow's Larkspur,.... 
Chinese Pink, 




Superb Pink, 


Feathered, or Pheas- 
ant-eye Pink. 
Alpine, or Dwarf Pink, 
Sky-blue Didiscus, . ... 

Great Yellow Foxglove 
Woolly-flowered Fox- 
glove. 
Purple Hyacinth Bean, 

Varigated Euphorbia, 

Painted Gaillardia, ... . 
Two-colored Gillardia, 
Three-colored Gilia,... 
Slender-flowered Gilia 


p Digitalis purpurea,?.... 
p " alba, ? 


p " ochroleuca,? . 

Dolichos labbab,*f 

Erysimum peroffskia- 

num.§ 
Euphorbia variegata,J... 
Eutoca viscida,? 


Gilia tricolor,? 


" tenuiflora,? 




Godetia Lindleyana,g....JLindley's Primrose,... 


a. Dianthus. — " The flower of God, or divine flower." — Loudon. 



__ . 

26 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 


Botanical name. 


Common name. 


a 

a a 

O ■■-< 

o 

5 


Color. 


Habit. 


Godetia rubicunda,? ,,, 
Hibiscus vesicarius,J 

Helichrysum bractea- 

tum.| 
Helichrysum michran- 

thum.g 
h Hesperis matronalis,£... 
I berus umbellata, § 


Dense-flow' d Primrose 

African Hibiscus, 

Marsh Hibiscus, 


July, 
July, 
June, 
July, 
Aug. 
July, 

July, 

May, 
June, 
June, 
June, 
June, 
July, 
Jnly, 
July, 
July, 
July, 
July, 

June, 

June, 
July, 
July, 
July, 
June, 
July, 
July, 
July, 
June, 
June, 
Aug. 
Aug. 
May, 
May, 

May, 

1 


Purple, .,, 

Pink, 
White, 
Yellow, .... 

White, 

Various, ... 

White, , , 
White, ... 
Pale purple 
Various,.... 
Scarlet, .... 
Scarlet, .... 
Scarlet, .... 
Various, ... 
White and 

pink. 
Various, ... 

Yel. white, 
Scarlet, .... 
Scarlet, .... 
Scarlet, .... 
Orange, ... 

Blue, 

Shad.white 

Blue, 

Rosy crim. 
White, 
Rosy lilac, . 
Yellow, .... 
Various, ... 
White, 

Pink, 


lj feet. 

1 foot. 

2 feet. 

4 feet. 
6 feet. 
2 feet. 

2 feet. 

1J feet. 
1 foot. 
] foot. 
1 foot. 
6 in. 

1 foot. - 
15 feet. - 

5 feet. 
10 feet. 

5 feet. _ 

2 feet. 

1 foot. 

1 foot. 

3 feet. - 
3 feet. 

3 feet. 
20 feet.a 
1 J feet. 
3 feet. 

2 feet. 
2 feet. 

2 feet. 

3 feet. 
3 feet. 
U feet. 
Trail' g 

Trail' g 


Halbert-lea' d Hibiscus, 
Golden Eternal Flower 

Large Everlasting- 
Flower. 
Dame's Violet, 


Bitter Candytuft, 

Rocket Candytuft, 
Tenore's Candytuft,... 

Cypress Vine, 


" aniara,£ 




Impatiens balsamina,f ... 
b " elegans,^ 


Tree Cypress, 


Lathyrus odoratus, :; 'g.... 
Lavateria trimestris,§.... 

Leptosiphon androssa- 

ceus.§ 
Limnanthus Douglasii,§. 


Scarlet Morning Glory 
Sweet Pea, 


Common Lavateria, ... 

Androsace-like Leptos- 
iphon. 
Douglas' Limnanthus, 
Scarlet Cardinal flower 
Fulgent " "... 
Splendid " "... 
Brick-red Loasa 


Lupinus Hortwegii,t 

" Cruikshankii,f. 

Malope grandiflorum,§... 
" lutea,f 


Cruikshank's Lupin,.. 


Grand-flow' g Malope,. 
White Malope, 


Fragrant Martynea, ... 

Yellow " 




Mesembryanthemum 

chrystallinum.f 
Mesembryanthemum 
chrystallinum glabrumf 


Dew Plant, 




a. This plant is very curious in its structure. If slightly touched, 
a poison, causing a painful blister, which does not pass off for seve 


ejecting 
•al days. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 


27 


CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 




Botanical name. 


Common name. 


bD 

a 

a a 

o "« 

o 

s 


Color. 


Habit. 






June, 


Blush, 


6 in. 




July, 


Yel. spot'd 


6 in. 


' ' cardinalis, f Scarlet Monkey-flower, 


July, 


Scarlet, .... 


6 in. 


" moschatus,f ... Musk-scented Monkey- 


July, 


Yellow, .... 


6 in. 


flower. 










Aug. 


Various, ... 


2 feet.a 


I velofPeru. 








" longiflora,f....|Long-flowered " ...i Aug. 


White, 


2 feet. 


" tricolor,! |Three-colored " ...! Aug. 


3-colored,.. 


2 feet. 


" alba,f White " ...| Aug. 


White, 


2 feet. 


MaurandiaBarclayana*f Barclay's Maurandia,J Aug. 




6 feet. 


" rosea,*| Rose-colored " ..J Aug. 




6 feet. 


" albaflora, *f.. White-flowered " ... 


Aug. 


White, 


6 feet. 




July, 


Yellow, .... 


5 feet, 


" charantia,f . 




July, 


Yellow, .... 


5 feet. 




Opposite-leaved Nerno- 


May, 


Blue, 


6 in. - 




T 

June, 


Blue, 


8 in. 




phila. 








Ear-leaved Nemophila, j June, 


White 


8 in. 


" atomaria,§.... 


Dotted-flowered " ...| June, 


Purple, 


8 in. 


" grandiflora,§. 


Great-flowered " ...j June, 


Blue, 


8 in. 






Light blue 


2 feet. 




Trailing Nolana, : July, 


Blue 


3 in. 


6 (Enothera grandiflora, j 


Great-flowered Even-| July, 
ing Primrose. 


Yellow, .... 


4 feet. 


" purpurea, J .. 


Purple-flowered " ...j July, 


Purple, 


2 J feet. 


" nocturna,-f .. 


Night-smelling Prim-i July, 


Yellow, .... 


2 feet. 


" tretaptera,§ . 


White-flowered Even-j July, 
ing Primrose. 


White, 


1 foot. 


b " longiflora,§.. 


Long-flowered " ...i July, 


Yellow, .... 


3 feet. 


Papaver somniferurn,J... 

Petunia phcenecia, J 

' ' nictagynaflora, J 




June, 
June, 


White, 


2 feet. 




Orange, ... 
Purple, 


2jfeet.6 

Spread c ~ 




June, 


Large-flow' g Petunia, . 


June, 


White, , , , 


ljfeet.c 


a. If the roots of these plants, though classed as tendt 


>r annuals, 


oe taken 


up and preserved through the winter as described for 


bulbous roots, they 


will flower perennially. 






b. May be propagated by dividing the roots as soon a 


3 the foliage is dead. 


The plants from seed do not flower until the third year. 






c. From these two species have been produced innun 


lerable varieties, all 


of which can be propagated from cuttings or layers. 


Seedlings vary from 


the mother plant. 







28 THE AMATEUKS' GUIDE 

CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 



Botanical name. 



Common name. 



pq 



Color. 



Habit. 



Phlox Drummondii,?. 

P 

V 

P 

P 

P 

V 

p 



sabulata,?. 

suaveolens,J 

nivalis, f 

rnacalata,? , 

Listonia,? , 

"Van Houteii,? , 

Wilderii,? , 

Portulacca splendens,?.., 
" thellusoni,?.. 

" lutea, I 

" alba,? 

^Primula veris,f 

p " elatior,? 

p " farinosa,? 

p " nivalis,? 

p " Scotica, § 

Reseda odorata,? 



Sapiglossis atropurpu 
rea.f 

p Senecio carnea, \ 

p " elegans,? 

p " alba,§ 

Scabiosa atropurpurea,?. 
Schizanthus pinnatus,t- 



" Prestii,f. 

" Chiliensis,f. 

" humilis,f 

Silene armeria alba,g., 



" pendala,? 

" armeria, | 

Schizopetalon Walkerii,? 



Tagetes patula,f 

" erecta,f 

Thunbergia alata,*f. 



Drummond's Phlox 

Moss-pink 

Sweet-scented 

Snow-white 

Flora's Boquet 

Lady Liston's 

Van Houtte's 

Wilder' s 

Splended Portulacca, . . 

Scarlet " 

Yellow " 

White " 

Cowslip, 

Oxlip Primrose, 

Bird's-eye Primrose, .., 

Snowy Primrose, - 

Scotch Primrose, 

Sweet-scented Mignon- 
ette. 

Tongue-shaped Sapi- 
glossis. 

Flesh-colored Jacobea 

Elegant " .. 

White " .. 

Sweet Scabious, 

Pinnate-leaved Schiz 
anthus. 

Priest's Schizanthus,. 

Chilian " 

Dwarf " 

Lobel' s White-flowered 
Catchfly. 

Pendulous-flow' d 

Lobel' s 

Walker's Schizopeta- 
lon. 

French Marigold, 

African " 

Winged Thunbergia,.. 



July, 

April 

June, 

May, 

June, 

June, 

June, 

Aug. 

July, 

July, 

July, 

July, 

May, 

Mar. 

June, 

April 

June, 

June, 

July, 

June, 
June, 
June, 

July, 
Aug. 

Aug. 
Aug. 
Aug. 
June, 

June, 
June, 
July, 

July, 
July, 
July, 



Various, 
Pink, ... 
White, . 
White, . 
Pur. red, 
Red, ....' 
Red & wh'e 
Deep red,. 
Rosy crim 
Scarlet, ... 
Yellow, ... 
White, .... 
Pale yellow 
Yellow, . 

Red, 

Purple, . . 

Red, 

Greenish 

Dark velvet 

Flesh color 
Purple, . 

White, . 
Various, 
Lilac, .. 



White, 
Pink, .. 
Pink, .. 
Pink, .. 



Pink, .. 
Pink, .. 
White, 



Various, .. 
Various, .. 
Buff, 



1 foot. 
6 in.a 

2 feet. 
6 in. 

2 feet. 
\\ feet. 
if feet. 

3 feet. 
6 in. 
6 in. 
6 in. 
6 in. 
6 in. 

foot. 
6 in. 
6 in. 
6 in. 

1 foot. 

\\ feet, 

\\ feet. 
H feet. 
H feet. 

2 "feet. 
2 feet. 

2 feet. 
2 feat. 
1 foot. 
18 in. 

1 foot. 
18 in. 
1 foot. 

18 in. 
18 in. 
16 feet. 



a. Phlox should be shaded when in a frozen state, as the flower-buds are 
formed in autumn, and are injured by the sun in winter and spring. They 
may be propagated by dividing the roots after blooming for early flowering 
sorts, and in the spring for the late ones, and also from cuttings and seed. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 29 

CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 




Thunbergia alata Fry- Fryer's Orange-flower-i July, (Orange, 



erii.*f 
Tropajolum peregri- 

num.*| 
Verbena chamsedifolia,? 



ed Thunbergia. 
Canary Bird-flower, 



Germander-leav' d Ver- 
vain. 

b Viola tricolor,? JHeartease, 

b " odorata, § iSweet-scented Violet, . . 

b " grandiflora,g Great-flowered " ... 

Zinnia elegans alba, J lElegant White Zinnia, 



6 feet. 



coccinea,J 

aurea,J 

purpurea, J , 



Scarlet Zinnia,. 

Golden 

Purple, 



July, (Canary, ... 12 feet. 

May, Various, ... [Trail' ga 

April (Various, ...|8 in. 

April iBlue, >6 in. 

April 'Various, ...16 in. 
July, j White, ... 
July, Scarlet, .. 

July, JGold, 

July, jPurple,... 



2 feet. 
2 feet. 
2 feet. 
2 feet. 



a. From this old and much-esteemed flower have been raised all the 
present splended varieties, embracing nearly every color. If the plants are 
covered in October with long manure to the depth of six inches, they may 
be preserved through the winter. Young plants are preferable. 



30 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



BULBOUS AND TUBE-ROOTED FLOWERS. 



Botanical name. 



Common name. 



Ch 



2.5 



Color. 



Amaryllis formossima, 

Dahlia, 

Ferraria pavonia, 

Fritillaria imperialis, .. 

" Persica, .... 

" melegaris, .. 

Galanthus nivalis, 

Gladiolus communis,.. 

Hyacinthus, 

Irandia monogynia, ... 

Iris xiphium, 

" xiphiodes, 

Lilium tigrinum, 

japouicum, ... 
Narcissus, 



Paeona officinalis, 

" tenufolia, 

" Siberica, 

" Whitleji, 

" Reevesii, 

" moutan, , 

' ' moutan pa'pa- 

veracia. 

Polianthus tuberosa, ... 

Ranunculus Asiaticus, 

Tulipa, 



Jacobean Lily, 

Dahlia, 

Mexican Tiger Flower, 

Crown Imperial, 

Persian Lily, 

Chequered Lily, 

Snow Drop, 

Corn Flag, 

Hyacinth, 

Crocus, 

Spanish Iris, 

English Irish, 

Tiger-spotted Lily, .... 

Japan Lily, 

Common Daffodil, 



Double Crims'n Paeona 
Fennel-leaved Paeona,. 

Siberian Paeona, 

Whitlej's Paeona, 

Reeve's Paeona, 

Tree Paeona, 

Poppy-flowered Tree 
Paeona. 

Tuberose, 

Asiatic Ranunculus,... 
Tulip, 



June, 
June, 



Oct., 



Oct., 



June, 
June, 
Oct., 

Sept. 



June, 
May, 
Oct., 



In 
4 
2 
2 
4 
4 
2 
2 
3 
4 
1 
3 
3 
2 

Aug. 2 
April 4 



July, 
Aug. 
July, 
April 
May, 
a 

M.ar., 
July, 
April 
Mar., 

June, 

a 

Au<r. 



June, 

May, 
June, 



Sept. 
July, 

May, 



Deep red. 
Various. 



Purple. 

Various. 

White. 

Various. 
<< 

Various. 



Orange. 
Various. 
White and 
yellow. a 
Crimson, b 

" 6 
White.6 

" b 
Purple.6 
Various. c 
White.c 

White. 

Various. 

Various. 



a. The double variety is better known as "Butter and Eggs." Some 
species (Jonquille) are various shades of yellow. The scent of some varie- 
ties is said to produce dangerous effects upon the nerves. 

b. These may be propagated by dividing the roots (in September) into as 
many pieces as they are tubers with buds. 

c. The Tree Paeonas can be propagated from seed, suckers, layers, or 
grafting. Long manure should be placed over Paeonas in the fall for pro- 
tection, and which will tend greatly to increase the strength of their bloom. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 31 


DECIDUOUS PLANTS. 


Botanical name. 


Common name. 


bfi 

1 a 

O -H 


bC 

° 9: a 
■B 2 2 


Color. 






s 






Double-flowering Rose 


June 


Seed and Pink. 




Campion. 




suckers. 


" alba, 


White-flowering Rosej " 
Campion. 


" White. 


Amygdalus pnmila plena 


Double-flowering Al-jApril 

mond. 
Double-flower' g Peach " 


Suckers, ... Pink. 
1 




it a 




Ja pa n ese W i nd-fl o wer. 


Sept. 


Cuttings, ..[Pur. red. 




Broad-leaved Birth- 


July 


Cut. & lay. [Purplish 




wort. 




I brown .a 


Bignonia radicans,* 


Scarlet trumphet-flow- 


it 


Cuttings, .'Scarlet. 


" grandiflora,* .. 


er. 
Large-flowered trum- 
phet flower. . 


tt 


" j Yellow. 

! 




Sweet-scented Shrub, . 


June 


Cut. & suck 


Brown. 




Yel. trumphet monthly 
Honeysuckle. 


(< 


Cut. & lay. 


Yellow, b — 


" hirsuta,* .... 


Hairy Honeysuckle,... 


a tt 


it 


Caprifolium periclyme- 


Woodbine Honeysuc- 


<< j " (Pale yel. 


num.* 


kle. 


| low. 


Caprifolium belgicum .* . . . 


Dutch sweet-scented 


» i " Yel. var- 




Honeysuckle. 


igated. 


Caprifolium belgicum 


Dutch monthly sweet-j " j iCreamy 


menstrus.* 


scent' d Honeysuckle! variga'd. 


Ceanothus Americanus, . 


New Jersey Tea, j " |Cuttings, ..jWhite. 


Chionanthus Virginica, . 


Virginia Fringe-Tree, .| " |Budding, ..| 




Alder-leaved Clethra, . 


Aug. Bud. & lay. " 


Cy donia. Japonica, 




May Cut. & sucklBril. red. 




Purple-flowered .La- 


<< Cuttine-s. JPumle. 




burnum. 


i 




Cream-colored Labur- 
num. 


tt 


" iCream. 


" alba, 




Mar. 

tt 


« iPink.c 

» jWhite.c 

i 






* Denotes climbers. 


a. In some catalogues designated "Pipe Vine." 


5. " Caprifolium. — A poetical name, signifying goat-leaf; that is to say a 


leaf which climbs like a goat. — Loudon. 


c. Thrives best in a loamy soil, and greatly admired for their fragarnce. 


i 



32 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

DECIDUOUS PLANTS— Continued. 



Botanical name. 




Color. 



Deutzia scabra,. 



gracalis, 
Diervilla humulis, 



Euonj'mus latifolius, . 



Helesia tretaptera, , 

" diptera, 

Hydrangea hortensis, .... 

" quercifolia, .. 

" Japonica, ... 
Jasniinum officinale,.*... 



Rough-leaved Deutzia. 'May 

Slender Deutzia, " 

Yellow-flowered Bush. July 

Honeysuckle. 
Broad-leaved Euony-June 

mus. 

Snow-drop Tree, JApril 

Silver Bell Tree, j " 

Chang' ble Hydrangea, July 
Oak-leaved Hydrangea ' 
Japan Hydrangea, 



Common White Jas-,June 
) mine. 
Kerria japonica, IJapan Globe-flower, ...i 



Cuttings & 
layers. 



Cuttings & 
seed. 



Cut. & suck 

it 

It 

Cut. &suck 



White. 

a 
Yellow, a 

Green.6 

White. 
<< 

Lt. pink. 

a 

tc 
White. 



Lagerstrcemia Indica, . 
regime, . 



Lavandula spicata, ... 

Ligustrum vulgare, ... 

" Japonica,. 

Lonicera Tartarica, .. 

" alpigena, .... 



Lycium barbarum,*. 
Magnolia conspicua, . 



Indian Crape Myrtle, ...Aug. 
. Oblong-leaved Crapej " 

Myrtle'.. 
. Spike-flow' d Lavander July 

.Common Privet, June 

. Japan Privet, ' 

. Tartarian Honeysuckle! ' 
, Red-berried Honey-i " 

suckle. 
, Willow-leaved Lyciumj " 
White Chinese Magno-J " 

lia. 
Soulange's Purple! " 

Magnolia. 
Chinese Purple Mag-, " 
nolia. 

Swamp Magnolia, ! " 

Rose Accacia, | " 

Spirese Douglasii, iDouglas' Spires, July 

prunifolia plena, .|Double Prune-leaved May 

i Spireme. 
hypericafolia, .... jHyperica-leav' d Spirese June 

bella, [Pretty Spirese, j " 

Reevesii, jReeve's Spireas, j " 



Soulangiana, 



purpurea, 

glauca, .. 
Robinia hispida, . 



" .Yellow. 

Cuttings, ..purple. 
" ' iRed. 

I , i 

" 'Lilac. 
iCut. & seed White. 

ICut. & lay.jPink.c 
" ! Yellow. 

" [Violet. 

IBudding &;Creamy 
; seed. white. 

" iPurple. 



Seed & suck! White. 

Cut. & lay.|Pink. 
" ;Rosvlilac 

" White. 



iPink. 
iWhite. 



a "Diervilla. — A pretty low shrub." — Loudon. 

b. Very desirable for their ornamental berries in autumn. 

c. "Lonicera. — .Comprising the species with a shrubby upright stem, 
neither climbing or prostrate plants." — Loudon. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 33 

DECIDUOUS PLANTS— Continued. 



Botanical name. 



Symphoria racemosa, .... 

' ' glomerata, . . . 

Syringa persica purpurea 



Common name. 



Color. 



" alba, 

vulgaris, 

rosea grandiflora 



" Chinensis, 
Wistaria sinesis, ... 



Clustered Snowberry, . July 
Common Snowberry, 
Purple Persian Lilac,. iMay 

White Persian Lilac, .. | " 
Common Lilac, 
Large-flowered Rose 

Lilac. 
Chinese Lilac, 
Chinese Wistaria, May 



Cut. k lay., Pink. a 
Purple. 



Cuttings & 
suckers. 



Cut. & lay 



'White. 
iLilac. 

jRose. 

Violet, 
Lt.pur.J 



a. The berries of these plants are very ornamental, remaining after the 
leaves have fallen. 

b. Without exception, this is the most magnificient of all deciduous climb- 
ers. It is perfectly hardy, and if the following treatment be resorted to, it 
will flower three times during the season. As soon as the first flowering 
is over, cut off the young shoots to within three or four eyes of the stem 
and deprive the plant of its leaves, and it will bloom again in August. By 
repeating the same process as soon as the second flowering is over, the 
plant will bloom again in October. This treatment does not apply to 
young plants, but only to such as have become well established. 



34 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



EVERGREENS. 



Botanical name. 



Common name. 



o & 



Color. 



Abies communis, f 

" pulcherrima, | 

" Douglasii,t 

Auracaria iinbricata,f... 
Bignonia grandifolia, *f 

Buxus suffrutieosa, 

" arborescens, f .... 

" myrtifolio, 

Caprifolium sempervi- 

rens.*t 
Caprifolium flexuosa,*f. 

" Japonica,*f 

Cedrus deodar, f 

Cypressus thoyoides,f ... 
" semper virensf 

Epigaea repens, 

Gelsemium sempervi- 

rens.*t 
Hedera helix, *f 

" arborea, 

" Hibernica, *f 

Ilex latifolia Japonica, ... 

" opaca, 

" aquifolium, 

" aurea, 

Jasmiuum revolutum,*f 



Norway Spruce, 

European Silver Fir, . 

Douglas' Spruce Fir, 

Chili Pine, 

Large-flowered Trum- 
phet-flower. 

Dwarf Box, 

Large Tree Box, 

Intermediate Box, 

Evergr'n Scar. Month 
ly Honeysuckle. 

Chinese Twining Hon- 
eysuckle. 

Japan Honeysuckle,... 

Deodar Cedar, 

White Cedar, 

Common Evergreen 
Cypress. 

Ground Laurel, 

Evergreen Gelsemium, 



June 



June 



Cuttings. 



Cut. & slips 



Cut. & lay 



Cuttings. 
Cut.& seed 

Cuttings. 



April 
June 



Common Ivy, 

Tree Ivy, 

Irish Ivy, 

Broad-leaVed Japan 
Holly. 

American Holly, 

English Holly, 

Golden-striped Holly, 
Curled-flow' d Jasmine 



Slips 

Cuttings ... 

Cut.& slips. 



June 



June 



Seed. 



Cut. & suck 



Or. scar. 

Scarlet. 
Orange. 



Flesh. 
Yellow a 



White.6 



Yellow. 



* Denotes climbers. t Large varieties. 

a. A beautiful plant, exquisitely fragrant, and producing its flowers in 
great profusion. The juice, as well as the flowers of this plant, are poison- 
ous. Frequently called the " Carolina Yellow Jasamine." 

b. The slowness of growth of the Holly is frequently objected to. This de- 
fect is fully made up in the beautiful scarlet berries which remain on the tree 
through the winter. The seed of the Holly do not vegetate till the second 
year after being sown. Plants taken from the woods, early in the spring, 
will be found the best method for securing these beautiful native trees. 





AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 35 

EVERGREENS— Continued. 


Botanical name. 


Common name. 


•5 

3 S 
o 

m 


Method of 
propaga- 
tion. 


Color. 


Jasminum odoratissi- 
mum.*f 


Sweet-scented Jasmine 


June 


Cut.& suck 
Cuttings. 

It 

Seed. 

Cuttings. 

Suckers .... 

a 

Cut., bud., 

& graft. 

Cut. k slips 

Cuttings ... 
it 

Layers 

Cut.& seed. 
<< 

a 

ii 

ii 

ii 

ii 

Suckers .... 
ii 
ii 
ii 


White. 

Red. a 

" a 

White. 

Yellow. 
b. 

Pink. 

White. 

ii 

" c 

Pale w'te 
White. 
Milk w'e 
Greenish 
white. 


" prostrata,f ... 
" Hibernica,t... 
" Virginiana,f.. 
" communis, f... 


















Narrow-leaved Laurel, 
Grand-flowered Mag- 
nolia. 
Ilex-leaved Mahonia,. 


June 
a 
ti 

May 


" angustifolia, .... 
Magnolia grandiflora,y.. 

Mahonia aquifoliuru,"j\.. 








Rhododendron mami- 

mum.f 
Thuya occidentalism 


American Rhododen- 
dron. 
American Arbor Vitae, 


June 


" Tartarica,f 


Tartarian Arbor Vitae, 
Weeping Arbor Vita?, 
Snow-ball garden Rose 
Tree-like Snow-ball, ... 
Cranberry-tree Snow- 
ball. 


June 

It 

July 

Aug 
it 

Sept 




" oxycoceos, .. 


" flacida, 


Free-blooming Yucca, . 
Narrow-leaved Yucca, 

• 


" augustifolia, 


a. These varieties of the Laurel are shrubs of low growth, and are poison- 
ous to animals. 

b. Commonly called "Balm of Gilead." 

c. This beautiful tree, bearing a fruit of a pleasant acid taste, resembling 
cranberries, is either in fruit or flower most of the year. 

< 



86 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



THE ROSE 



" The Rose is Nature's moralist — upon its leaf appear 

The smile of hope, the blush of love, and sorrow's tender tear.'' 



This beautiful and favorite flower has justly been denominated 
the Pride of Flora, and frequently been made the theme of the 
poet. Language is inadequate to convey a full idea of its delicate 
tints, enchanting colors, sweet perfume, and harmonious outlines. 
All Nature seems to have been taxed in its production, and her 
treasures heavily drawn upon in combining the sweetness and 
beauty of the Rose. There is no limit to the variety and beauty 
of her forms and colors. Made the symbol and interpreter of the 
affections, if her tender and expressive language be blotted out, 
what a chasm in the language of the heart would be found? The 
emblemn of purity, the adornment of beauty, and expressive of hu- 
man affection at the tomb ! 

In contemplating the varied and beautiful works of Nature, no 
other flower excites the admiration of the beholder to the same 
extent as the Rose. How insignificant and imperfect appear the 
works of man compared to this perfect specimen of Nature's gifts? 
The mind is elevated in contemplating her grandeur. The profu- 
sion and loveliness of her flowers, as displayed in the different va- 
rieties, exalts our conceptions of the wisdom and goodness of the 
Creator. She expands to Heaven her grateful fragrance and to 
man her cheerful smiles; and, to some extent, is the promoter 
of human joy and the soother of sorrow — fit emblem of the victor's 
triumph, the young bride's blushes, and the tomb. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 37 

In the cultivation of the Rose we experience an exquisite pleas- 
ure. It is a sense of the beautiful, — a faculty of the soul which is 
awakened. We perceive in her colors, forms, and delightful 
odors, the harmony of Nature. "They recall the past and fore- 
shadow the future; and if their fading hues and scattered petals 
tell of blighted hope and departed joys of early life, so do their 
busting seeds and fresh shoots whisper of a future, which shall 
restore in fresh beauty and unfading verdue the loved, the cher- 
ished, and the lost." Let us then endeavor to carefully preserve, 
and if possible augment, the number of these sublime and har- 
monious gifts of Nature, for they largely contribute to the comfort 
of man. The rose should have a place in every garden, and may 
be propagated from seed, cuttings, budding, grafting, and layer- 
ing. These various methods will be found described under their 
respective heads. 



GROWING ROSES FROM SEED. 

This is one of the most interesting methods of propagating the 
Queen of Flora. Each of the other modes, hereinafter described, 
may excite the admiration of the Amateur, and, when successful, 
amply reward him for his labor; but, should he be fortunate in a 
single instance in his experiments in this particular and interest- 
ing branch of practical Floriculture, he will be more than compen- 
sated for his efforts by the pleasure which he will then enjoy, and 
be enabled to impart to the admirers of Flora, in beholding the 
new and beautiful tints which Nature, assisted by Art, has im- 
planted in and around the object of his care and attention. 

A large field is here opened to the Amateur, and should the 
author be instrumental in inducing any to enter it, he trusts that 
they may have their labors rewarded with success, and be enabled 
to enjoy the same pleasure which he experienced when beholding 
the success of some of his first experiments in this interesting and 
beautiful branch of Floriculture. 



38 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



IMPREGNATING THE SEED. 

To be successful in this operation, some practice is necessary; 
but, by careful attention, success will eventually reward the efforts 
of the operator. Roses have in their centre thready filaments, 
surrounded by anthers. These, when ripe, contain a yellow dust, 
the pollen of the plant. This pollen should be applied to the tip 
of the pistil, which is in the very centre of the flower, when it 
bursts, and, if the plant should seed, generally impregnates the 
same to more or less extent. The flower to be operated upon to 
produce the seed, should be deprived of ita anthers early in the 
morning, with a pair of small cissors. During the day, or the 
next, with the aid of a fine camel-hair pencil, obtain the pollen 
from the plant you desire to cross, and apply the same to the 
pistil of the plant from which you have extracted the anthers. 
Wet or damp weather is unfavorable to the success of this experi- 
ment. In order to insure success, the pollen should be dry and 
powdery. About the first of November the seed will be matured, 
and should then be gathered, retained in their capsules, and buried 
in sand, until the following spring About the first of May en- 
suing, having prepared the ground, in a shady position, which 
should be enriched by the addition of well-rotted manure, or 
leaf -mould, well pulverized, remove the seed from the hips and 
sow them thinly over the top of the soil. Take a board or spade 
and press them level on the earth, and cover to the depth of half an 
inch with sand, leaf-mould, or soil, finely sifted. Give gentle wa- 
terings occasionally with a fine rose. When the plants have made 
a growth of three or four inches, they may bo removed, by the aid 
of the garden-trowel, and placed in pots of good rich earth. Place 
in a shady position, and give gentle waterings. In a few weeks, 
if the season be not too far advanced, they may be planted out to 
remain. The bloom of the third year will generally decide the 
merits of the plant. Many varieties will bloom the first year, and 
some within the first six months after sowing the seed. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 39 

Some few years since, on the 8th of February, the author planted 
eight rose-seed, gathered from Semperflorens, (or Sanguinea,) in 
a box fourteen inches long, ten inches wide, and six inches deep. 
In the bottom of this box was placed charcoal, well pulverized, one 
inch deep. Over this, soil composed of well-rotted hog-manure, 
loam, and leaf-mould, in equal parts, finely sifted, to the depth 
of four inches, was placed. After leveling the soil, the seed were 
equally distributed over the top of the same, and covered with sand 
a quarter of an inch deep, gently sprinkled, and placed in a south- 
ern window. At the expiration of five weeks, seven plants made 
their appearance, and by the 10th of April following, five rewarded 
his efforts by showing bloom. The flowers, however, consisted at 
most of six petals, and all but one were inferior in color to the 
rose from which the seed were gathered. The pollen was taken 
from Mellez, (or The a Fleurs Jaune.) The second year, this 
young plant partook largely of the habits of Mellez in the luxuri- 
ance of its growth ; showing, for a young plant, indications of pro- 
fuse bloom, fragrance, blush or creamy flowers, and beautifully 
cupped. Unfortunately, the care of this anxiously-watched and 
nurtured plant devolved on others, who, from excessive moisture, 
caused it to perish. 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 

The proper time to take cuttings from the mother plant is when 
the sap is in full motion, in order that, in returning by the bark, 
it may form a callus, or protruding ring of granular substance, be- 
tween the bark and wood, whence the roots proceed. As this 
callus, or ring of spongy matter, is generally best formed in ri- 
pened wood, the cutting, when taken from the mother plant, 
should be selected from such wood only as has ripened, and which 
has always the greatest tendency to produce roots. This is the 
true principle in the choice of cuttings. They should be made 
from two to four inches in length, having at least three eyes from 



40 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



the lower end, which should be cut off smooth at the bottom, di- 
rectly under an eye, (as shown in fig. 1,) Insert the cutting in 

Fig. 1. 




good bank sand or loam, finely sifted, from one to two inches deep, 
pressing the sand or loam gently around the same with the hand. 
Place them in a shady position and give gentle sprinklings of wa- 
ter, protecting them from heavy winds. ' If exposed to the dews, 
their rooting will be greatly accellerated. In three or four weeks, 
they will be generally rooted, when they may be removed into pots 
of good soil, gently watered, and again placed in the shade until 
they have taken fresh roots. After which, they may be shifted 
into larger pots for house culture or planted out, according to the 
pleasure of the grower. 



PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 



Nearly every variety of the rose may be propagated by budding. 
Some varieties are difficult to manage by the other methods, but, 
by budding, readily form handsome plants in one year. Budding 
consists in taking an eye, or bud, attached to a portion of the bark 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



41 



of one plant, and generally called a shield, and transplanting it to 
another. The advantages in budding is that where a plant is 
rare, a new plant can generally be had from every eye. This 
operation may be performed from the beginning of July to the 
last of August, the criterion being the forming of the buds in 
axillag of the leaf of the present year. The buds are known to be 
ready by the shield, or portion of bark to which they are attached, 
easily parting from the wood. Having selected such buds as may 
be required, remove the same, by inserting a sharp thin-bladed 
knife about half an inch above the bud and passing the same about 
one-third of the way through the wood of the shoot, come out again 
about the same distance below it, making the cut as clean as pos- 
sible. When the shield is removed it contains a portion of the 
wood, which should be carefully deprived. By cutting upwards, 
as shown in fig. 2, the danger of destroying the eye is materially 
lessened. If the wood be dry, it will not separate easily; in which 
case it should be thrown aside. Make an incision lengthwise 
through the bark of the stock, about an inch long, and cross this 
at the top by another incision, as shown in fig. 3. Raise the bark 
very carefully, as shown in fig. 4, and insert the shield within, 



Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 



Fig. 4. 





gently pressing it to the bottom of the incision, as shown in fig. 5. 
Great care should be taken that it is in close contact with the 



42 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



stock. Being satisfied on this point, which is essential to the suc- 
cess of the operation, bind up all except the bud, with either mat- 
ting, soft twist, or strips of cotton-cloth, (which should be moder- 
ately dampened,) as shown in fig. 6. The bud should be left free 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6. 





to the air, but protected from the sun or very wet weather, either 
of which may defeat the object in view. At the expiration of two 
weeks, the success of the undertaking will be known ; and, if suc- 
cessful, in three weeks thereafter, the bandages should be gradu- 
ally removed, when the stock should be cut off" about two inches 
above the bud, which will tend to strengthen both bud and stock. 
As soon as the bud commences to make wood, the remaining por- 
tion of the stock above the bud should be removed in a neat man- 
ner. Care must be taken, however, not to injure the bud, for the 
least carelessness might remove the same from the stock. All 
suckers must be removed, otherwise they will divert the sap from 
the bud, in which case it must certainly perish. As the bud 
progresses in growth, it should be supported against high winds. 
In the fall, cut the plant down to within a foot of where the bud 
was inserted, which will greatly strengthen it. Buds or scions may 
be safely transported to any reasonable distance by wrapping them 
in damp moss or paper, having first deprived them of their foliage. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



43 



PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING. 



This mode of propagation is performed by five different methods, 
which will be found described under their respective heads, viz : 



WHIP-GRAFTING. 



This operation is performed in March and April, by first cutting 
off the top of the stock at the desired height. Enter the knife at a 
smooth place, about three inches below the top, and cut upwards 
at an acute angle, thereby shaping the stock to a wedge-like form. 
Having the scion prepared, from four to five inches in length, slope 
the bottom so as to fit the stock as near as possible, that the inner 
rinds of both may correspond, especially on the outer side and bot- 
tom, as shown in fig. 7. Hold the graft carefully in its position, 

Fig. 7. 




and secure it with matting, twist, or cotton thread, covering the 
bandage with tempered clay or grafting-wax. The union is formed 
by the rind or sap, which is directly between the bark and wood, 



44 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

and if not placed directly in contact, failure is certain. The stock 
and scion should be as near in size (diameter) as possible to insure 
success. The scion should have at least two buds. This is a very 
strong and handsome mode for standard roses when grafted at the 
standard height. It makes a handsome finish, covering a part 
of the stock which, by the other methods, if not trimmed carefully, 
long remains a scar, and sometimes never become covered with 
bark. The stocks should never be over an inch in diameter, and 
nearer the size of the scion the better. If the graft should be 
successful, it will grow freely. The bandages should then be 
slightly loosened, but not removed, to allow for the swelling of the 
wood. Give support by tieing securely, and carefully remove all 
suckers. In the fall, cut the shoots down to within three or four 
eyes of the present year's growth. 

INN-ARCHING. 

A sort of layering, by the common or slit process, in which the 
talus or heel intended to throw out fibres, instead of being inserted 
in the soil, is inserted in the wood, or between the wood and bark 
of another plant, so as to incorporate with it. It is the most cer- 
tain mode of propagation with plants difficult to excite to a dispo- 
sition for rooting; and, when all other modes fail, this, when a 
proper description of stock is to be found, is sure to succeed. 
The stock designed to be inn-arched, and the plant from which 
the layer or shoot is to be selected, should be near together. 
If the branches of the plant from which the shoots are to be taken 
are too high for the stocks, the stocks should be planted in pots 
and elevated on posts or stands. To perform the operation, hav- 
ing first made one of the most convenient branches or shoots ap- 
proach the stock, mark on the body of the same the part where it 
will most easily join the stock, and in that part of the shoot pare 
away the bark and part of the wood two or three inches in length, 
and in the same manner pare the stock in the proper place for 
the juncture of the shoot. Make a slit upwards in that part 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



45 



of the branch or shoot, as shown in fig. 8, and make a slit 
downward in the stock to admit it, as shown in fig. 9. Let the 
parts then be joined together, slipping the tongue of the shoot 
into the slit of the stock, making both join in an exact manner, 
as shown in fig. 10. Tie them closely together with matting or 
cotton twist, and cover the whole with tempered clay or grafting- 
wax. In from three to six weeks, the graft will be matured. 
The shoot should then be severed from the parent plant, about 
one inch below the juncture, (a,) and the top of the stock re- 
moved, (6,) thereby transferring the shoot to the stock, and form- 
Fig. 10. 





ing a handsome and vigorous plant. The bandages should then 
be removed, and the ends of both shoot and stock, where severed, 
neatly trimed, or they will destroy the beauty of the plant. This 
operation may be performed at any time when the sap is in full 
motion. 



46 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



ROOT-GRAFTING. 

This mode of propagation is performed on detached parts of the 
roots of removed plants. In general, a piece of the root of the 
plant of the same genus is selected, in March or April, well furn- 
ished with fibres, and a scion placed on it in any of the ordinary 
methods used for small stocks. Thus united, as shown in fig. 11, 
bandage with matting or twist, and cover with tempered clay or 

Fig. 11. 




grafting-wax, and plant them deep enough to cover the ball, leav- 
ing one eye of the scion at least above ground. In a month after 
grafting, it may be ascertained whether the scion has united with 
the stock by observing the progress of its buds. It is not safe to 
remove the clay or wax under three months, till the graft be com- 
pletely citratized. When it is taken off, the bandages should be 
loosened where the scion appears to require more room to expand. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



47 



A few weeks after, when the parts have been thus partially inured 
to the air, and when there is no danger of the scion being blown 
off by the wind, the whole of the bandages should be removed. 



WEDGE, OR SADDLE-GRAFTING. 

This operation consists in cutting off the top of the stock at any 
desired height and slitting the same in the centre to the depth 
of three inches, as shown in fig. 12. The graft should be from 




three to four inches in length, and have at least two eyes. This 
mode of propagation was once in high repute, but, at present, is 
seldom resorted to. It does not make as fine a finish as either 
of the other methods, and is very likely to break off from high 
winds. Having thinned off the wood from each side of the same, 
so as to enter the slit in the stock readily, fiting the outer rind or 
bark of the scion in close contact with that of the stock, bandage 
with matting or twist, and cover the whole with tempered clay or 
grafting-wax, and treat as described for whip-grafting. 



48 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



CLEFT-GRAFTING. 



This method is frequently resorted to for standard roses. The 
stock used for this purpose should be larger than the graft. The 
graft should be selected from well-ripened wood, and cut into 
lengths of three or four inches, having at least two or three eyes 
or buds. In performing the operation, the stock having been cut 
down to the desired height, insert the point of the knife at a in 
fig. 13, nearly to the centre or pith of the stock, and draw it 
downward, in an oblique direction, one and a half inches below 
the top of the stock. Again insert the knife at b, making a cor- 
respoding cut, so that it terminates at a point, (c,) cutting out a 
piece of the stock, and forming an opening in shape like the letter 
V. The graft (d, in fig. 14,) should then be cut to fit the opening 



Fig. 14. 



Fig. 15. 



Fig. 13. 






in the stock as near as possible, and the inner rind or bark of both 
stock and graft should be brought into exact contact, as shown in 
fig. 15, to insure success. Secure with matting or cotton twist, 
and cover the juncture with tempered clay or grafting-wax. As 
soon as the graft begins to make new wood, the bandages should 
be loosened; and, if the wound is healed they may be removed- 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



49 



If, however, the union is not perfected, the bandages should be 
replaced, leaving room for the expansion of the wood. Give sup- 
port by tieing securely, and carefully remove all suckers. Cut the 
plant down in the fall to within three or four eyes of the present 
year's growth. 



PROPAGATION BY LAYERING. 

The operation of layering is generally commenced before the 
ascent of the sap, or delayed until it is fully up. Any young 
shoot of eighteen inches or two feet in length will serve for this 
purpose. The shoot intended to become a new plant, first being 
gently bent to the ground, and an eye selected at a convenient 
distance from the mother plant, is half separated, about half an 
inch below the eye, as shown at a in fig. 15. While this permits 



Fig. 15. 



^ 




the ascent of the sap at the season of its rising, the remaining half, 
being cut through and separated, forms a dam or sluice to the de- 
scending sap, which, thus interrupted in its progress, exudes at 
the wound, in the form of a granulous protruberance, which 
4 



50 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

throws out roots. If the cut or notch in the shoot does not pene- 
trate at least half way through, some plants will not form a 
nucleus the first season. On the other hand, if the notch be cut 
nearly through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum, or soft wood, 
is not left for the ascent of the sap, and the shoot dies. A hole, 
about five inches deep and of the same width, should be made, 
(at £,) and the shoot placed therein, having first removed the 
leaves from the portion to be covered by the soil. Secure the 
shoot in its position, and cover with soil about a third of its length. 
The bottom eye of the upright shoot (c) should be selected for this 
purpose. Stake securely, and protect against high winds. When 
the layers are rooted, which will generally be the case by the fall 
after the operation is performed, they should be severed (at d*) from 
the parent plant, and, at the option of the operator, may be re- 
moved or permitted to remain until the ensuing spring. 

In some plants it is not sufficient to cut a notch merely, because, 
in that case, the descending sap, instead of throwing out granula- 
ted matter in the upper side of the wound, would descend by the 
entire side of the shoot. Besides a notch formed by cutting out a 
portion of the bark and wood, the notched side should be slit up 
at least one inch, separating it by a small chip placed in the same 
to keep it open. 



PLANTING. 

Both spring and fall are selected for this purpose, many persons 
giving the latter the preference. We advocate the former, deem- 
ing it preferable for several reasons, among which are the following : 

1. Plants set out in the fall, (remaining dormant through the 
winter,) do not become set or established in the ground by the 
making of new roots before the following summer, and, conse- 
cpuently, are less enabled to withstand the high winds. 

2. If the soil be of a wet or retentive nature in winter, the 
plants placed therein are sure to be injured to more or less extent, 
if not killed. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 51 

3. When planted in the fall, the soil does not settle around 
the roots of plants as in the spring, the same being exposed to the 
alternating freezing and thawing of the soil, which, to say the 
least, is very injurious. 

4. When planted out in the spring, before the buds begin to 
swell, they soon commence throwing out new roots, become early 
established, and will, in a few weeks at most, amply repay for the 
protection afforded them during the winter. 

Crowding plants should be avoided, and frequently prove inju- 
rious. Where the grounds are limited, the best varieties only 
should be planted. Distribute the plants to suit the taste, care- 
fully avoiding formality or studied effect. In setting out plants, 
particularly roses, excavate a hole about eighteen inches or two 
feet deep, and place a few pieces of soft brick, broken flower-pots, 
&c, in the bottom, and cover with soil three inches deep, and so 
on in alternate layers of fragments and soil, till you have the same 
filled up just sufficient to admit the plant to its original depth. 
If the plants are in pots, turn them bottom-upward, holding your 
hands on either side, and gently tap the edge of the pot against a 
post, or other solid object, which will displace the ball of earth un- 
broken. Moderately loosen the outer edges of the earth surround- 
ing the roots, and straighten such as are matted which may pre- 
sent themselves. Hold the plant in an upright position and insert 
the same in the hole prepared to receive it, filling in the soil be- 
tween the roots, draw the same up around it, and press with the 
foot about the sides to keep it in its position. Prune moderately, 
water, and secure to a stake by tieing. 



PRUNING. 



In order to become proficient in this all-important operation, it 
is essentially requisite to understand the nature and habit of the 
plant to be operated upon. This can only be done by practice. 
The chief difficulty in pruning which the Amateur experiences 



52 THE AMATEUES' GUIDE 

arises from the extensiveness of the genus, differing so much in 
habit and character. The mode of pruning should be determined 
by the object of the operator, keeping in view the health and habit 
of the plant. The beauty of the plant, as well as the quality and 
disposition to flower, depend on judicious pruning. This opera- 
tion is performed in spring and autumn. We prefer the former, 
for, when done in March, the shoots are not likely to be injured by 
frost, as is frequently the case when the operation is performed in 
autumn ; for should we have a few days of mild weather, the buds 
become excited and push forth shoots, when, if severe weather 
follow, they become frosted, and the bloom perishes. The es- 
sential directions for pruuing roses, will be found under the head 
of each class, viz : 

Multiflora roses should have the old wood only thinned out, 
unless locality demand it, when the young shoots may be moder- 
ately headed in, early in the spring, before the buds begin to 
swell. 

Moss roses require to have the wood of the preceding year's 
growth thinned out. The young wood should only be thinned 
out where they cross each other, and this very moderately. The 
plants should never be cut down lower than four feet. 

Noisette roses may be pruned from November to March. Thin 
out the old wood of two or three year's growth, and shorten all the 
shoots in proportion to their growth. Those which have made a 
growth of one or two feet, should be cut to within four or six eyes 
of the preceding year's wood; and shoots which have made a 
growth of four to ten feet, should be shortened in to three to eight 
feet; and so in proportion. If pruned in this manner, several va- 
rieties will bloom the whole season. The flowering stems should 
be cut off as soon as they begin to decay, unless the seed be 
required, as the ripening of the seed impoverishes the plant and 
retards the succession of bloom. 

Tea-scented roses should be pruned only of all decayed or sur- 
plus wood, merely sufficient to keep the branches from becoming 
too crowded. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 53 

Bengal roses should have all the dead wood cut out, and the 
shoots of the preceding year, where irregular and ill shapened, 
shortened in. 

Lawrencia roses should have the old and superfluous wood 
thinned out, only sufficient to keep the branches from becoming 
two crowded. 

Bourbon roses will bear closer pruning than any other variety, 
but care should be taken not to spoil the appearance of the plant. 

Hybrid Perpetual roses, being of a very robust growth, should 
be pruned of all surplus wood. Heading-in of the plant will be 
found advantageous for this family of the rose. 

Perpetual Damask roses require the same treatment as recom- 
mended for the" Hybrid Perpetuals. 

Micropiiyllia roses should have only the old shoots thinned 
out. The young shoots should not be pruned unless locality 
demand it. 

Musk-scented roses require the same mode of treatment as 
recommended for the Noisettes. 



54 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



CLASSIFICATION. 



The classification of Roses is somewhat arbitrary, and far from 
being clear and distinct. We have selected such only as have 
proved to be worthy of cultivation, and shall endeavor to give an 
accurate description of their habit, growth, color, &c. In some 
instances, however, we maybe mistaken, for it is rather a difficult 
task to describe accurately the peculiar tints of some roses ; beside 
which, many varieties of the Rose, owing to soil and cultivation, 
occasionally "sport," presenting, at the same time, different tints 
and colors. It has been our aim to give the correct name of each, 
and its synonymes, in order to protect the Amateur against impo- 
sition and assist him in his selection. 

The cultivation of the Rose is very simple, the main secret con- 
sisting in having the soil well drained, pulverized, depth, and 
richness. By keeping the ground free from weeds, and enriching 
the soil when requisite, with a judicious selection of plants, all can 
readily secure their successful cultivation. 

The Amateur generally finds himself confused when making his 
selection of plants from the extensive catalogues of nurseymen ; for, 
between the name and color described as appertaining to some 
particular plant, (named after some celebrated beauty,) his imagi- 
nation become centered on the charms and loveliness of the origi- 
nal, and he, in all probability, selects those which are compara- 
tively worthless. In order to assist him in making a judicious 
selection, we have enumerated the best varieties now in cultiva- 
tion. The synonymes are in italic. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



55 



ROSA MULTIFLORA.— The Multiflora Rose. 

This family of the rose blooms but once during the season, (in 
June,) but for which, many of its varieties would have no com- 
petitors, either in the beauty or the profusion of their flowers, 
which are perfectly formed, blooming in clusters, of various colors, 
varying from a pure white to a deep pink. For covering trel- 
leses, fences, or other objects, but, for this one defect, this class 
would have no superior. They are perfectly hardy, and, being 
very strong and rapid growers, any ordinary garden soil will suit 
them. The pruning of this class should be done very early in the 
spring, before the buds swell. The plants should be secured to 
their support by strips of leather, which are preferable to twine, as 
the latter, on becoming wet, shrink and generally injure the plant. 
These may be propagated by either of the methods described. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Blush white,. 
Every shade, . 

Pink, 


Cupped and double ; about an inch 
in diameter, and blooming in 
clusters. 

Flowers single, semi-double, and 
double. A fine grower, and 
blooms in large clusters. 

Very strong grower, perfect form, 
blooming in very large clusters, 
from pure white to a deep pink. 
Her beauty must be seen to be 
appreciated. When well estab- 
lished, will make shoots of 15 
to 25 feet in one season. 

Perfectly double and cupped ; an 
inch in diameter, and blooming 
in clusters. 

Double, strong grower, and free 
bloomer ; somewhat larger than 

■ the generality of this class. 

Profuse bloomer, and very attrac- 
tive. Many of the flowers often 
striped with white.. 


Grevillia, 


Seven Sisters. 


Multiflora. 


Multiflora Graulhie, 


Pure white, .. 


Russelliana, 


Scarlet Grevillia. 
Russells' Cottage Rose. 



56 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



ROSA CENTIFOLTA MUSCOSA.— The Moss Rose. 

Of all the rose family there is no other which will hear a com- 
parison with this much-admired variety while in hud, for herein 
consists its beauty. When expanded, it looses this peculiar at- 
traction. Its origin remains in obscurity, yet all are sufficiently 
acquainted with its merits to appreciate the exquisite beauty of its 
mossy coat. They delight in a deep, rich, sandy loam, and, when 
well established, will make shoots of two to six feet long in one 
season. Well-rotted manure should be dug in about their roots 
every fall. The pruning should be performed with caution, for 
when overdone, they do not bloom in perfection, and frequently 
die after flowering. The Moss rose may be propagated by either 
of the methods designated, but will be found rather difficult to 
raise from cuttings, unless bottom heat be given to the soil in 
which they are placed. Layering and root-budding are the best 
and most successful methods. The following embrace only the 
best varieties. Many catalogues are more full than the supply. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Rosy lilac, .... 

Cherry red, ... 
Blush, 


Large, cupped, and double. Very 

strong and free grower. Perfect 

form. 
Very double and a strong grower. 
Double, medium size, erect habit, 

and robust grower. 
Large, cupped, and double. The 

sepals of the calix surrounded 

by a green silken mossy fringe. 

Beautiful. 
Large, double, expanded, and bud 

very mossy. Fine foliage, and a 

strong grower. 








Rosy pink, ... 
Rosy pink, ... 


Moss Crestata. 
Crested Moss. 


Damask Moss. 
Tinwell Moss. 



* This curious and beautiful rose is said to be a sport from the Provins 
Cabbage. The foliage is stronger and of a better color than the original. 
Frequently, but erroneously, classed as a Moss. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 

ROSA CENTIFOLIA MUSCOSA— Continued. 



57 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Crimson Pompon, . 
Oscar Foulard. 

Comtesse de Noe,. 



Rosy violet, . . 



Crimson, 



Purplish red, 



De la Fleche, 

Eclatante, 

Etna, iBril. crimson. 



Pink, 



Gracilis, ,Deep pink,... 

Minor. j 

Prolific. 
Hclo'ise, 



Perpetual White 
Moss. 

Quatre Saisons Mousseux 
New White Cluster Moss. 
Louise Colet, 



Malvina, 



Mauget, 

Perpetual Red Moss. 



Panachee Pleine, 

Double White Striped Moss . 



Pompon, 

De Meaux. 
Pompon Feu,. 



Princesse Adelaide, 
Bourbon Moss. 

Princesse Royale, .. 



Provins Moss, 

Unique de Provins. 



Rosy crimson 
Pure white,.. 



Small, full, and compact form. 
Branching habit and moderate 
grower. Plant very mossy. 

Perfect form, medium size, flower- 
ing in large clusters, and a vig- 
orous grower. Changeable. 

Double, cupped, medium size, and 
quite mossy. 

Large, double, expanded, strong 
grower, and very showy. 

Large and very double. Beau- 
tiful. 

Large and full, globular, strong 
grower, and a free bloomer. 

Medium size, full, compact form, 
and strong grower. Desirable. 

A profuse bloomer, very pretty in 
bud, flowering in clusters, and 
blooming the whole season. 



Delicatejblush Large, double, and cupped. Mod- 
I erate grower, and shaded with 
I rosy lilac. 

Rosy pink, ...jLarge, full, and cupped, Flower- 
i ing in clusters, and a vigorous 
grower. 

Rosy pink, ... Growth delicate. Medium size, 
semi-double, and cupped. Will 
flower two or three times during 
the season. 

White or flesh Vigorous grower. Medium size, 
very double, and cupped. Oc- 
casionally streaked with rose. 

Delicatepink, Dwarf habit, small and cupped, 
and of delicate growth. 

Bright red, ... Medium size, full, and expanded. 
A free bloomer. Dwarfish babit. 

Rosy blush, .. Large, full, and compact form. 
Profuse bloomer, flowering in 
clusters, and a strong grower. 

Pur. & crim., Large, double, and cupped. A 
strong grower, and beautifully 
mottled. 

White, Large, full, and cupped. Moder- 
ate grower, and blooming in 
clusters. 



58 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA CENTIFOLIA MUSCOS A— Continued. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 


Rouge, 


Bright rose,.. 
Bright rose,.. 
Pale peach,... 

Pure white,.. 


Medium size, expanded, and per- 
fectly double. A free bloomer. 
Whole plant mossy. 

Semi-double. Frequently spotted 
with red. 

Large, full, and cupped. Moder- 
ate grower. Changing to lilac. 

A vigorous grower, of branching 
habit. Large, expanded, and 
double. 

Large, full, and globular. Beau- 
tiful in bud, but rather delicate 
growth. Somewhat deficient in 
the mossy coat. 


Femtgineuse. 
Rouge de Luxembourg . 
Luxembourg Moss. 
Veilland. 
Sablee, 


Sage-Leaved Moss, 


Splendens, 


White Batb, 


Clifton Moss. 



ROSA MOSCHATA.— The Noisette Rose. 

This family of the rose is quite hardy in this latitude when 
planted in proper positions. If the most tender varieties be 
planted on the north side of a fence or building, so as to protect 
them from the sun in winter, they will need little, or no other 
protection A soil of deep, rich, sandy loam, with a dry or 
gravelly bottom, suit them best. When planted in a position 
where they receive the full glare of the sun in winter, most of this 
class will need more or less protection. The ground should be 
enriched every fall by the addition of well-rotted manure. Sev- 
eral varieties of this class are of dwarfish habit, which will be 
found designated by an asterisk, (*.) 

To the accidental fertilization of the Chinese with the Musk 
rose, it is said, is due the origin of this beautiful family of the 
rose. They are admirably adapted for covering verandahs, build- 
ings, &c. When not wanted for this purpose, they should be cut 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



59 



down to within three or four feet of the ground every season. 
When desired for the former, they should be well secured to what- 
ever they are trained, hy leather straps, tacked to the wood- work, 
as strings are always injurious to the plant, being liable to shrink 
from dampness. The varieties which most need protection will be 
found designated by the single dagger, (f.) The profusion and 
beauty of their flowers, produced in immense clusters, render this 
class of the rose well worthy a place in every garden. Both the 
beauty of the flowers and the profusion of bloom will be greatly 
promoted by the removal of the decayed flower-stems. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Alba,*. 



Pure white, ... 



Abbe Meillon,* |Rosy red, 

Aimee Vibert,* Pure white, .. 

Nevia. 



Aimee Vibert Scandens, 

Alzande, 

Aurora, 



Belle D'Esquermes, 
Camellia Rouge. 



Belle Marseillaise, 
Boulogne, 



Champneyana, 

Champney' s Pink Cluster . 
Cbarles the Tenth 



Chloris,* 

Clara Wendel,*. 

Cloth of Gold,|. 
Chromatelle. 



Pure white, ... 

Pale pink,..., 

Straw, 

Bright red,... 

Crimson, 

Violet, 

Light pink, ... 

Rosy purple,. 

Rosy lilac, .... 
Light yellow, 

Light yellow, 



Comtesse de Grillon, jPale pink, 



Small, profuse bloomer, and makes 
a beautiful dwarf bush. 

Perfect form and profuse bloomer. 

Medium size, compact form, and 
flowering in large clusters. A 
moderate grower. 

A climber ; similar to the above in 
size and form, but producing 
bloom in less abundance. 

Very double, fragrant, and of me- 
dium growth. 

Very double, petals fringed, fra- 
grant, and a strong grower. 

Semi-double, medium size, a fine 
bloomer, and an excellent pil- 
lar rose. 

Double, a moderate grower, and 
very distinct. 

Small, but perfect, and a profuse 
bloomer. 

Profuse bloomer, quite hardy, and 
a strong grower. 

Large, semi-double, and a profuse 
bloomer. 

Double and of medium size. 

Large and double, changing to 
white. 

Large, double, and fragrant. Re- 
quires to be well established to 
bloom freely. Decidedly the best 
yellow ever-blooming rose. 

Very double, fragrant, and strong 
grower. Blooming in clusters. 



60 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA MOSCHAT A— Continued. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Comtesse d' Orloff, 

Comtesse de Tolosan, . 



Comtesse Odoisse, . 
Conque de Venus, . 



Cora L. Barton, 



Desire Roussell,. 



Donna Maria,* 

Du Luxembourg, t- 
Eugenia Dubourg, . 



Eugene Pirolle,* 

Admiral de Eigny. 
Euphrosine,f 



Fellenburg, IPale red, 



Fleur de Jeune Age,f Yell' sh white., 

Lamar que a car rose. 

Jaune Desprez, Rosy buff, ... 

Desprez D'Arcole. 

French Yellow Noisette. 
Jeannie d'Arc, 'Pure white... 



Julia, 

Julia Dante. 
Julienne Le Sourde,*. 



La Biche, . 



Lactans, ; 



Rosy pink, ... Small, rapid grower, and a free 
bloomer. 

White, Very double, large, and cupped. 

A moderate grower, and very 
pretty. 

Pink, Double, cupped, and of medium 

size. A vigorous grower. 
Creamy white Perfectly double, fragrant, and a 
profuse bloomer. Centre bright 
pink, and flowering in clusters. 
Rosy pink', ... Very large, double, cupped, and 
fragrant. A profuse bloomer, 
of strong habit. 

Flesh, [Medium size, cupped, full, and a 

moderate grower. Changing to 
white. Very pretty. 

Rose, Small, full, and cupped. Very 

pretty. 
Rosy purple, . Large, very double, fragrant, and 
free bloomer. Strong grower. 
Pale pink, .... Medium size, full, and cupped. 

A moderate grower. 
Bright rose, .. Perfect form, blooming in large 

clusters. 

Rosy buff, ....Very double, large, and cupped. 
Very fragrant and a moderate 
grower. 
Medium size, double, and cupped. 
An abundant bloomer and a 
fine grower. 
A profuse bloomer, fragrant, and 
a rapid grower. Blooming in 
clusters. 
Perfectly double, profuse bloomer, 
fragrant, and blooming in clus- 
ters. 
Cupped and very double. Flowers 
rather small. A strong grower. 
Creamy blush Double, fragrant, and a profuse 

bloomer. 
Bright pink, . Cupped. A very profuse bloomer 

if planted in rich soil. 
Pale blush, ... Very large, double, and cupped. 
A free grower, changing to pure 
white. 
Milky white, . Very large, double, and a free 
bloomer. 



r 1 1 

AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 61 

ROSA MOSCHATA— Continued. 


Name. 


i 
Color. Description. 




Green' hwhite 

Blush pink, ... 
Pale sulphur, 

Blush, 


Very large, cupped, and fully dou- 
ble. A vigorous grower and 
fine bloomer. 

Double and very profuse bloomer. 
Flowering till late in autumn. 

Profuse bloomer, double, and a 
moderate grower. 

Large, double, cupped, and fra- 
grant. Moderate grower, and 
changing to a yellowish white. 
Quite showy. 

A strong grower, and producing 
bloom in large thin clusters. 

Small, double, and cupped. 

A free grower and very fragrant. 
Very perfect, except in damp 
weather. 

Very double and a free grower. 
Pinkish centre. 

Very fragrant, cupped, a strong 
grower. Buff centre. 

Perfect form, free bloomer, and a 
rapid grower. 

Small, full, and cupped. Centre 
occasionally flesh color. 

Cupped, and very pretty. 

Small, full, and cupped. Opening 
flesh color and dying off white. 
Moderate grower, distinct, and 
fragrant. 

Free bloomer and fragrant. Very 
similar to La Pactole. 

Very fragrant, cupped, and bloom- 
ing in clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Fragrant, free bloom- 
er, and a strong grower. The 
outer petals tinged with red. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. 

Small, beautifully formed, and a 

' free bloomer. 

• 
M 


Carmine Cluster. 


La Pactole, *f 

PactoJus. 

The Pactole. 

New Yellow Tea. 

The Chrysanthimcflora. 


Montrosa. 
Codestis. 

Grandiflora. 

Carassana. 

Triomjjhe des Noisettes. 


Crimson, 

Lemon yellow 

Yellow, white 

Bright rose,.. 

Rosy red, 

White, 

Bright yellow 
Nankeen, 

Pale lemon,.. 
Creamy white 
Redish copper 

Blush, 




Smithii. 
Madame Byrne, 


Madame Jouvain, 




Miss GleofEr * 


Nankin, 


Mutabilis. 
Narcisse,*f 


Ne Plus Ultra, *f 




Odeur d' Anisette,* 




Pink, 



62 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA MOSCHATA— Continued. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Pink, 


Medium size, cupped, and double. 

A vigorous grower. 
Small, cupped, and very double. 

Centre rose and fawn color. 

Dying off white. 
Large, cupped, and double. A 

free grower, and fragrant. 
Very large, cupped, double, and 

fragrant. Very strong grower. 
Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Fragrant, blooming in large clus- 
ters. A very strong grower and 

free bloomer. 
Large, fragrant, and blooming in 

clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A vigorous grower, with varia- 
ble centre. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Shaded with blackish 
purple. 




Creamy buff, . 

Rosy lilac,.... 
Sulphur yel... 

Pale blush,... 

White, 

Bril. crimson, 


Le Similor. 
Sir Walter Scott, 




Triomphe de la Duchere, ... 


Pictorium. 
La Vktorieuse. 
Vitelllina,t 







ROSA INDICA ODORATA.— The Tea-scented Rose. 

This family of the rose is more tender than either of the other 
classes; some few varieties, however, will stand our winters with- 
out protection. G-enerally, they should be protected by having 
straw or the branches of evergreens placed around them. They 
delight in a light, rich soil, with a dry bottom, and in an elevated 
position. The precautions mentioned under the head of "Plant- 
ing," in regard to pieces of broken flower-pots, &c., are particu- 
larly applicable to this family of the rose. The Tea-rose em- 
braces nearly every shade of color ; all of which may be propaga- 
ted by either of the methods designated. Every garden should 
have a collection of this lovely family. Their fragrance are unsur- 



1 

AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 63 

passed, all of the class emitting a delightful odor. Those desig- 
nated with an asterisk (*) particularly require protection. The 
removal of them from the ground for protection during winter, 
and again planting them out in the spring, should never be re- 
sisted to, for it retards their growth and perfect flowering, and is 
every way injurious. 


Name. 


Color. Description. 


Fanny Dupuis. 





Apricot, Large, cupped, and double. Vig- 

1 orous grower, and a beautiful 

] rose. Margin flesh color. 
Deep blush,.. jVery large, globular, and per- 

I feet. A strong grower, and 
fragrant. 
Pink' h white, Very double, cupped, and a very 

1 strong grower. Blooms well ; 

| centre shading to yellow. 
Pure white,.. ..[Large, cupped, and double. Re- 

' quires to be thinned out to make 

! it grow strong. 

1 ing and flowering freely. Bot- 
1 torn of petals yellow. 
Creamy blush Large, fragrant, and strong grow- 
i er. Occasionally deep pink. 


Anteros. 
Isabel. 


Arkinto. 
Belle Archinto. 


Belle AllemaDde, .. 

1 

Belle Marguerite,.. 






Rosy lilac, .... 
Bright rose, . . 

White, 


A free bloomer and very fra- 
grant. Often tinged with fawn 
color. Variable. 

Perfectly double, of strong habit, 
and a profuse bloomer. Ex- 
panded, robust grower, and fre- 
quently of a dark crimson color. 

Double, fragrant, and large petals. 
Changing to cherry red. 

Very large, perfectly double, and 
globular. A strong grower, 
and fragrant. 

Very large, expanded, and double. 
A free bloomer, delicately tinged 
with pink. 

Medium size, globular, vigorous 
grower, and a free bloomer 

Large and cupped. Growing and 
flowering freely, in clusters. 

Large and double. Blooms freely, 
but of loose form. 

1 






Bride of Abydos, .. 






Rosy pink, .... 
Pink, 


L 



64 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA INDIOA ODORATA— Continued. 



Name. 



Clara Sylvain, 

Lady Warender. 



Comte de Paris, . 



Color. 



Description. 



Comte de Osmond, . 
Devoniensis, * 



Delphine Gaudot,. 
Dremont, 



Duchesse de Mecklenburg, 

Eliza Sauvage,* 

Eugenie Desgaches, 



Flavescens, *. 
Yellow Tea. 



Floralie, 



Fragoletta, 

Roi des Beiges. 

Napoleon. 
Gigantesque, 



Pure white,.. Large, perfect form, strong grow- 
er, and free bloomer. One of the 
best of the white Teas. 

Creamy blush Very large, full, cupped, and dou- 
ble. Strong habit, and large 
buds. 

Flesh, Very large, full, and cupped. A 

fine rose. Shaded. 

Creamy white.Very large, double, and free grow- 
I er. Decidedly the most fragrant 
of the Teas. Very desirable. 



Pure white, ... 
Pale flesh, 



Creamy yel., 
Creamy yel., 
Rose, 

Pale straw,... 

Rosy blush,. 
Pale rose, 



Double, cupped, and fragrant. A 
profuse bloomer, and flowering 
in clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Centre inclining to 
fawn color. 

Large, cupped, double, and perfect 
form. 

Very large, globular, and double. 
Beautiful, but rather tender, 

Large, cupped, and full. A rig- 
orous grower. 

Large and double. Beautiful when 
half open, but loose when fully 
expanded. 

Perfect form, and blooming pro- 
fusely, in clusters. 

Large, cupped, and double. Per- 
fect form and fragrant. 



Pale flesh,.... Very large and showy, but defi- 
cient in form. 

Gobault, Rosy blush,. .Very large, expanded, and double. 

I Free grower, fragrant, and cen- 
tre inclining to yellow. 

HamoB* Blush, Large, cupped, and very double. 

J Fragrant, and a profuse bloom- 
; er. Changing to a deep rose 
I color. 

Hardy, Pale pink,.. ..(Medium size, cupped, and very 

GHoriede Hardy. double. A free bloomer, and 

very fragrant. 

Hymenee, Creamy white|Perfectly double, profuse bloomer, 

! and free grower. 

Hyppolyte, Creamy yel., [Large and double. A free grower 

I and profuse bloomer. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 

ROSA INDICA ODOR AT A— Continued. 



65 



Name. 



Jaune Panache, 

Aurora. 

Josephine Walton,*. 



Light straw,. 
Creamy white 



Jules Desmont, . 
Julie Mansais * 



Rose,... 
White,. 



Lady Granville, [Blush, 



La Renommee, 

La Sylphide, 

Lyonnais, 

Madame de St. Joseph, 
Madame Desprez,* 



Madame Guerin, . 



Madame Russell,.. 
Eugenie Jovain. 



Melville, . 
Mirabile, 



Moire,*... 
Mondor, .. 
Niphetos, 
Nisida, ... 



Odorata, 

Common Tea. 



Color. 



White, 

Creamy white 
Pale pink,.... 
Pale pink,.... 
Pure white, ... 

White, 

White. 



Description. 



Rosy blush,.. 
Sulphur yel., 



Fawn, 

Rosy blush,.. 
Pure white, ... 
Rose & fawn, 

Rosy blush,.. 



Large, expanded, and very double. 
A vigorous grower, changing to 
blush color. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Centre occasionally inclining to 
buff color. 

Medium size, full, and globular. 
Changing to white. 

Large, cupped, and perfectly dou- 
ble. Very sweet, and changing 
at times to light yellow. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Vigorous grower and 
free bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and full. Exqui- 
site form. O en tre pale lemon. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
Strong grower and free bloomer. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
Strong grower and free bloomer. 

Very large, expanded, and double. 
A vigorous grower. 

Large, perfectly double, and quite 
fragrant. Beautiful, but very 
delicate. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Tinged with lemon. 

Large, full, and compact. Profuse 
bloomer and a free grower. Of- 
ten shaded with rosy lilac. 

Perfectly double, strong grower, 
and quite, hardy. 

Medium size, full, and cupped. 
Growing and blooming freely. 
Edged and shaded with rose. 

Large, full, and globular. Beau- 
tifully shaded. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Changeable. 

Very large, full, and globular. 
Strong grower and quite hardy. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Fine habit and very 
fragrant. 

Large, double, and very fragrant. 
Beautiful in bud, but loose when 
expanded. 



66 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA INDICA ODORATA— Continued. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Creamy white 

Creamy white 
Pale yellow, .. 

Creamy yel., 
Buff, 


Large and full, with a buff centre. 

A free grower. 
Medium size, globular, and full. 
Large, globular, and very double. 

A free grower and very fragrant. 
Medium size, cupped, and double. 

Quite fragrant, and edged with 

buff. 
Very large, globular, and very 

double. Centre rose color, and 

deliriously fragrant. 
Large, cupped, and full. Very 

fragrant. 
Very large, cupped, and full. 

Robust grower, and yellowish 

centre. 
Large, cupped, and full. Strong 

habit and quite hardy. 
Very large, cupped, and double. 

Buff centre, and very fragrant. 
Medium size, double, and early 

bloomer. Petals edged with 

bright red. 
Large, cupped, and very double. 

Desirable. 
Very large, cupped, and full. Ro- 
bust grower, a,nd very sweet. 

Variable, changing to crimson. 
Large, cupped, and very double. 

Profuse bloomer. Centre chang- 
ing to yellow. 
Large, cupped, and full. A fine 

grower, and quite hardy. Cen- 
tre tinged with lemon. 
Large, cupped, and full. Centre 

inclining to blush. 
Very large, globular, and full. A 

strong grower, free bloomer, 

and quite fragrant. 
Medium size, cupped, and very 

double. Centre deep pink. 
Large, cupped, and very double. 

Beautiful. Often tinged with 

copper color. 
Very large, cupped, and double. 

A strong grower. 










Straw, 


Princesse Helene Modeste, . . 


White, 


Rosy pink,... 
Rose, 






Creamy blush 


Happy Dream. 




Creamy white 
Creamy white 
White, 




Triomphe du Luxembourg* 


Rosy buff,... 

Pale pink,.... 
Orange yel., 

Deep blush,.. 


Victoria Modeste, 









AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 67 


ROSA INDICA. — Bengal Chinese, or Daily Rose. 


The varieties of this class and Rosa Semperflorens we shall in- 


clude in the same group, for the habits and colors so nearly re- 


semble each other, it is next to impossible to say to which species 


they belong. They are of a hardy nature, and generally will stand 


our winters without protection They should have a rich sandy 


soil, of eighteen inches depth. The Bengals may be propagated by 


cuttings from June to September, inclusive. If done in June, they 


will make handsome plants by the fall. For ordinary garden pur- 


poses, layering is preferable, and by far the safest method. This 


may be done in July or August. — (See Layering.) Well-rotted 


manure should be dug in about their roots in the fall. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Redish purple 


Large, very double, and globular. 
Often shaded with white. 






Br't rosy red, 


Large, cupped, and double. 
Double and very profuse bloomer. 
Very large, expanded, full, and a 
profuse bloomer. Changing to 




Pale rosy p'k, 
Bright rose,.. 


Archduke Charles, 








crimson. 


\ucustine Hersent, 


Pink, 


Very large, cupped, and double. 
Moderate grower. 


Madame Hersent. 




Bardon 


White, 


Large, cupped, and very double. 
A free 'bloomer. Centre flesh 










color. 


Baronne Delaage, 


Crimson, 


Medium size, globular, and full. 
Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A free grower and 




Dark crimson 




purple. 






profuse bloomer. 


Belle de Monza, 


Light rose,... 


Perfectly double and a strong 
grower. Changing to a dark 








crimson color. 




Pale crimson, 


Medium size, cupped, and semi- 
double. Profuse bloomer, and 










flowering in clusters. 


Belle Emilie, 


Blush, 


Large, expanded, and double, with 
flesh-colored centre. 


Theresia Stravius. 






Blush 


Verv laro-p rairmeH ami Hmihlp 


Quite showy. Centre flesh color. 





68 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA INDICA— Continued. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Belle Isadore, . 



Boisnard, 

Camellia Blanc, . 
Camelliaflora, ... 
Cameleon, 



Pale sulphur, 

White, 

Rosy red, 

Light pink, .., 
Br t. carmine. 

Pink blush,. 

I 
Comble de Gloire, Rich crimson. 

The Buret. 

Gtos Charles. 
Cramoisie Superieur, IVelvety crim. 

Aggrippina. 



Carmin d'Yebles, . 
Carmin Superbe. 



Cels Multiflora,. 



Don Carlos, 

Jeannie Deans. 
Duchess de Kent,. 



Etna, 

L'JEtna. 

Eugene Beauharnais, . 

Prince Eugene. 
Eugene Hardy, 



Fanny Duval,. 



Fabvier, 

Noisette Aggrippina. 
General Soyez, 



Henry the Fifth, 
Hortensia, 



Indica, , 

Pink Daily. 



Crim. & blush Large and cupped. A free grower 
and profuse bloomer. Various- 
ly shaded. 

Large and cupped. Changing to 
nearly white. 

Large, globular, and very double. 
A free bloomer. 

Large and very perfect. Chang- 
ing to dark red. 

Double, strong grower, and grad- 
ually changing to crimson. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A very pretty and free-blooming 
rose. 

Perfectly double, cupped, and a 
profuse bloomer. Does not open 
well early in the season. 

Large, expanded, and double. A 
free grower, fragrant, and good 
bloomer. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A moderate grower, beautiful, 
and should be in every collec- 
tion. 

Large, cupped, and double. Cen- 
tre salmon color. 

Small, cupped, and full. Dwarf- 
ish habit. 

Large, expanded, and very beau- 
tiful. Petals often tinged with 
scarlet. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Buds beautiful when unfolding. 

Medium size, cupped, and perfect- 
ly double. Centre flesh color. 

Large and cupped, with flesh-col- 
ored centre. 

Medium size, semi-double, and 
very showy. 

Large, cupped, and double. Beau- 
tiful in autumn. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Often striped with white. 

Perfect form, strong grower, and 
a profuse bloomer. 

Semi-double, strong grower, and 
a profuse bloomer. 



White, 



Pale pink,..,. 
Rose to crim. 

Rich crimson. 



White,. 
White,. 
Scarlet, 



Cherry crim., 
Crim. scarlet, 
Blush pink, ... 
Dark blush,.. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 69 

ROSA INDICA— Continued. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




White, 


Semi-double, free grower, and a 
profuse bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
A free bloomer. 

Medium size aud cupped, with 
rosy purple centre. 

Medium size, globular, and dou- 
ble. Changing to dark crimson. 

Medium size, globular, and dou- 
ble. Centre pale blush. A free 
grower. 

Very large, double, and compact. 
Fine habit. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Centre inclining to straw color. 
One of the best white autumn 
bloomers. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Variable. Often car- 
mine and crimson. 

Large, globular, perfectly formed, 
and a profuse bloomer. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Profuse bloomer, free grower, 
and flowering in clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. 
Often suffused with light purple. 

Large, globular, and double. A 
profuse bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and perfect form. 
Changeable. 

Perfectly double, cupped, and a 
brofuse bloomer. 

Medium size, double, fragrant, 
and a strong grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 


White Daily. 
Icterose, 


Creamy white 
Dark crimson 
Bright rose, .. 
Dark crimson 

Bright rose,.. 
White, 


Joseph Deschiens, 


Leonidas, 


Louis Philippe, 


King of France. 
Madame Breon, 


Madame Burea, 


Madame de Rohan. 
In fide lite de Lisette. 

Madame de Crequi, 


Blush, 


Marjolin, 


Dark crimson 
Pure white, ... 

Light crimson 
Br. rosy red, 
Rosy violet,.. 
Rich crimson, 
Br't crimson, 
Blush, 


Meillez, 


The a Fleurs Jaune. 
Prince Charles, 


Reine de Lombardie, 


Rubens, 


Ruban Pourpre. 
Semperflorens, 


Sanffuinea. 









. 

70 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA LAWRENCIANA.— The Miniature Rose. 

This family, as its name implies, consists of plants of dwarfish 
habit. The low growth of these plants and the small size of their 
flowers present a striking contrast in comparison to the other va- 
rieties. They should be grown by themselves, for, when planted 
among the strong and rapid growers, their beauty will be compar- 
atively lost sight of. These beautiful little plants vary in color 
from white to dark crimson ; and, when planted in good rich soil, 
frequently combine the loveliness and beauty of some of the larger 
varieties in miniature. These should be propagated from cut- 
tings, their diminitive size rendering them troublesome by the 
other methods. The treatment recommended for Tea roses is ap- 
plicable to this class. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 


Alba, 


Pure white,.. 
Pink 


Perfect in form. Beautiful. 
Double and quite distinct. 
Flowers about the size of a dime. 

Plant about ten inches high. 
Flowers the size of a half-dime. 

Plant, when full grown, about 

six inches high. 
Double and perfect. Growth about 

one foot high. 
The largest and most robust of the 

family. 




Gloire, 


Bright pink,. 
Light rose,... 






Indica Minor. 








I 

i 


ROSA BOUE 

This class of roses ar 
decidedly the favorite 
They are generally of 


BOXIANA.- 

e perfectly 1] 
with a lar. 
a strong an 


-The Bourbon Rose. 

ardy in this latitude, and are 
re majority of rose fanciers. 
.1 vigorous growth, producing 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 71 

a constant succession of bloom the -whole season. They delight 
in a strong rich soil, and will bear moderately close pruning. 
The decayed flower-stems should be removed, unless the seed be 
desired. The Bourbons form handsome standard plants, and may 
be propagated by either of the methods described. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Pale white,... 
Rosy pink, .... 
Bright rose,.. 

Rosy carmine 
Pale blush,... 

Silvery rose,. 
Deep pink,.... 

Bright rose,.. 
Rosy purple, . 

Bright red,... 

Pur. violet, ... 

Rosy crimson 
Rosy pink, .... 
Br't carmine, 

Delicate rose, 


Large, full, and globular. Vig- 
orous grower. 

Large, cupped, and double. Mod- 
erate grower. w 

Large, cupped, and perfect form. 
Strong grower and blooming in 
clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Moderate grower. 

Medium size, full, and compact. 
A very pretty rose, and a moder- 
ate grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A vig- 
orous grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A profuse bloomer and free 
grower. Exquisite form, and 
beautiful. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Moderate grower. 

Large, cupped, and double. Very 
showy, an abundant bloomer, 
and dwarfish habit. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A strong grower, fine 
habit, fragrant, and very pretty. 

Large, globular, and full. Mod- 
erate grower, and occasionally 
crimson scarlet. 

Large, full, and cupped. A mod- 
erate grower. 

Large, compact, and very double. 
A vigorous grower. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
Profuse bloomer, fragrant, and 
and a strong grower. 

Medium size, compact, and very 
double. Profuse bloomer and 
a vigorous grower. . 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
Vigorous grower. 










Madame Beluze. 




Hermosa. 


UgUSme "^ 




Therese Mar gat, 
Madame Mar gat. 




Boquet de Flore, 


Cardinal Fesch, 




1 — — 



72 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 



Name. 



Ceres, 



Color. 



Description. 



Cezarine Souchet,. 



Charlemagne, 



Charles Martel, 



Charles Souehet, 



Chatenay, 

Cornice de Seine et Marne, 

Comte de Rambuteau, .. 



Rosy lilac, . 



Blush, 



Blush, 



Purple, 



Dark rosy vi- 
olet. 
Lilac flesh,... 

Br't crimson, 



Crimson Globe,... 
Docteur Hoques. 



Delille, 



Desgaches, 
Gantin. 



Docteur Blandin, 



Docteur Hardouin, 



Due de Chartres, . 



Duchesse de Normandie, 
Duchesse de Thuringe, ... 



Dark rose,..., 

Pur. crimson, 

Rosy lilac,.... 
Delicate pink, 

Rosy lilac, .... 
Delic'e peach, 

Bright rose,.. 



Purplish rose, 
White, 



Dumont du Courset, . 



Dupetit Tbouars, . 



Very large, compact, and very 
double. Moderate grower, but 
does not open well early in the 
season. 
Large, compact, and very double. 
Moderate grower. Tinged with 
rose. 
Large, cupped, and very double. 
Moderate grower. Changing to 
pink. 
Medium size and full. Shaded 

with crimson. 
Medium size, cupped, and com- 
pact. Dwarf grower. 
Large, full, cupped, and fragrant. 

A vigorous grower. 
Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A moderate grower, 
and blooming in clusters. 
Large-, full, and compact. Dwarf- 
ish habit, and tinted with lilac 
color. 
Medium size, full, and globular. 
Robust habit and a moderate 
grower. 
Large, compact, and very double. 

Moderate grower. 
Medium size, full, and cupped. A 
strong grower, and blooming 
in clusters. 
Small, globular, and very double. 

Blooming in clusters. 
Medium size, full, and cupped. A 
moderate grower. Distinct and 
beautiful. 
Very large, expanded, and full. 
A free bloomer and robust 
grower. 
Medium size, full, and globular. 
Medium size and very double. 
Delicately tinted with lilac. 
Dark velvetyjMedium size, full, and compact. 
A free bloomer, of dwarfish 
habit. Changeable. 
Large, full, and compact. A vig- 
orous grower, and blooming in 
clusters. 



Dark crimson 





AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 73 

ROSA BOURBONIAN A— Continued. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Pink, 


Very large, full, and cupped. A 
vigorous grower, and shaded 
with pale pink. 

Large, full, and compact. Mod- 
erate grower and a free bloom- 
er, but does not open well early 
in the season. 

Small, cupped, and very double. 
A moderate grower, and very 
pfetty. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Dwarf grower. 

Medium size, double, and strong 
grower. 

Large, expanded, and very dou- 
ble. Strong grower, fragrant, 
and blooming in clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Small grower. Some- 
times bright rose. 

Perfect form, strong grower, and 
a profuse bloomer. 

Large, full, and compact. A free 
bloomer and moderate grower. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. A profuse bloomer and 
moderate grower. 

Perfect form and a strong grower. 

Large, double, and strong grower. 
Blooming in clusters. 

Large, cupped, and full. 

Large and compact. A strong 
grower, flowering in large clus- 
ters. Beautiful and fragrant. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
free bloomer. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Moderate grower and 
very fragrant. 

Medium size, globular, and very 
double. Robust grower, and 
blooming in clusters. 

Small, cupped, and very double. 
Moderate grower, fragrant, and 
blooming in clusters. 








Rosy blush,.. 

Rosy crimson 
Delic'e blush, 
Br't crimson, 

Pale rose, , 

Violet purple, 
Rosy crimson 
Deep crimson 

Pale blush,... 
Deep rose,.... 

Rosy crimson 

Rosy pink,... 
Deep pink,.... 

Pink blush,.. 

Flesh 
















Henry Clay, (Ball's,) ,,,. 




Splendent. 

Crimson Madame Desprez. 


Ida Percot, 


Irapera trice Josephine, 


White Bourbon. 







74 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Deep red, 

Rosy pink,... 

Rosy lilac,.... 
Bright red,... 
Bright pink,. 

Flesh, 


Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Fragrant, a moderate 
grower, and a profuse bloomer. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Moderate grower and 
free bloomer. Beautiful. 

Large, full, and globular. Strong 
grower 

Large and compact. Dwarfish 
habit. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
A strong grower and quite 
pretty. 

Large, expanded, and double. A 
vigorous grower, flowering in 
clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A moderate grower. 
Centre pink color. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
strong grower. Edged with 
crimson. 

Medium size, expanded, and dou- 
ble. Vigorous grower. Some- 
times crimson scarlet. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
strong grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Dwarf grower. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower, with a pur- 
plish tint. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A moderate grower. 
Centre fawn color. Beautiful. 

Large, globular, and full. A vig- 
orous grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Very pretty. ( 

Large, cupped, and full Strong 
grower, and flowering in large 
clusters. 

Large, globular, and full. Strong 
grower, blooming in clusters. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
strong grower, and blooming 
in clusters. 














Blush, 


Le Flor'fere, 


Rosy lilac,.... 
Rosy purple, . 
Rose, 








Bright red,... 
Light cherry, 

Rosy lilac, .... 

Bright rose,.. 

Lilac rose,.... 
White, 






















AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 

ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 



75 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Madame Nerard,. 
Madame Pepin,.. 



Madame Souchet, 

Madame Tripet, 

Mademoiselle Rachel, . 



Malvina, 

Manteau de Jeanne d'Arc. 



Marechal de Villars, . 
Margat Jeune, 



Marianne, 

Marquise d'lviy, .. 

Miss Fanny, 

Mrs. Bosanquet,.... 

Nerine, 

Ninon de l'Enclos, 

Oscar Leclerc, 

Paul Joseph, 



Waxy blush; 
Pink, 



Blush, 

Dark rose, 
Blush, 



Rosy pink, .... 
Flesh 



Pur. crimson, 
Rich crimson, 

Rosy pink,... 

Rosy pink,... 

Flesh, 

Creamy white 

Rosy pink,... 

Rosy purple, . 

Crimson, 

Pur. crimson, 



Large, cupped, double, and fra- 
grant. Very perfect, and a fine 
bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
moderate grower. Changing to 
blush . 

Large, compact, and double. A 
moderate grower. Very pretty. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
moderate grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A moderate grower. Tinged 
with pink. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
A moderate grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Dwarfish grower, and 
beautiful. 

Very compact, good grower, and 
a profuse bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and a moderate 
grower. Edges of centre petals 
whitish. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Robust grower, and blooming 
in clusters. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
vigorous grower, flowering in 
clusters, and changing to lilac. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
vigorous grower, blooming in 
clusters. Margin nearly white. 

Large, cupped, and double. Vig- 
orous grower, profuse bloomer, 
and very desirable. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Very pretty. Dwarfish 
habit. 

Medium size, variable, and free 
grower. Requires to be well 
established to show its beauty. 

Large, cupped, and full. A ro- 
bust grower. Shaded with dark 
violet. 

Large, compact, and full. Mod- 
erate grower, and often shaded 
with fiery crimson. Very fine. 



76 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 



Name. 



Pierre de St. Gyre, 

Pourpre Fafait, .• 

Pourpre de Tyre, 

Premices des Charpennes, . 

Princesse Clementine, 

Princesse de Modena, 



Prince Albert, (Paul's,). 
Proserpine, 



Queen of the Bourbons, 

Reine des lies de Bourbon 



Raymond, 

Reine du Congres, . 

Reine des Vierges, . 

Scipio, 

Souchet, 



Souvenir de Desire, 



Souvenir de Dumont d'Ur- 
ville. 

Souvenir de la Malmaison, 



Color. 



Pale rose,.... 
Crim. purple 
Dark crimson 
Lilac rose, . . 

Purple, 

Flesh, 



Scar, crimson 
Crimson .. 



Fawn, 



Br't crimson, 
Flesh, 



Blush, 

Pur. crimson. 
Pur. carmine. 

Violet carm'e 
Rosy crimson 

Delicate blush 



Description. 



Large, cupped, and double. A 
vigorous grower, and blooming 
in clusters. Superb. 

Medium size, compact, and full. 
A vigorous grower, blooming 
in clusters. 

Large, full, and cupped. Robust 
grower. Shaded with purple. 
Variable. 

Medium size, globular, and dou- 
ble. A vigorous grower, and 
flowering in clusters. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower. Centre often 
vivid crimson. 

Medium size, finely cupped, and 
double. A dwarf grower, and 
tinted with pink. Very dis- 
tinct. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Beautiful. 

Medium size, full, and compact. 
Dwarf grower and a free bloom- 
er. Variable. 

Large, cupped, and double. Free 
bloomer and fragrant. Dwarf- 
ish habit. 

Medium size, expanded, and full. 
Vigorous grower. 

Medium size, full, and compact. 
A moderate grower. Shaded 
with pink. 

Large and full, with flesh-colored 
centre. A vigorous grower? 

Large, double, free bloomer, and 
shaded with scarlet. Showy. 

Very large, cupped, and compact. 
Moderate grower and fragrant. 
Superb. 

Medium size and full. A vigor- 
ous grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. Dwarfgrower. Often 
tinged with purple. 

Very large, full, and compact. 
A vigorous grower, with thick 
petals. Very fine. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 

ROSA BOURBONI AN A— Continued. 



77 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Sully, 

Sydonie Dorisy, 

Theresita, 

Triomphe de Plantier 

Viscomte de Cussy, ... 

Virgil, 

Zulema, 



Dark crimson 
Peach,. 



Lilac pink,... 
Br't crimson, 

Cherry, 

Rose, 

Flesh, 



Medium size and very double. A 

moderate grower. 
Medium size, full, and compact. 

A moderate grower. Slightly 

tinged with lilac. 
Medium size, full, and globular. 

A free bloomer. 
Large, cupped, and very double. 

A strong grower, and blooming 

in clusters. 
Large, compact, and double. A 

moderate grower. Tinged with 

purple. 
Large, cupped, and full. A vig- 
orous grower. 
Globular. When well grown, 

blooming in immense clusters. 



REMONT ANTES. —The Hybrid Perpetual Rose. 

This magnificient class of roses are very strong growers, gen- 
erally producing very large flowers, perfect in form, combining 
nearly every color, and possessing a delightful fragrance. They 
are not, however, true to their name, as they generally bloom but 
two or three times during the season, when strong new shoots 
spring up. Their chief merit is the true old-fashioned character 
of the flowers — large and fragrant as the Damask rose. Some few 
are very free bloomers, and all are perfectly hardy. By cutting 
off the larger proportion of their first buds, and a few of their 
shoots back, they will flower in full perfection. Encouragement 
should be given to their growth by the addition of compost in the 
fall, well dug in. If their roots be watered in dry seasons, as de- 
tailed under the head of "Watering," once or twice a week, it 
will greatly promote both the growth and blooming of the plant. 



78 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

They require a strong and deep rich soil, and should be deprived 
of all superfluous wood. These may be readily propagated by 
either of the methods enumerated. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Blush, 


Medium size, full, and globular. 
A moderate grower, of branch- 
ing habit. Centre rose color. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower, of erect habit. 

Large, full, and compact. Strong 
grower. 

Large, expanded, and double. A 
moderate grower, of erect habit. 

Very large, globular, and double. 
A strong grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, free bloomer, and 
fragrant. 

Large, full, and globular. A fine 
rose, and strong grower. 

Large, full, and cupped. A very 
strong grower, and blooming in 
clusters. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. A moderate grower, and 
quite showy. 

Very large, full, and compact. A 
very strong grower. 

Medium size, expanded, and dou- 
ble. Dwarf grower, of branch- 
ing babit. Centre white. 

Medium size, full, and compact. 
A moderate grower, and an 
abundant bloomer. 

Very large, expanded, and full. 
A strong grower, very fragrant, 
and shaded with lilac blush. 

Medium size and semi-double. 
Centre nearly white. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A dwarf grower, and 
very pretty. 

Very large, globular, and very 
double. A moderate grower, 
and very fragrant. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
A moderate grower, of branch- 
ing habit. 


Admiral d'Esting, 


Lilac red, 
Bright red.... 
Flesh, 


Alexandrine Bachmeteff, ... 
Alphonse Karr, 




Rosy lilac,.... 
Rosy crimson 

Light pink,... 
Bright violet, 

Rosy pink, ... 

Bright rose,.. 
Bright cherry 

Bright pink,. 

Rosy pink,... 

Delicate rose, 


Aubernon, 


Auguste Mee, 


Baronne de Heeckeren, 
Baronne Prevost, 


Calliope, 


Clementine Duval, 


Clementine Seringe, 


Pauline Plantier. 
Mrs. Wood. 
Coeline Perpetuelle, 


Commandant Fournier, 
Comted'Egmont, 




Lig't carmine 


— — 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 79 

REMONTANTES— Continued. 

- 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Violet red,.... 
Rosy purple, . 


Very large, globular, and double. 
A moderate grower. Shaded, 
and beautiful. 

Very large, double, and very fra- 
grant. A moderate grower, and 
flowering finely late in autumn. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
A moderate grower. Occasion- 
ally tinged with purple. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. A strong grower. Often 
blooming in clusters. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
A vigorous grower, and very 
showy. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 
double. A dwarf grower, and 
beautiful. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower, and very fra- 
grant. 

Medium size, globular, and full. 
A moderate grower. Beautiful 
in autumn. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
A moderate grower. A sweet 
and beautiful rose. 

Large, expanded, and semi-dou- 
ble. A strong grower. Shaded 
with dark velvety crimson. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower and very fragrant. 
Shaded with flesh color. 

Very large, full, and very fra- 
grant. A strong grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A strong 
grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Centre pink, and 
very pretty. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. A strong grower. 

Very large, globular, and full. A 
strong grower. Very fragrant. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Moderate grower, very fragrant, 
and surrounded by a pale tint. 




Comtesse de Rambuteau,... 


Peach, 


Rosy purple,. 
Bright red,... 
Rich carmine, 
Pink, 










Pur. crimson, 

Bril. scarlet,. 

Bright rose,.. 

Delicate rose, 
Laven' r blush 
Blush, 




Duchesse de Montpensier, ... 




Duchesse de Sutherland,... 
Earl Talbot, 


Rosy pink,... 
Rosy lilac, .... 
Bright red,... 









80 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

REMONTANTES— Continued. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Ferdinand Deppe, 
Fulgorie, 



Geant des Batailles, . 
Gloire de Rosamene, . 



Grande Capitaine, . 
Jacques Lafitte, .... 

Julie Dupont, 

Lady Alice Peel,... 



Lady Elphingstone, . 
Lady Fordwich, 



Lady Sefton, . 



Lady Stuart, 

Lane, 

Laura Ramand, . 
La Reine, 



La Renoncule, 

Louis Buonaparte,. 



Rose, 

Rosy lilac, .... 

Bril. crimson, 
Crimson scar. 



Crimson scar 
Bright rose, . 

Rich rose, 

Rosy crimson 



Rosy crimson 
Richrosycrim 



Pink, 



Delicate flesh, 
Purplish rose, 
Light blush, .. 
Rose, 



Cherry crim., 



Deep vermil. 



Large, globular, and full. A free 
grower, and very fragrant. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower, and very fra- 
grant, with rosy crimson centre. 

Large, expanded, and double, A 
moderate grower, very fragrant, 
and beautiful. Very desirable. 

Large, cupped, and semi-double. 
A strong grower, blooming in 
clusters. Occasionally shaded 
with purple and striped with 
white. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Dwarf grower . Beautiful . 

Large, expauded, and full. A 
vigorous grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Very fragrant. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, fragrant, and very 
pretty. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
moderate grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
moderate grower, with a pur- 
plish tinge, changing to pale 
rose color. 

Very large, cupped, and double. 
A strong grower. Pretty and 
distinct. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Beautiful. 

Large, expanded, and full. Mod- 
erate grower. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower. Very desirable. 

Very large, cupped, and full. Of- 
ten shaded with lilac ; occasion- 
ally with crimson. A strong 
grower. 

Medium size, globular, and full. 
A moderate grower, and very 
pretty. 
Very large, cupped, and full. A 
beautiful rose, very fragrant, 
and a strong grower. 





1 

AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 81 

REMONT ANTES— Continued. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Lilac blush,.. 


Very large, cupped, and full. A 
strong grower, and shaded with 
deep rose color. 

Medium size, globular, and full. 
A dwarf grower, of exquisite 
form. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
A moderate grower, and very 
distinct. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Very fragrant, and a strong 
grower. 

Large, full, and compact. Beau- 
tifully shaded with carmine. 
Very pretty. 

Large, globular, and full. Strong 
grower. One of the best of the 
group. 

Medium size, cupped, and fine 
form. Moderate grower, and a 
beautiful rose. 

Large, compact, and very double. 
Dwarfish habit, very fragrant, 
and a free bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, fragrant, and very 
showy. 

Very large, cupped, and full. A 
strong grower and very fra- 
grant. Tinged with purple. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. A strong grower and a 
beautiful rose. 

Large, compact, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, and often shaded 
with purple. 

Large, cupped, and full. A strong 
grower. 

Large, compact, and full. Very 
fragrant, and a strong grower. 
Very desirable. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. Strong grower, and bloom- 
ing in clusters. 

Medium size, globular, and very 
double. A moderate grower 
and a profuse bloomer. 






Bril. carmine, 
Purplish rose, 
Silvery rose, .. 
Nearly white, 
Blush, 












Delicate pink, 
Bright pink,. 

Purplish rose, 

Velvety crim. 

Crimson pur. 
Crimson pur. 

Rosy lilac,.... 

Rosy purple, . 


Mathilde Jourdeuil, 


Melanie Cornu 


Mrs. Elliott, 








Prince of Wales 




6 



THE AMATEUKS' GUIDE 

REMONT ANTES— Continued . 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Dark purplish 

crimson. 
Rosy pink, .... 

Rosy crimson 

Bril. cherry,. 
Bright rose,.. 
Bril. crimson, 

Lig't crimson 

Pale rose, .,, 


Large, compact, and full. Strong 
grower. 

Very large, globular, and full. A 
strong grower. 

Very large, compact, and full. A 
strong grower, and blooming in 
clusters. 

Large, globular, and full. Very 
fragrant, and a strong grower. 

Medium size, compact, and very 
double. Dwarfish habit. 

Large, cupped, and double. A 
moderate grower and very dis- 
tinct. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. Moderate grower, tinged 
with purple. 

Large, compact, and full. Petals 
very thick, and a strong grower. 










William Griffith, 





PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES. 

Some few years since, this family of the rose was quite limited, 
comprising a favorite old group more remarkable for the delicious 
fragrance of their flowers than for their size or beauty of form • 
but, from hybridization, have now become so extensive, varied in 
color, and character, that for fragrance, color, and perfection 
of their bloom, they cannot be surpassed. Many roses are sold 
under this head which fall far short of what their name would 
imply, blooming but once, (in June,) and, with all the encourage- 
ment which may be given them, they seldom produce the second 
bloom. They are quite hardy, and make fine standard plants. 
The culture recommended for the Remontantes is applicable to 
this class of the rose. They may be propagated by either of the 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



83 



methods designated. In rooting by layers, however, they will be 
found to require two years to form rootlets. Budding and graft- 
ing are preferable, and by far the easiest and quickest method for 
this family. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Angelina, . 
Antinous, 



Belle Faber, 
Grande. 



Bernard, 

Madame Ferray. 
Perpetual Pom-pone. 
Billiard, 

Georgina. 



Claire du Chatelet, . 



Couronne de Beranger, . 

Crimson, 

Rose du Roi. 
D' Angers, 



D'Esquermes, 

Royale. 
De Montmorency, 



Desdemona, 

Deuil de Dumont d'TJrville, 

Duchesse de Rohan, 

Earl of Derby, 

Eliza Balcombe, 

Grande et Belle, 

Indigo, 



Isaure Lablee, . 



Crimson pur 
Pur. crimson 
Rosy crimson 



Salmon, 



Rosy pink,. 



Rosy pink,... 



Rosy red, 
Crimson,. 



Pale rose, . 
Bright rose,.. 
Rosy crimson 
Rosy purple, . 
Pur. crimson, 
Rosy crimson 

Rose, 

White, 

Purplish rose, 
Dark purple, . 



Pink, 



Medium size, expanded, and full. 

A dwarf grower. 
Large, cupped, and full. Perfect 

and fragrant. 
Very large, globular, and full. 

Very fragrant, and occasionally 

tinted with purple. 
Medium size, cupped, and full. 

Very pretty, free bloomer, and 

fragrant. 
Large, expanded, and double. A 

dwarf grower, free bloomer, and 

fragrant. 
Medium size, cupped, and very 

double. Free grower. 
Medium size, cupped, and full. 
Large, cupped, and full. Very 

fragrant. 
Large and double. A free bloom- 
er and very fragrant. 
Large, compact, and full. Showy 

and very fragrant. 
Large, expanded, and very double. 

Very fine foliage. 
Small, cupped, and double. Very 

fragrant and distinct. 
Medium size, cupped, and double. 

Spotted with chocolate color. 
Large, compact, and full. Tinged 

with lilac. Very fine. 
Large, cupped, and full. Tinged 

with white. A strong grower. 
Small, cupped, and very double. 

Centre pinkish blush. 
Very large, globular, and double. 

Perfect form. 
Large, expanded, and double. 

Very distinct. Sometimes tint- 
ed with rosy crimson. 
Medium size, expanded, and very 

double. A profuse bloomer, and 

shaded with lilac. 



84 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES— Continued. 


Name. 


Color. 


Description. 


Jeanne Hatchette, 


Lilac rose,.... 
Pink'h blush, 

Dark rose,.... 
Rosy crimson 

Pale rose, , 

Glossy rosy 

lilac. 
Crimson, 

Blush .. 


Very large, globular, and very 

double. Fragrant, and a strong- 
grower. 
Large, globular, and full. Very 

fragrant, and desirable. 
Medium size, double, and very 

fragrant. 
Medium size, full, and fragrant. 

Occasionally spotted with blush. 

Very pretty. 
Large, compact, and very double. 

Erect habit and dense foliage. 

Small, very pretty, and a profuse 
bloomer. 

Large, cupped, and full. Very 
fragrant and desirable. 

Large, expanded, and double. 
Very rich. Shaded with dark 
purple. 

Large, cupped, and full. Centre 
rosy. 

Large, compact, and full. Lilac 
tinted, fine habit, and very 
fragrant. 

Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, shaded with rich 
purple, and very superb. 

Medium size, compact, and full. 
Centre rosy pink. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Striped with red. 

Medium size, expanded, and very 
double. Spotted with white. 

Small, cupped, and full. Rather 
delicate. 

Large, cupped, aDd double. Tint- 
ed with purple. 

Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
ble. Blooms finely late in the 
season. 

Medium size, cupped, and double. 
Marbled. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
Occasionally striped, but more 
frequently only mottled with 
white. 




Lady Seymour, 




Flon. 
Gloire des. 


Laurence de Montmorency, 
Louis Philippe, 




Minerva, 


Rosy pink, ... 
Bril. crimson, 
Blush, .. 


Mogador, 


Crimson Superb. 
Palmyre, 


Blush Perpetual. 
Striped Perpetual. 


Pale flesh,.... 
Bright rose,.. 
Bright crim., 
Deep crimson 
Blush pink,.. 

Violet & crim. 
Etosy pink,... 


Princesse Royale, 




Requien, 


Saint Fiacre, 


Striped Crimson Perpetual, 
Captain Renard. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 

PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES— Continued. 



85 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 


Triomphe de Rouen, 


Rosy blush,.. 
Pur. crimson, 
Deep pink, .... 


Medium size, compact, and full. 

Very pretty. 
Medium size, cupped, and very 

double. 
Large, cupped, nnd full. Tinted 

■with lilac blush, strong grower, 

and blooming in large clusters. 




Youlande d'Aragon, 



ROSA MICHROPHYLLA.— The Small-leaved Rose. 

The plants of this family are very beautiful, being more distinct 
both in their flowers and habit than either of the other classes. 
They are perfectly hardy, delighting in a dry, rich, warm, sandy 
soil. Several varieties of this group are well adapted for cover- 
ing verandahs, buildings, &c, combining many different colors. 
Some possess a delightful fragrance, and, being generally strong 
growers, may be trained in any desired form. They may be pro- 
pagated by either of the methods enumerated, but layering is 
deemed preferable, as being the safest and quickest mode for 
securing handsome and well-formed plants. 



Name. 


Color. 


Description. 




Yell' sk white, 
Pale rose, 

Bright rose, . . 


Large, cupped, and double. Very 
fragrant, and a very strong 
grower. 

Large, cupped, and very double. 
The calix is thick and prickly 
before expanding, resembling 
the chinquapin, and makes a 
fine standard plant if properly 
trimmed. A moderate grower. 

Medium size, cupped, and very 


White Michrophylla. 
Magnolia Rose. 


Pink Michrophylla. 




double. 



86 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

ROSA MICHROPHYLLA— Continued. 



Name. 



Cramoisis, 

Violet Cramoisie. 

Rubra Violacea. — Rosea. 
Du Luxembourg, 

Purpurea, 

Rubra, , 

Triomphe de Macketeaux, . 
Pourpre du Luxembourg 



Color. 



Purpl'hpink, 

Deep pink,... 
Pur. crimson, 
Rosy crimson 
Blush, 



Description. 



Double and cupped. Luxuriant 
growth and small calix. 

Large, cupped, and full. Moderate 
grower, and shaded with blush. 

Very large and cupped, with small 
calix. 

Large, globular, and full. A mod- 
erate grower, tinted with blush. 

Medium size, cupped, and full. 
Edged with rose color. 



ROSA MOSCHATA.— The Musk-scented Rose. 

This family received its name from the peculiar, and to many- 
disagreeable, odor which they exhale when in flower, and em- 
brace single, semi-double, and a few very double varieties. They 
are more or less tender, and, in bleak and unsheltered situations, 
should be protected by coverings of straw or the branches of ever- 
greens. The treatment recommended for the Noisettes is adapted 
to this class of the rose. Being rapid growers, they make hand- 
some pillar roses. . They require a dry situation and rich soil. 



Name. 



Color. 



Description. 



Herbemonth's Musk Cluster 



Pure white, 



Nivea, 



White, . 



Princesse de Nassau, . 



Yel'sh white, 



Ranunculus Musk Cluster, Pure white,.. 
New Double Musk Cluster.] 



Very large and double. Bloom- 
ing the whole season, in clusters. 

Large, cupped, and single. A 
strong grower, and shaded with 
rose color. 

Very double and cupped. Par- 
takes strongly of the musk odor. 

Perfectly double, but does not 
open well in moist weather. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 87 



EXPLANATION OF TERMS 

EMPLOYED IN DESCRIBING THE ROSES ENUMERATED. 



Having used certain terms in describing the plants enumerated 
in the preceding pages, we deem it due to the general reader that 
we should explain, viz : 

Small, signifying from l£ to 2 inches in diameter. 

Medium size, " 2 to2| " 

Large, " %\ to 3| " 

Very large, " 3 \ to 5 " 

Single. — Such as have but one row of petals. 

Semi-double. — Having from two to five rows of petals. 

Double. — Having more than five rows of petals, yet showing the stamens 
in the centre of the flower. 

Very double. — Possessing a sufficient number of petals to hide the central 
stamens. 

Full. — Where the petals are placed closely together. 
Globular. — Assuming that form, and remaining closed, or nearly so, till 
nearly full blown. 

Cupped. — Where the outer petals stand erect or are incurved. The inner 
petals being smaller than the outer, forming a hollow in the centre like a cup. 

Compact. — Where the petals are stiff and upright, the centre being nearly 
level with the circumference ; more frequently above than below it. 

Expanded. — Where the outer petals, instead of being erect, lie nearly hori- 
zontal, generally turning back upon the flower-stalks in the last stage. 

Perfect, fine, good, and beautiful. — Where the variety or form are very 
elegant. 

Dwarf. — Humble or low growth. 

Erect. — Whose shoots rise perpendicular. 

Branching. — Where the shoots have the tendency to branch from the cen- 
tre of the plant. 

Moderate. — Such as form neat and compact bushes. 

Strong and vigorous. — Such as are rapid and robust growers. 

Standards. — From three to five feet in height. 



THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



SELECT LIST OF ROSES. 

In the foregoing lists, we have embraced such only as we feel 
assured, with proper care and attention, will prove every way 
worthy of cultivation. We might readily have extended the same 
by hundreds, but as we propose to point out to the Amateur such 
plants only as are worthy of a place in every collection, we have 
confined ourself to those enumerated. There are several recent 
additions, whose merits are yet to be tested. Among such a num- 
ber of beautiful varieties, where there are so many lovely forms 
and colors, dazzling the eye and attracting the senses, the inexpe- 
rienced Amateur, no doubt, will find it impossible to choose. In 
order to assist him in making a judicious selection of plants from 
the multitude which compose the groups and subdivisions of the 
rose family, we have carefully selected the following choice varie- 
ties from those enumerated, which will be found to possess, in an 
eminent degree, the beauty, fragrance, and varied attractions 
of the rose, viz : 

MULTIFLORA ROSES. 

Laura Davoust, deep pink to pure white. Russelliana, crimson. 

MOSS ROSES. 

Crested Provins, rosy pink. Panachee Pleine, white or flesh. 

Crimson Pompon, rosy violet. Princesse Adelaide, rosy blush. 

Laffay's Perpetual White Moss, white. Rouge, crimson. 

NOISETTE ROSES. 

Aimee Vibert, pure white. Jaune Desprez, rosy buff. 

Cloth of Gold, liyht yellow. Lamarque, greenish white. 

Comtesse Odoisee, pink. La Pactole, pale sulphur. 

Couque de Venus, creamy white. Ophire, redish copper. 

Dona Maria, rose. Solfatare, sulphur yellow. 

Fellenburg, pale red. Triomphe de la Duchere, pale rose. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 



TEA-SCENTED ROSES. 



Adam, deep blush. 
Bougere, salmon. 
Caroline, rosy pink. 
Clara Sylvain, pure white. 
Devoniensis, creamy white. 
Eliza Sauvage, creamy yellow. 



Gobault, rosy blush. 
Jaune Panache, light straw. 
Josephine Malton, creamy white. 
La Sylphide, creamy white. 
Madame Desprez, pure white. 
Safrano, saffron. 



BENGAL CHLNESE, OR DAILY ROSES. 



Archduke Charles, bright rose. 
Beau Carmin, dark crimson purple. 
Carmin d' Yebles, bright carmine. 
Cramoisie Superieur, velvety crimson. 
Eugene Beauharnais, rich crimson. 
Hortensia, blush pink. 



Icterose, creamy white. 

Madame Breon, bright rose. 

Madame de Crequi, blush. 

Mellez, pure white. 

Reine de Lombardie, bright rosy red. 

Virginale, blush. 



MINIATURE ROSES. 
Alba, pure white. La Miniature, bright pink. 

BOURBON ROSES. 



Armosa, deep pink. 
Boquet de Flore, bright carmine. 
Crimson Globe, purplish crimson. 
Dupetit Thouars, dark crimson. 
Hennequin, rosy crimson. 
Julie Deloynes, flesh. 



Madame Lacharme, white. 
Mrs. Bosanquet, creamy white. 
Paul Joseph, purplish crimson. 
Queen of the Bourbons, fawn. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, del. blush. 
Scipio, purplish crimson. 



HYRRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 



Aubernon, rosy crimson. 
Clementine Seringe, rosy pink. 
Commandant Fournier, crimson. 
Comte de Montalivet, violet red. 
Comtesse de Rambuteau, peach. 
Docteur Marx, rich carmine. 



Duchesse de Praslin, blush. 
Geant des Batailles, bril. crimson. 
Grande Capitaine, crimson scarlet. 
Lady Alice Peel, rosy crimson. 
La Reine, rose. 
Prince Albert, crimson purple. 



PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES. 



Belle Faber, rosy crimson. 

Bernard, salmon. 

Claire du Chatelet, rosy pink. 



Josephine Antoinette, pinkish blush. 
Laurence de Montmorency, glossy 
rosy lilac. 



90 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

Deuil de Dumont d' Urville, purplish Minerva, rosy pink, 

crimson. Requien, blush pink. 

Eliza Balcome, white. Triomphe de Rouen, rosy blush. 

Isaure Lablee, pink. Youlande d'Aragon, dark pink. 

SMALL-LEAVED ROSES. 
Alba Odorata, yellowish white. Carnea, pale rose. 

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES. 
Ilerbemonth's Musk Cluster, lohite. Princesse de Nassau, yellowish white. 



MILDEW. 

Where extremes of temperature prevail, this disease is sure to 
make its appearance, generally in July and August. The follow- 
ing mixture will prove an effective remedy for its removal. To 
one-cpiarter of a pound of unslacked lime, add one pound of flour- 
of-sulphur, poring two gallons of boiling water over the same, 
and cover close for one hour. Stir the whole well together, until 
the sulphur sinks to the bottom. Let it settle, and pour off for 
use. One quart of this mixture to one gallon of water will be 
sufficiently strong for this purpose. Apply by the syringe. 



DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS. 

Among the most injurious and troublesome of all insects, 
against whose depredations the Amateur has to contend, are the 
Rose-bug and Rose-worm. Unlike some of his other unwelcome 
annual visitors, they can only be removed by hand picking. The 
former will be found upon the blossom as soon as it expands; the 
latter on the bud. 

The Green-fly is also very troublesome, but may be readily ex- 
terminated by a few applications, with the syringe, of tobacco - 
water or whale-oil soap-suds, in the evening, and with pure water 
again on the following morning. If the latter be omitted, the 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 91 

remedy may prove more destructive than the disease. One- 
half ounce of whale-oil soap to one gallon of water will be suffi- 
ciently strong for this purpose. If tobacco-water be used, two 
ounces of tobacco, boiled in one gallon of water, and allowed to 
cool, will be effective. Having rid the plants of these trouble- 
some pests, stir the soil about their roots, which will tend to 
refresh them. 

The Slug, unlike the bug and the worm, confines his ravages 
to the foliage of the plant, and will destroy nearly every leaf if not 
checked in his devastations. Whale-oil soap-suds, applied by the 
syringe or watering-pot, over the foliage of the plant, will effect 
this object. They are also fond of the ends of young shoots 
of some other plants, (Carnations, &c.,) and are very troublesome 
where they abound. Where the above remedy is not at hand, 
if a hair-pencil, dipped in linseed-oil, be drawn around the shoots 
of the plants, once in two days, the Slug will not attack them. 
Few insects can endure oil, and the smallest quantity generally 
will stop their ravages. 

The Fly is also very destructive in some localities. During 
the months of July and August, the tops of the young shoots 
of roses are frequently seen to droop. This is caused by the rav- 
ages of a fly. As soon as perceptible, the ends of the shoots 
should be cut off from eight to ten inches, when the Grub, its 
offspring, will be found imbedded in the centre. The Fly is sup- 
posed to lay its eggs on some of the young wood near the ground, 
in May or June. If the shoots attacked are not cut off and 
destroyed, the grub will make his escape, under a leaf, near the 
top, make for the ground, and live to repeat his depredations the 
ensuing year. 



PROTECTING TENDER ROSES. 

In covering roses for the winter, be careful not to injure them 
by binding whatever is used for the purpose too tight about the 
branches, for it is not warmth you wish to impart, but to afford 



92 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

them protection against sudden changes of temperature, especi- 
ally against alternating freezing and thawing. Branches of ever- 
greens should be used for this purpose, and are preferable to 
straw. If the latter be used, and put on closely, it is very apt to 
sweat, which should be avoided. In order to secure partial access 
to the air and light, they should be placed moderately loose over 
the plant, yet sufficiently secure to prevent them from being dis- 
placed by high winds. 



GRAFTING-WAX. 



To two ounces of bees-wax add one ounce of beef-tallow, four 
ounces of common pitch, and twelve ounces of Burgundy pitch. 
Melt all together, and apply when in a fluid state with a brush. 
Be careful not to apply the same when too hot. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 93 



GARDEN PLANTS. 



BOX EDGING, 

Has a beautiful appearance if kept neatly trimmed and regular, 
especially in winter, and adds much to the beauty of the garden. 
The dwarf variety (Buxus suffruticosa) is generally employed 
for this purpose, and may be readily propagated from cuttings or 
slips, early in the spring or October. The latter is preferable, 
for, if ordinary care be taken in planting, it will be sufficiently 
rooted to encounter the scorching rays of the sun, which, in dry 
seasons particularly, burns and frequently destroys that set out in 
the spring. Any common garden soil will answer for this pur- 
pose. If to be raised from cuttings, in the spring, they should be 
planted in a bed to themselves, where they can have shade and 
waterings; for, when planted as edging, if some should fail to 
grow, the same becomes uneven and full of gaps, and will be 
found rather difficult to get in good shape again. To perform the 
operation, the margin of the beds having been properly leveled, 
excavate a drill from four to six inches deep, according to the 
length of the cuttings or slips to be inserted, and, if the former ? 
place them within half an inch of each other, in alternate rows, 
gently pressing them in an upright position. Draw the soil up 
around them, and moderately press the same. To form a neat 
edging, the operator should be careful to have the cuttings or 
slips equally distributed. In planting slips, the alternate row 
may be dispensed with ; in which case, the tops should be slightly 
pressed into each other, so as to form an unbroken and even 
surface. Both cuttings and slips should be deprived of all leaves 
as far up from the bottom as they are to be inserted in the soil, 
which may be easily effected by drawing them gently through the 



94 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

Land. When inserted, draw the earth up nearly to the top of the 
slips, pressing neatly and closely the same, and cut any inequali- 
ties of the top even. Give moderate waterings in dry weather 
during the first season after planting. Where parallel lines are to 
be set out, a garden-line should be used to )ay off the ground. In 
trimming, the month of October should be selected. 



CARNATION PINKS. 

These beautiful plants are very desirable acquisitions to the 
garden, and when well grown, the beauty and odor of their flow- 
ers cannot be surpassed. They should have a rich deep soil, and 
may be propagated from seed, pipings, or layers. The latter will 
be found preferable to either of the former and the most successful 
method. In layering, the lowest young shoots should be selected. 
Pull off the under leaves and cut a small slit or gash upward at 
a joint on the under side Lay that portion in the earth two or 
three inches deep, as the plant will admit, and peg the shoot 
down with a small hooked stick, keeping the top upright above 
ground and the slit part open, bending it carefully so as not to 
break at the incision. Press the soil gently around with the fing- 
ers, and cut off about half an inch of the top of the shoot. The 
sap will granulate at the wound and throw out roots, and, if kept 
moderately moist, in about four or six weeks, they will be suffi- 
ciently rooted to sever from the parent plant, when they may be 
transplanted or permitted to remain until the ensuing spring. In 
the latter case, they should be protected with leaves, straw, or the 
branches of evergreens. If desired, they may be planted in pots 
as soon as they have taken root and placed in the pit, where they 
can be kept with perfect safety, if air be given them in mild 
weather. As soon as the plants are done flowering, is the proper 
time to select for this purpose. 

The operation of piping consists in planting detached parts 
of the young shoots, which either pull out of the pipe or cut 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 95 

off below in proper lengths. Pull off the under leaves and cut 
each shoot clean to a lower joint, cutting that part even at the 
end, and shorten the top leaves even. Place them in a bed, bor- 
der, or pots of good soil, an inch or two apart, inserted down to 
their leaves. Water and shade from the sun. If covered close 
with hand-glasses, they will not only root sooner, but much more 
effectively. The month of July should be selected for this pur_ 
pose. In a month or six weeks they will be sufficiently rooted 
for transplanting. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

This old and much-esteemed fall flower, blooming when most 
of the summer bloomers have taken their leave, has been greatly 
improved in appearance by hybridization. So unlike and distinct 
are some of the new varieties as to be scarcely recognised as the 
same flower. Many of the dwarf varieties resemble the quilled 
China Asters. They are all perfectly hardy, and may be propa- 
gated by any of the ordinary methods. The dwarf varieties, oc- 
cupying a very small space, well merit a place in every collection 
of plants. If the tops of the strongest shoots be selected for cut- 
tings, in April or May, and planted in the open ground, their 
tops pinched off to within five or six joints, and kept moderately 
watered, they will form handsome and strong-flowering plants. 
Being strong feeders, they should have a rich strong soil to enable 
them to flower in perfection. As soon as the plants show their 
flower-buds, they should be securely staked. If one-third of their 
buds be pinched off, the remainder will more than compensate for 
their abscence. 



DAHLIA. 



The Dahlia, particularly when planted early in the season, is 
frequently attacked, and their beauty greatly impaired, by the red 



96 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

spider ; their foliage being often entirely destroyed by these trou- 
blesome insects. The following mixture will serve to rid the 
plants of this pest of the garden. To a half pound of the flour-of- 
sulphur add a half pound of unslacked lime, mix well together in 
three pints of water, and boil for ten minutes, stirring it well when 
boiling. Remove from the fire, and, when settled, bottle for use. 
To one part of this mixture add two parts of water, and apply 
the same to the under part of the leaves by the syringe, until the in- 
sect has disappeared. The young shoots are also frequently attack- 
ed by earwigs. If any common oil be applied to the stalk near the 
ground, it will generally serve to free the plant from these vora- 
cious insects. If licmid manure be occasionally applied to Dah- 
lias, it will add to the profusion and beauty of their bloom. 



GERANIUMS 

This family of plants, with proper culture, will amply repay in 
the profusion and beauty of their bloom the labor bestowed upon 
them. Very exciting composts should not be used for these 
plants, for where they make a rapid growth, they do not produce 
their bloom in the same perfection as when kept within proper 
bounds. They should have a soil composed of one-half pure 
loam, one-fourth leaf-mould, and one-fourth well-rotted manure, 
well incorporated together. Excessive moisture is very injurious, 
causing the leaves to fall, and gives the plant the appearance 
of mildew. When crowded, some of the lateral branches should 
be thinned out. Greraniumns may be propagated from seed, cut- 
tings, or slips of the root. If placed in a shady and dry position, 
cuttings will readily root in three or four weeks. Plant out in 
June. 



HYDRANGEA. 



These beautiful and showy plants may readily be propagated 
from cuttings, layers, or divisions of the root, in the ordinary 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 97 

manner. They delight in a rich loamy soil, and should be 
planted in a shady and moist situation. They are quite hardy. 
The wood should bo quite ripe to insure success by either method 
of propagation. The colors of these plants may, to a certain ex- 
tent, be varied by artificial means. The rose-colored variety, 
(Hydrangea uortensis,) by means of a mixture of iron with the 
soil they grow in, may be changed to a blue tint. To attain this 
result, iron-filings, or the refuse which accumulates on a grind- 
stone, should be employed. 



LILIES. 



This large and handsome family of flowering bulbs, delighting 
in a soil composed of well-rotted manure, leaf-mould, and sandy 
loam, in equal parts, may be propagated generally from offsets, 
and some varieties from seed. Most of the species are quite 
hardy, but if covered with well-rotted manure, will bloom much 
stronger. They generally flower in July and August, and should 
be well watered in dry seasons till done blooming. When a dis- 
position for dormancy is evinced, watering should be dispensed 
with; and, if in pots, the stalks cut down, and the bulbs removed 
to some place protected against frost, there to remain until the 
season for flowering. As soon as the foliage begins to decay, the 
roots may be divided. If delayed until the foliage commences to 
grow, the bloom will be greatly weakened. 



PETUNIAS. 

Blooming from June to November, and every shoot being laden 
with flowers, the Petunia should have a place in every garden. 
Some varieties, when once established, will sow themselves rather 
too plentifully over the garden. The better sorts should only be 
cultivated, and will amply repay, in the beauty and profusion 
of their flowers, the labor bestowed upon them. They can easily 



98 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

be propagated from cuttings, from June to October, and, if planted 
in the pit, or a warm shady border, under hand-glasses, will root 
quite freely. If desired for planting out the ensuing spring, they 
should be struck in September, and when sufficiently rooted, pot- 
ted off and placed in the pit to be kept through the winter. They 
should have a rich sandy loam. 



VERBENAS. 

The graceful habit, brilliancy of colors, and the long continu- 
ance of their bloom, render these beautiful plants a valuable ac- 
quisition to the Flower-garden. They should never be staked, as 
it destroys the beauty of the plant. When permitted to run on the 
ground, if the soil be moderately good, they will generally propa- 
gate themselves to a very great extent, nearly every eye in contact 
with the soil taking root and forming handsome and strong-bloom- 
ing plants. When attacked by the green-fly or mildew, the reme- 
dies recommended for roses should be applied. They may readily 
be propagated from cuttings in the ordinary manner. Some vari- 
eties will live through the winter if covered with straw or litter, 
but they do not do as well as young plants set out in the spring. 



YUCCA. 



The beauty of these plants when in flower must be seen to be 
properly appreciated. They are perfectly hardy, delighting in a 
rich light soil, and may readily be propagjited by dividing the 
roots in April or May. Retaining their deep green foliage 
through the winter, they form very ornamental and desirable 
plants, and merit a place in every collection. 



HOUSE PLANTS IN "WINTER. 

In taking plants in the house, the object is twofold, protection 
against frost and to have them bloom in winter. Plants designed 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 09 

for winter flowering, should be potted off in summer, placed in a 
shady position, and permitted to rest, by which treatment they 
will gain strength. Plants which bloom in summer must rest in 
winter, and when not allowed to bloom in summer, become artifi- 
cially changed. When housed, the essential requisites to enable 
them to bloom well are light, moisture, temperature, and clean- 
liness. 

The plants should be placed in such a position where each por- 
tion can receive its due share of light, or they will grow strag- 
gling, weak, and out of shape, by bending toward the light. 

In order to secure a proper drainage, the pots should have pieces 
of broken flower-pots, charcoal, &c, placed in the bottom. This 
should be done particularly for geraniums and roses.' Different 
plants require different degrees of moisture. The aquatic plants 
require an abundance, while others should only have a sufficiency 
to keep the soil moderately moist. Give water in proportion to 
the wants of the plant. 

Sudden changes of temperature should be particularly guarded 
against. Too much heat destroys the foliage, as well as the buds. 
In open weather, give fresh air to the plants, and keep the soil 
loosened in the tops of the pots. 

Should the green-fly make his appearance, place the plants in 
such a situation that they can be fumigated with tobacco-smoke. 
Twenty minutes will serve for this purpose. Brush the plants 
gently, cleanse the pots, and give fresh air. The tops of the 
plants should be sprinkled three times a week, for it not only 
serves to keep them clean, but greatly strengthens them. If these 
precautions be adhered to, the bloom will amply repay the labor 
bestowed upon them. 

Where plants are housed merely for protection, they may be 
safely kept by placing them in any ordinary room, having a suffi- 
ciency of light, and in which the temperature does not fall below 
40°. In open weather, give moderate waterings. More plants 
are lost in house culture from excessive heat and the want of fresh 
air and light than those lost by other causes. 



100 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



BULBS IN POTS 



The soil used for this purpose should be composed of leaf-mould, 
loam, and well-rotted manure, in equal parts. When the pots are 
filled, place the bulb in the centre, and gently press into the soil 
until it becomes nearly covered. Place in a cool situation to assist 
their rooting. If deprived of light, they will root more readily. 
If moderately watered when planted and placed in a tolerably 
damp situation, they will not require watering until the tops begin 
to shoot. As soon as they commence to grow, light and moderate 
waterings are essential to the perfection of their flowers. Six-inch 
pots should be employed for this purpose. When done flowering, 
preserve in the same manner as described for spring and summer- 
flowering bulbs. They may be planted from the first of November 
to the middle of December. 



BULBS IN GLASSES. 

The glasses should be filled with rain or river water to within 
about a quarter of an inch of the bottom of the bulb, as too much 
moisture, before the roots protrude, often causes the bulb to de- 
cay. The glasses should be placed in a light, but cool situation, 
until the roots have grown half the length of the glass, when they 
may be placed where wanted to bloom. The water should be 
changed twice a week; and, when the bulbs have finished making 
roots, they may be kept warm or cold, as the bloom is required in 
succession. All roots which have once bloomed in glasses, should 
be planted out as soon as the flowering is over, in order that they 
may recover. By this method, they can generally be bloomed 
every alternate year in glasses. When bulbs are backward in 
making leaves, they may be greatly assisted by filling the glasses 
with warm water. The bulbs should set steady in the glass. Raw 
cotton will serve for this purpose. 



AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 101 



CACTI. 

A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, aud well-rotted manure, with 
sand duly incorporated together, will serve for the successful cul- 
ture of these beautiful flowering plants. The pots should, in every 
instance, have broken fragments of flower-pots placed in the bot- 
tom, to insure proper drainage; for without it, no success can be 
reasonably expected. When they are done flowering, thin out the 
least promising of the old and young wood, and place in a moder- 
ately warm situation until they start growing freely. Reduce the 
allowance of water gradually as they perfect their growth. When 
they have done growing, and the wood feels firm, the pots may 
be placed in some shady but airy place, protected from the drip 
of other plants or dampness, aud kept clean of moss. Plants 
managed in this manner, will generally flower well. The Cacti 
may readily be propagated from cuttings and by grafting. To 
perform the latter operation, take a portion of a shoot, having at 
least four or five eyes, and shape the lower end into a wedge-like 
form. Cut off the end of a shoot, and make an incision in the top 
of the same sufficiently large to admit the graft. Insert the graft 
to the depth of a half inch, and secure with a small wooden peg. 
Large plants, having several different varieties grafted upon them, 
present a beautiful appearance when in flower. 



AMATEURS' GUIDE 

AND 

VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL; 

CONTAINING 
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 

FOE THB 

Successful |lr0tettt0tt of all (Mimrrg § cgcfaMcs 



USUALLY 



CULTIVATED FOR TABLE USE. 



CAREFULLY COMPILED FROM VARIOUS RELIABLE SOURCES 

BY JOHN T . C. CLARK. 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 

PUBLISHED BY TAYLOR & MAURY. 

1856. 



VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 



In the cultivation of the Garden, we experience a peculiar and 
innocent pleasure, which is increased in proportion to the know- 
ledge acquired and the labor bestowed. Herein is food for the 
soul, the mind, and the heart, where all may obtain an abundant 
supply from the bounties of Nature, as developed at their own 
doors, and which, more than any other pursuit, afford rational 
and profitable pleasures, enabling us to find happiness in our own 
homes. "Cultivating the soil is like Charity — doubly blessed, in 
sowing and reaping." All systems of gardening should be con- 
ducted with discrimination. While proper attention is paid to the 
general directions, due allowance should be made for the difference 
of soil, situation, and climate, suited to each. Inattention to these 
important points, is the cause of want of success which proves so 
discouraging to the inexperienced Amateur. Much depends on 
the selection of good seed, for without them, all efforts will prove 
fruitless, and a barren waste will be the reward if this all-import- 
ant object is not secured. 

In order to place the means within the reach of all who are 
deterred from cultivating a garden by the want of practical know- 
ledge, we have embraced in the following pages every requisite 
detail for the successful cultivation of the Vegetable-garden, care- 
fully compiled from the "Encyclopedia of Gardening," "Lan- 
dreth's Rural Register," and other various reliable sources. In 
many cases their language has been employed, but it has not been 
thought necessary to mark the quotations. Should they be in- 
strumental in enabling any to enjoy the exquisite pleasure of par- 
taking of the vegetables raised by their own labor, the object 
of the compiler will be accomplished. 



106 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



SITUATION OF THE GARDEN. 



A proper degree of shelter from cutting winds and full exposure 
to the sun should be secured. The ground should have a gentle 
declivity towards the south, inclining rather to the east, in order 
that it may receive the benefit of the morning sun. A northern 
exposure is unfavorable for general purposes, it being always cold 
and late. It must be admitted, however, that it is not without its 
advantages in summer, by retarding many kinds of vegetables 
which would otherwise mature their seed before they had acquired 
a size sufficient for culinary purposes. Salads, spinach, and cauli- 
flowers are brought to perfection in northern exposures, when they 
will make very slight progress if exposed to the full power of the 
sun. In such situations, peas and many other vegetables yield 
more abundantly during the hot summer months, particularly in 
dry seasons. There should never be any trees of a considerable 
height on the south side of a garden, for, during the winter and 
early in the spring, they shade the garden when every sunbeam is 
valuable. On the east side also the trees should be removed, so 
as to admit the early morning rays of the sun. 



PROPERTIES OF SOIL. 

The soil best adapted for general garden purposes should be of a 
rich loamy texture, dry, mellow, and capable of being worked at 
all seasons, and from two to three feet deep. A loam of a mid- 
dling texture, rather inclining to sand, will be found the most 
suitable for the majority ofkitchen vegetables. If the soil be too 
strong, the roots of the plants push weakly into it, and are apt to 
canker and perish. If too light, and at the same time poor, the 
roots of vegetables will wander in search of food, and may be 
unable to collect a sufficient quantity for their support. Strong 
and stubborn clays should be avoided, being the most unfit of all 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 107 

others, as few vegetables will prosper in them. Gravelly soils are 
also unfit for garden purposes, being generally sterile and not 
readily enriched by manures, the finer particles being washed 
off by the rains. Light sandy soils are not without their advan- 
tages, because they are much warmer, and by affording a still less 
quantity of moisture, the plants will not grow so luxuriantly, and 
therefore be much sooner fit for use than those grown on strong 
clayey soils. Early spring and winter vegetables are not only thus 
earlier on sandy soils than upon clayey, but are also much more 
capable of resisting the frost. 



PROPERTIES OF MANURES. 

The manures in general use are numerous. Horse manure is 
considered the best for general garden purposes. The manure 
of cattle, if slightly fermented, is well adapted for light, hot soils. 
It is also well calculated for soils of a dry, absorbent nature, as it 
retains its moisture for a greater length of time than most others. 
Green vegetable matter forms an excellent manure. Bird offal is 
a powerful manure, and should only be used as a compound, or 
if used as a simple manure, great care must be observed in its ap- 
plication. Soot is also a very strong manure, and should only be 
used in dry weather, and applied to the surface of the soil. Wood- 
ashes, if not too much burnt, is considered to be the most lasting 
manure, and, when used for turnips, is supposed to protect them 
against the ravages of the fly. Lime is an excellent manure, but 
should never be applied with animal manure, unless it be too 
rich, or for the purpose of preventing noxous effluvia. Manures, 
whether animal or mineral, are of such importance to vegetation 
that all possible diligence should be used in the collection and pre- 
paration of them for the different purposes for which they may be 
required. By a proper application of them, founded on correct 
principles, the worst soil may not only be improved, but rendered 
fit for the production of every vegetable that is usually cultivated 
for the table. 



108 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 



The varieties in italic letters are the same, or essentially so, 
as those in Roman, which immediately precede them. The names 
of the seasons, and not those of the months, have been used; con- 
sequently, seed directed to he planted early in the spring, should 
he sown as soon as winter has departed, whether that he on the 
1st of February in the South, or in March with us. So, likewise, 
of the other seasons. 



ARTICHOKE. 

Cynara Scolymus, Cynara Hortensis, 

French, or oval-headed. Large Globe. 

This vegetable is propagated from seed and oiFsets. If from the 
former, the seed should be sown in rows a foot apart, the middle 
of spring, and thinned to about the same distance as soon as they 
are an inch high. They should be kept clean from weeds, and 
the ground about them worked occasionally during the summer. 
When a year old, transplant to permanent beds, allowing each 
plant two or three feet square of room. They require a very rich 
soil. If propagated from offsets, the old plants should be exam- 
ined for the most healthy, which must be separated with as much 
root as possible. Holes, about fifteen inches in diameter and 
twelve inches deep, must then be made about three feet from each 
other, and filled in with manure. Two or three of the offsets 
should be placed in each hole, six or eight inches apart, and have 
a few inches of the tops trimmed off. Water them occasionally, 
and dig the ground well between them. Protect during winter 
by raising over them a mound of light dry earth. 

The part principally used is the pulpy receptacle in the flower- 
heads, termed the bottom, freed from the bristles or seed-down. 
The tender central leaf-stalk, or mid rib of the leaf, blanched, is 
also used, and by some thought preferable to the cardoon. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 109 



ASPARAGUS. 
Large Green Purple Top. 

There are, it is said, several varieties of Asparagus, but the dif- 
ference mainly arises from the nature of the soil. On strong loamy 
land, the growth is more robust and the shoots more tender than 
on sandy soil. 

In making Asparagus beds, the chief point to be considered is 
to make choice of a proper soil. It should not be wet nor too 
strong, but moderately light and pliable, so that it will readily fall 
to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that receives the 
full sun. The ground intended for Asparagus beds should have a 
large supply of well-rotted manure, laid several inches thick, and 
should be then regularly trenched two or three feet, and the ma- 
nure buried equally in each trench as the process goes on. The 
ground being leveled, it should be divided into beds, four feet and 
a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between the same. Four 
rows of Asparagus should be planted in each bed, ten or twelve 
inches distance being allowed between the plants in the rows, let- 
ting the outside rows of each bed be nine inches from the edge. 
They may be planted only in single rows, two feet and a half dis- 
tant, or in narrow beds containing two rows of roots only. It is 
of very great importance for insuring success in the planting 
of Asparagus to lift the roots carefully, and to expose them to the 
air as short a time as possible. While planting, it will be found 
advisable to keep the roots covered. No plant feels an injury in 
the root more keenly than Asparagus, and from the brittleness 
of the roots when they are once broken, they do not readily shoot 
again. 

The seed of Asparagus should be planted early in the spring. 
Soak them in warm water for twenty-four hours, and drill them 
thinly in rows sufficiently wide apart to admit being worked with 
the hoe. When two years old, they may be transplanted to per- 
manent beds, which should be so situated as to cast off an excess 



110 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

of moisture. They should be planted at least four inches beneath 
the surface, well manured at the time, and annually thereafter. 
The sweetness and tenderness of the shoots depend very much on the 
rapidity of growth, and this is promoted by the richness of the soil. 
During the season of vegetation, they should be carefully weeded, 
and the alleys between the rows frequently hoed and kept loose. 



BEANS. 



2 



English. 9. Royal Dwarf, 
t?„„i,t u an .m>ii White Kidney. 

Ear l^?S n ' 10. EpyYeUowSii Weeks. 

English Horse Bean. * l ■ Chl ™ * ed Ej e , 
Sword Long Pod. Earl y Chma - 



3. Broad Windsor. p0LE; QR KDNNEKS 

bush, or snap shorts. 12. Large Lima, 

4. Early Six Weeks, Butter Bean. 

Early Mohawk. 13. Carolina Sewee, or Saba. 

5. Red Speckled Valentine, 14. Scarlet Runner. 

Red Marrow. 15. Red Cranberry. 

6. Brown Speckled Valentine, 16. White Cranberry. 

Refugee, or thousand to one. 17. White Dutch. 

7. Red French. 18. Wren's Egg, or Horticultural. 

8. Cranberry Bush. 

This vegetable often fails, owing, in a great degree, to the heat 
of summer, causing the blossoms to drop. To obviate this, they 
should be planted as early in the season as possible, as soon as the 
frost is out of the ground. The first crop will be the best, the late 
sown being apt to be destroyed by the heat. For five rows, each 
five yards long, one pint of seed will be enough in early sowings, 
and a quarter of a pint more for late sowings. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, 
are hardy, and may be planted quite early, indeed should be to 
secure crops, as they do not readily support heat. Nos. 4 to 11, 
inclusive, are known as dwarf or bush Beans. The earliest is No. 
4. Nos. 5, 6, and 11, are much esteemed kinds. They may be 
planted for the first and successive crops from the middle of spring 
till the close of summer. The usual mode of culture is in rows, 
two or three in a clump, at intervals of ten to twelve inches. 
The runners require poles. Nos. 12 and 13 are tender, and 12 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. Ill 

particularly so, and should not be planted till the close of spring. 
They may be forwarded by sprouting them in a hot-bed, and trans- 
planting them at the proper time. No. 18 is an excellent snap 
short, or may be shelled when more advanced. 

When desired to be produced between the rows of cabbages or 
kale, it will be found to be more convenient to sow the seed in a 
warm border, and transplant them when about two inches high. 
They should be liberally watered at the time of planting, as well 
as on any subsequent occasion when they may require it. In se- 
lecting a spot to plant Beans, choose where the soil is light and 
tolerably dry. If it be poor, apply a good dressing of well-rotted 
manure, either spread over the entire surface, or placed in the 
drills when drawn out. 



BEETS. 



1. Extra Early Turnip-rooted. 4. Swiss Chard. 

2. Early Turnip-rooted Red. 5. Silesian, or Sugar. 

3. Long Blood-red. 6. Mangel Wurtzel. 

The seed should be sown the middle of spring, in deep, rich, and 
well-manured ground, in drills eighteen inches apart, and from 
eight to ten inches apart in the rows. Two or three seed should 
be put in each place, about half an inch deep. When the plants 
are two or three inches high, the weaker should be drawn out, leav- 
ing but one remaining in each space. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, are esteem- 
ed the best for table use. No. 1 is very early, light colored, and 
valuable as the earliest in the season. No. 2 is somewhat earlier 
than No. 3, equally good for winter use, and may be sown in drills 
from early in the spring till the commencement of summer. The 
leaves of No. 4 are used as Spinach, the mid-rib of the leaf as As- 
paragus, and is cultivated as the common Beet, but requires more 
room. Beets may be transplanted, and will attain to a very good 
size. To preserve for winter use, the roots should be taken up in 
autumn, the leaves cut off within a quarter of an inch of the crown, 
the roots exposed to the sun for a week or more, and then put 
away in some dry place, or packed in sand. 



112 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



BORECOLE. 
1. Dwarf German Greens, or Kale. 2. Scotch Kale. 
Under the head of Borecole is usually classed a large variety 
of the cabbage tribe, known as different kinds of Kale, but very 
distinct in appearance and modes of growth. No. 1 is an excel- 
lent green for winter and spring use. Being dwarf, it is easily 
preserved during severe weather. Sow early in autumn in good 
ground, either broadcast or in drills, and treat as described for 
Winter Spinach. Sow No. 2 in seed-bed middle of spring, and 
transplant and treat as directed for Winter Cabbage. This variety 
of Borecole is of upright growth, and not so well adapted for se- 
vere climates as No. 1. 



BROCOLI. 

1. Purple Cape. 3. Sulphur. 

2. Large Early White. 4. Walcheren. 

The Brocoli produce heads like Cauliflower, in autumn. No. 1 
appears to be the best adapted to our climate. It is the only 
one to be relied on. Sow in seed-bed middle of spring, and trans- 
plant to very rich ground when eight to twelve inches high, and 
manage generally as usual with Winter Cabbage. 



BRUSSEL'S SPROUTS. 

This vegetable is cultivated for the small heads, which spring in 
considerable numbers from the main stem. Much esteemed in 
some parts of Europe, but here it has not received the attention it 
merits. The plant rises up with a very long stem, which has a 
spreading open head at the top, but which sends out from its sides 
great numbers of little cabbages, each being of the size of a large 
walnut. The large leaves should be broken off very early in 
autumn, in order to give the little cabbages room to grow. In 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 113 

November, these begin to be in perfection, and continue an excel- 
lent vegetable throughout the winter. Much care is required' in 
the saving of the seed of this plant. To effect which, the crown 
should be cut off, and the seed-stems and flowers allowed to come 
out nowhere but from the little cabbages themselves. It is most 
likely owing to negligence in this respect, that we scarcely ever 
see such a thing as real Brussel's Sprouts. Sow in seed-bed mid- 
dle of spring, and transplant and manage as with Winter Cabbage. 



CABBAGE. 

1. Early York, 5. Early Battersea, 

Early Mai/. Early Drumhead. 

Early Emperor. 6. Green Curled Savoy. 

Early Heart-shaped. T. Large Drumhead Savoy. 

Early Royal Dwarf. 8. Red Dutch, (for pickling.) 

2. Landreth's Early York. 9. Large Late Drumhead. 

3. Landreth's Large York. 10. Flat Dutch. 
• 4. Early Sugar Loaf. 11. Bergen. 

12. Green Glazed. 

Cabbages will thrive well in any richly-manured soil, provided 
it is not too dry. A stiff clayey soil is more suitable for them than 
a sandy or gravelly one, though the autumn and winter crops may 
probably succeed better when planted in a soil of the latter descrip- 
tion, as those seasons of the year are generally wet. In summer, 
the plants will arrive at maturity sooner in such soils, though they 
be much smaller. The time for sowing the seed is very important, 
and should be regulated according to the time the crop is wanted. 
No. 1 is the earliest. Nos. 2, 3, and 4, follow in quick succession. 
Those named as varieties of No. 1 are so nearly alike, that it is 
difficult to point out the difference. Nos. 2 and 3 are valuable va- 
rieties, of larger growth than No. 1, not quite so early, but more 
robust, and support the heat better. No. 7 is a desirable variety 
for winter use, having the tenderness of the Savoy, with the size 
and firmness of the Drumhead. Nos. 9, 10, and 11, are nearly 
alike, each producing large hard heads, and are cultivated for the 
winter supply. No dependance should be placed in imported Flat 
Dutch or Drumhead Cabbage seed, as they seldom produce a good 



114 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

head. The early and summer varieties are usually sown in seed- 
beds, early in autumn, protected therein, or in cold frames during 
winter, and transplanted early in the spring. Where the climate 
is mild, and the land light and dry, they are planted out in the 
autumn, in which case they head earlier than those put out in the 
spring. Should a supply of plants not have been obtained in au- 
tumn, sow in hot-bed very early in spring, or somewhat later on a 
warm border in the open air. It should be borne in mind that, in 
no case, can fine Cabbage, and especially the earlier kinds, be had 
unless planted in heavily manured and well-tilled land. Heavy or 
strong loamy soils is best adapted to this crop, though deep tillage 
and strong manure will produce good heads on almost any soil The 
autumn and winter varieties should be sown in seed-beds from the 
middle to the end of spring, and transplanted early in summer. 
To have these kinds head early in the autumn, as a succession 
crop, sow at the same time with the early sorts. 

The Cabbage-fly is frequently so voracious as to destroy the 
young plants the moment they appear above ground. A solution 
of tobacco frequently sprinkled over them, or air-slacked lime 
dusted on the leaves when damp, is sometimes effectual. Another 
method is to dust the plants when damp with a mixture composed 
of soot and ashes in equal parts. A solution of whale-oil soap, 
sprinkled over the plants, have resulted favorably. A weak solu- 
tion of common brown or soft-soap would perhaps answer, where 
the former was not obtainable. 

To preserve the heads during winter, bury the stalks and part 
of the head with earth, and, if the weather be very severe, sprinkle 
straw over the same. When the crop has been cut, if the ground 
be not immediately wanted, the stalks should be permitted to stand 
till a crop of sprouts be obtained. Where the ground is required 
for another crop, they may be taken up with balls of earth to the 
roots and planted in a trench in any spare corner of the garden, at 
half a foot apart, always observing to deprive them of all their old 
leaves as soon as the head is cut off, that the young sprouts may 
receive additional nourishment. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 115 



CARDOON. 
Large Solid Stalked. 
The tender stalks of the inner leaves, rendered white and deli- 
cate by earthing up, are used for stewing, and for soups and salad 
in autumn and winter. The seed should be sown early in the 
spring, and, when one year old, transplanted to permanent posi- 
tions, allowing each plant a space of two or three feet square. 



CARROT. 

1. Long Orange. 3. Altringham, or Field. 

l\ Early Horn. 4. Large White, or Field. 

In sowing Carrot seed, it will be proper to observe, that when 

the ground has a disposition to be wet, or is apt to bind, it will be 

found desirable to divide it into beds, four or five feet wide, with 

narrow alleys about one foot wide between the same. The seed 

should be raked in regularly, taking care not to draw the earth up 

in heaps. The seed have numerous forked hairs on their borders, 

by which they adhere, and should be well rubbed between the 

hands, and mixed with dry sand, in order to separate them as 

much as possible previously to sowing. Being very light, a quiet, 

still day should be chosen for sowing. For forty feet of drill, a 

quarter of an ounce is enough, and the same for a bed three feet 

wide and eleven feet long. Nos. 1 and 2 are esteemed the better 

kinds for table use. The Early Horn is an admirable variety, and 

equally good for summer and winter use. Nos. 3 and 4 are grown 

for stock. Though No. 1 is probably as good for that purpose, it 

does not grow quite so large as No. 4, but is more nutritious. 

For domestic use, sow early in spring in drills, in deeply dug and 

well-manured ground. The drills should be twelve or eighteen 

inches apart. When the plants are up a few inches high, weed 

and thin them so as to stand at least six inches from each other, 

except those intended for early use, which may be thinned by 



116 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

drawing the daily supply. To preserve for winter use, remove to 
a cellar, or protect them where they stand. 



CAULIFLOWER. 
1. Early Asiatic. 2. Late Dutch. 

The seed of the early varieties should be sown in seed-beds the 
beginning of autumn, kept in a cold frame, protected from severe 
frost during winter, and transplanted to very rich ground as soon 
as frost ceases. When first put out, hand-glasses, or inverted 
flower-pots, should be placed over the plants at night. The late 
variety matures in autumn, and should be sown at the same time, 
and managed the same as Cape Brocoli, which see. It is not, 
however, so certain to succeed as the Brocoli, which it resembles 
in quality, nor is a better vegetable when obtained. 



CELERY. 

1. White Solid. 3. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted. 

2. Red Solid. 

Early in the spring, prepare a small bed of light rich earth, in 
a warm and moist situation, and convenient to water, in which sow 
the seed for an early crop. Break the mould very fine, as the 
seed is small, and rake the surface even. Sow the seed, but not 
too thickly, and cover with light rich mould, about a quarter of an 
inch deep. Give water freely in dry weather as the plants make 
progress. The plants should be kept thin in the seed-bed, and 
pricked out when fit upon the surface of fresh earth, well manured. 
They should be watered and shaded until they take root; and, in 
drawing from the seed-bed, let some of the strongest plants re- 
main, to be put out for an early drill. They should be planted 
out before they become too strong. If they have acquired a large 
ball of earth and roots, these and the straggling leaves on the 
sides should be cut away, in part, before planting out to remain. 
The transplanting should be repeated at intervals of two or three 



AND VEGETABLE-GAKDEN MANUAL. 117 

weeks, for a succession, until the necessary quantity be set out. 
It is not prudent to surcharge the beds with manure, which some- 
times burns the plants. A safer plan is to put a part on the sur- 
face, around the plants, which, in the course of tillage, becomes 
incorporated with the soil. For the autumnal crop, the white is 
superior in flavor, but the red is better calculated for standing 
through the winter. If long and hard frost be apprehended, a 
sufficient quantity for domestic use should be taken up and placed 
in a bed of sand or light earth, in a shed or cellar. When the 
grouud is deeply frozen, it is sometimes impossible to get it out 
without tearing it to pieces. It may be kept very well for several 
weeks in a cellar. To save the seed of Celery, take one or two 
plants in the spring out of the ridge that stands last and replant it 
in an open place, and they will furnish seed sufficient for several 
years. 

Particular attention should be paid to earthing up Celery. The 
soil should be dry, or it is apt to rot the plants and render them 
unfit for use. As the plants advance in growth, blanch by earth- 
ing up gradually. That intended for late winter and spring use, 
had better not be blanched preparatory to being laid up. 



CHERVIL. 



This vegetable is used in soups and salads, and cultivated after 
the manner of Parsley. When wanted for summer use, sow in 
narrow drills early in the spring, and late in summer for the au- 
tumn and winter supply. 



CORN SALAD, OR LAMB'S LETTUCE. 

Used as a small salad throughout the winter and spring. Sow 
thickly in drills first of autumn, and sprinkle with straw on the 
approach of severe weather. 



118 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



CRESS. 
Cnrled, or Pepper-grass. Broad-leaved Garden. 

Used as a small salad. Sow very thickly in shallow drills on a 
smooth surface, at short intervals throughout the season, and cut 
before it comes into rough leaf. 



CRESS, WATER. 

A running stream of clear water is essential to the cultivation 
of this popular salad. The plants should be inserted in rows, in 
the bed of a stream, and in the direction of the current. The bed 
should be taken up -and replanted occasionally, and the plants kept 
free from mud and other extraneous matters. When the plants 
begin to grow in water one inch and a half deep, they soon check 
the current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches 
above the plants, which is considered the most favorable circum- 
stance in which they can be placed. After they have been cut 
about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener they 
are cut the better. No other plants, and especially the Sium 
nodiflordm, a poisonous plant resembling the Water Cress, should 
be permitted to find their way into the bed. The beds should be 
laid dry two or three times a year, to permit weeds and decayed 
parts to be removed, and vacancies to be filled. 



CUCUMBER. 

1. Early Frame, or Table, 2. Long Green, or Turkey. 

Short Prickly. 3. Gherkin, (for pickling.) 

For early use, plant in hills, on a warm border, the latter end 
of spring, and for a succession crop, on an open compartment. 
For pickles, plant middle of summer, and manage as usual with 
the early kind. No. 1 is a short prickly variety, quite early, and 
productive. No. 2 is the best of the long varieties, principally 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 119 

used for pickling, though many prefer it for slicing. No. 3 is 
used altogether for pickles, and cultivated in the ordinary manner. 
Previous to planting, a shovel full of well-rotted manure should be 
placed in each hill ; after which, four or five seed may he sown 
half an inch deep. One ounce of seed is sufficient for two hundred 
hills. When attacked by the fly, if soot, powdered charcoal, or 
tobacco dust, be sprinkled over the plants, it will generally serve 
to check their ravages. When the plants have made a growth 
of two or three inches, they should be thinned to two or three in a 
hill, the ground carefully hoed, and the earth drawn up around 
them. The ground should be kept free fr*>m weeds, and in very 
dry weather, the plants watered occasionally in the evening. 



CHIVES, OR CIVES. 



A small species of Onion, growing in large tufts. Propagated 
by offsets, and planted in either spring or autumn, in rows ten or 
twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in 
the rows. 



EGG-PLANT. 
1. Large Purple. 2. Early Purple. 

The seed of the Egg-plant must be sown in a hot-bed, early in 
the spring, and the sashes kept down close until the plants come 
up ; after which, a little air should be given in the heat of the day. 
The latter end of spring, if settled warm weather, the plants may 
be set out, about two feet apart, in a rich, warm piece of ground. 
If kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their stems when 
about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. The seed 
do not vegetate freely, and repeated sowing are sometimes ne- 
cessary. As Egg-plants will not grow in the open ground until 
settled warm weather, and are frequently destroyed by frost when 
planted too early, it will be found advisable to transplant them 



120 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

into small pots, and placed in a frame until frost has ceased, when 
they may be turned out and planted, with the balls of earth un- 
broken. In which case, they will soon take root and grow freely. 



ENDIVE. 



1. Curled, 2. Broad-leaved, 

Green and White curled. Batavian, or Scarolle 

The proper season for the sowing of Endive is the latter end 
of spring. If sown much earlier, it generally runs off to seed. 
Sow the seed about half an inch deep, in drills eighteen inches 
apart, and press the earth down closely upon the same. When 
the plants are up, they should be thinned to eighteen inches apart 
in the rows, so that they will stand throughout the bed at eighteen 
inches from each other. The plants which are drawn, if wanted, 
should be transplanted into good ground, the same distance apart, 
and immediately watered. When the plants have attained a mod- 
erate size, they must undergo the process of blanching, which is 
performed as follows : Gather the whole plant up in your hands in 
a conical form, and tie it round with matting, which should go 
several times round the plant, causing it to end so pointedly at the 
top as to prevent the rain or dew from penetrating to the interior. 
Particular care should be observed, in blanching the plants, that 
the leaves are perfectly dry; otherwise, corruption is apt to ensue, 
and the plants entirely spoiled. The great difficulty with Endive 
is to have it for winter use; for, though it is hardy, it will rot 
if kept tied up too long. 



HORSE-RADISH. 

To have this plant fine and in profusion, all that is necessary is 
to select, early in the spring, straight young roots, two or three 
inches long, and plant them one foot apart each way, in rich, 
moderately dry, loose soil, keeping the ground hoed and free from 
weeds. On the arrival of cold weather, remove such as may be 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 121 

required for winter use to some sheltered place, or cover them 
with litter as they stand, that they may not be frozen in. 



INDIAN CORN. 

1. Sweet, or Sugar. 4. White Flint, (early and late.) 

2. Early Canada. 5. Cooper's Prolific. 

3. Early York, 6. Tuscarora. 

Adam's Early. *l. White Flour. 

The early varieties of Corn intended for boiling when young, 
should be planted the middle of spring, in hills four feet apart, or 
in drills. A shovel full of well-rotted manure should be placed in 
each hill, before the seed are planted, and after the plants are up 
stroug, scatter a handful of wood-ashes around each hill. The 
ground should be dug deeply between the rows when the plants 
are about eighteen inches high. No. 1 is the best table Corn. 
Nos. 2 and 3 are the earliest. No. 5 is a productive kind for farm 
culture. To grow No. 1 of large size, and in full perfection, the 
ground should be in good condition and recently manured. For a 
succession crop, plant the latter end of spring. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
This plant may be readily propagated by cutting the roots into 
sets, with two eyes each, and planting them, early in spring, in 
the same manner as Potatoes. To have them in perfection, they 
should be hoed frequently, and the ground kept loose around 
them. Care should be taken to gather them out clean when dig- 
ging for use, as the smallest particle left will grow and encumber 
the ground, without producing a crop worth standing. 



LEEK. 
Large London, — Scotch, or Flag. 
The seed should be sown as early in the spring as the weather 
and the ground will permit, in drills of fine earth, about an inch 



122 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

deep, and of a sufficient distance apart to admit of a small hoe. 
Keep the ground clean and loose around the plants, and trans- 
plant the middle of summer, in good ground, in rows twelve 
inches apart, and the plants five or six inches distant from each 
other. After the plants have taken root, they should be fre- 
quently hoed and kept free from weeds. When desired to have 
Leeks blanched, they should be planted in drills, three or four 
inches deep. As the plants grow, draw up to their sides the 
earth which came' out of the drills. This should be repeated at 
intervals until each plant has attained a sufficient size for use. 
Leeks will stand the winter without protection, but, as a provision 
against hard frost, some should be taken up and packed in earth 
or sand, in some dry place, for winter use. Two or three plants 
which have stood the winter should be left to produce seed, which 
will ripen early in autumn. One ounce of seed will be sufficient 
for a bed four feet wide and twelve feet long. 



LETTUCE. 

1. Early Curled, or Cut Salad. 5. Philadelphia Cabbage. 

2. Early Cabbage, 6. Curled India, or Ice. 

Butter Lettuce. "7. White Cos. 

3. Brown Dutch. 8. Green Cos. 

4. Royal Cabbage, 9. Palestine. 

Drumhead. — Imperial. 
Grand Admiral. 

The kinds enumerated are perhaps more numerous than need 
be cultivated, and the same variety has frequently so many local 
names, it is difficult to designate them. No. 1 is used as a small 
salad, and should be sown very thickly, on a smooth surface, early 
in the spring. Nos. 2 and 3 are good sorts, of about equal merit. 
Nos. 4 and 5 succeed Nos. 2 and 3, and produce large firm heads. 
No. 6 is a valuable variety, and stands the heat well. Nos. 7 and 
8 are very crisp and tender, but soon shoot to seed. To have fine 
head Lettuce, the seed should be sown, in seed-bed, from the first 
to the middle of autumn. Protect the plants by a cold frame, or 
with litter, as they stand in the ground, and transplant early in 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 123 

the spring into rich ground. For a large supply, sow in drills, 
from time to time, during spring and summer, and when up a few 
inches high, thin out the plants to twelve inches distance from 
each other every way. For this purpose Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are the 
best varieties. Lettuce may be blanched as directed for Endive. 
One-eighth of an ounce of seed will be sufficient for a bed three 
feet wide and seven feet long, and will produce between two and 
three hundred plants. 



MELON, OR CANTELEUP. 

1. Green Citron. 6. Large Musk. 

2. Pine Apple. 1. Christiana. 

3. Nutmeg. 8. Hunter, 

4. Skilluian's Fine Netted. Hooscinee Cantelmp. 

5. Large Yellow Canteleup. 9. Turk's Cap Citron. 

Melons should be planted the latter end of spring, in well-ma- 
nured and deep-dug ground. Mark it out into squares of six feet 
every way, and at the angle of every square dig a hole twelve 
inches deep and eighteen inches in diameter, into which place old 
rotted manure to the depth of six inches, and four inches of soil 
over the same, and incorporate both well together with the spade. 
Draw the soil over the mixture so as to form a circular hill about 
a foot broad at top, and sow in each hill six or eight seed, about 
two inches apart from each other, and cover about half an inch 
deep. When the plants commence producing their rough leaves, 
they should be thinned to two or three in a hill, and have the 
earth drawn up, from time to time, as high about the roots of the 
plants as the seed-leaves. As soon as the plants spread into 
branches, the top of the first runner-bud should be pinched off, 
which will greatly strengthen the plants and enable them to per- 
fect their fruit early. The ground should be kept free from weeds 
by frequent hoeings. No. 1 is roughly netted, flesh melting, very 
sweet, and high flavored. No. 2 is of medium size, rough netted, 
and flesh thick, firm, juicy, and sweet. No. 3 is somewhat larger 
and more globular, flesh green, and very highly scented. No. 4 



124 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

is a small, rough-netted variety, with green flesh, very thick, 
firm, sugary, and of the most delicious fragrance, and the earliest 
of the green-fleshed varieties. No. 5 is slightly ribbed, netted, 
good sized, and musk-flavored. Flesh salmon-colored, and earlier 
than the green varieties. No. 6 is deeply ribbed, musk flavored, 
early and productive. Flesh thick, and light salmon-colored. A 
large variety, and used when green for mangoes. No. 7 is some 
ten days earlier than No. 3, but not equal in flavor, though an ex- 
cellent variety. No. 8 is an esteemed variety, very large, and 
of fine flavor. No. 9 is a variety of No. 3, and is perhaps the 
best of its class. In order to have Melons in good perfection, the 
different varieties should be planted remote from each other, and 
also from Cucumbers, Gourds, Pumpkins, and Squashes, or degen- 
erency will be the consequence. In saving the seed of the Melon, 
the fruit should be cut crosswise, and the seed taken from the 
vine end. If taken when the fruit is just ripe, they will be found 
to be less impregnated than those saved by the ordinary method. 



WATER-MELON. 

1. Mountain Sprout, 3. Long Island. 

Long Carolina. 4. Citron, (for preserves.) 

2. Spanish. 5. New Orange. 

To have Water-melons in good perfection, they should be sown 
in very rich, light soil. Prepare, plant, and manage in every 
respect as directed for the others, only let the hills be seven or 
eight feet distant each way. One ounce of seed will plant from 
forty to fifty hills. No. 1 is a large, long striped variety, with 
bright scarlet flesh and drab-colored seed. A fine and desirable 
variety. No. 2 has scarlet flesh and black seed. It is smaller 
than some of the other varieties, but has a very thin rind and a 
rich sugary flavor. No. 3 has red flesh and grey seed, and is 
earlier than either of the above. No. 4 has white and solid flesh 
and red seed, uniformly round and smooth, striped and marbled 
with light green, and cultivated for preserving. No. 5 has red 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 125 

flesh, of medium quality, and short thick seed. The rind may be 
taken off like that of an orange. 



MUSHROOM. 

About the end of summer, take some stable manure that is not 
fresh and fiery, and throw it up into a compact heap to ferment. 
Early in autumn, when the manure is sufficiently fermented, and 
has lost all the disagreeable effluvia, mark out a bed three or four 
feet wide, in any dry, warm situation. The length must be regu- 
lated according to the quantity intended to grow. A shed with a 
southern aspect would be a very eligible place for a bed. The 
manure must be well shaken up; and, if long, should bo beaten 
well, and drawn in, by degrees, until it assumes the shape of the 
roof of a house. It must not only be beaten at the top, as it is 
gradually carried up, but should be beaten at the sides; for it is 
there that the bed should be perfectly even and firm. Having, in 
this manner, finished the bed, it must be protected, not only from 
the rains, but from the sun, by covering it over with long straw, 
thatch, or moss, for it must be neither too wet nor too dry. It 
should remain in this state for about a week, or until the fermen- 
tation has moderated to about blood heat. Then put on a layer 
of strong, rich, fresh mould, about two inches thick, in which 
holes must be made about eight inches apart every way. Into 
each of these holes place some little pieces of the spawn of mush- 
rooms, which must be covered over with a layer of mould about 
an inch in thickness, and beaten down smoothly with a spade. 
The covering of straw, or matting, must still be kept over the bed, 
for it must not be exposed immoderately to either the sun or the 
rain. Success now greatly depends on the proper moisture of the 
bed. In summer, the covering should occasionally be taken off, to 
admit of gentle showers falling upon it. In very dry seasons, it 
should be gently watered with lukewarm water. The spawn must 
be dry, with a pleasant odor, like a fresh Mushroom ; not advanced 
into white threads, similar to the spawn which is collected in the 



126 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

fields, but having a small spotted whitish appearance. In about a 
month, the young mushrooms will begin to appear, when, if the 
clay appears dry, and the weather mild, a liberal supply of tepid 
water should be given. In fine weather, the covering should be 
taken off for a few hours, which has a tendency to keep the bed in 
a healthy state. Should the weather be cold, a few minutes will 
be sufficient. The covering must, in all cases, be regulated ac- 
cording to the temperature of the atmosphere. 

To make Mushroom spawn : To any portion of fresh horse ma- 
nure, mixed with short litter, add one-third of cow manure, with 
a small quantity of mould to cement it. Mash the whole into a 
thin compost, and spread it on the floor of an open shed until it 
becomes firm enough to make flat square bricks. Which being 
done, set them on edge and frequently turn until half dry, when 
make two small holes in each brick, and insert a piece of good old 
spawn the size of a walnut in each hole. The bricks should then 
remain until they are dry. This being completed, level the sur- 
face of a piece of ground, (if the floor of a shed or house be not 
convenient,) three feet wide and of length sufficient to receive the 
bricks, on which lay a bottom of dry horse manure six inches 
thick. Place the bricks in rows, one upon another, the spawned 
side being uppermost. Cover with a sufficient quantity of warm 
horse manure to effuse a gentle heat through the whole. When 
the spawn has spread itself throughout every portion of the bricks, 
the process is ended, when they should be laid up in a dry place 
for use. Spawn made in this manner, if well dried before spring, 
will preserve its properties for many years. 



MUSTARD. 
White. Black. 

The seed of each variety should be sown the middle of spring, 
in shallow drills of clean rich ground, and covered with a light, 
thin layer of fine mould. For a fall salad, sow the beginning 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL 127 

of autumn. Due precaution should be taken to protect the seed 
from the ravages of birds. The white variety is much esteemed 
as a medicine, and from the seed of the brown variety is manufac- 
tured the condiment in daily use. 



NASTURTIUM, OR INDIAN CRESS. 

The flowers and young leaves of this plant are used as salad. 
The seed-pods are gathered when green and tender and pickled as 
a substitute for capers. The seed should be sown from the middle 
to the end of spring, in drills about an inch deep. If support be 
given them on which they can climb, they will prove more produc- 
tive than when suffered to trail on the ground. 



ONION. 



1. Silver Skinned, or White. 3. Large Red Wethersfield- 

2. Large Yellow Strasburg. 

In order to insure a good crop of Onions, the ground should be 
well prepared by digging in a plentiful supply of old and strong 
manure, very early in the spring. The sooner this be done the 
better. Sow the seed the middle of spring, moderately thick in 
drills one inch deep, and twelve inches apart. When the plants 
are up three inches high, thin them to three inches, and after- 
wards, for the daily supply, to eight inches apart. The beds 
should be carefully weeded, care being taken not to disturb the 
earth much er raise it round the plants, which will prevent them 
forming their bulbs properly. When the leaves begin to loose 
their color, lay down the crop by bending the stems down flat, just 
above the bulb. This process will check the growth of the stem, 
and afford nourishment to the bulb. Onions should be taken up 
the first of autumn, spread thinly on the ground, and turned over 
once or twice a day until thoroughly dried, and then stored away 
in any dry, airy situation. If spread thickly, they must still be 
turned occasionally, or they may be strung or hung up in nets. 



128 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

Seed Onions are generally planted in the spring, in shallow drills, 
fourteen inches apart, but will survive the winter, and yield better 
by being planted in autumn, if slightly covered with litter, long 
manure, or leaves. Onions are an exception to the general rule 
of never cropping the same ground successively with the same 
crop, as they succeed any number of years if the ground be kept 
highly manured. Nos. 1 and 2 are esteemed varieties. The latter 
keep best, though not so delicately flavored as the former. No. 3 
is grown extensively in the eastern States, where it matures the 
first season. 



OKRA. 



This vegetable is used extensively in soups and stews. It is 
highly nutritious, and deemed very wholesome. Sow the seed late 
in spring, in hills two or three feet apart, and two or three seed in 
each, — or in drills, three feet apart, and eight or ten inches between 
the same. The seed are liable to rot in the ground, and should be 
sown thickly to secure the requisite quantity of plants. Very rich 
ground should be selected for its culture. 



PARSLEY. 
Curled, or Double. Plain, or Single. 

Soak the seed a few hours in warm water, and sow very early 
in the spring, in drills an inch deep, and one foot apart. If cov- 
ered with straw or the branches of evergreens, it may be preserved 
through the winter. 



PARSNIP. 

Sugar, — Hollow Crowned, or Capped. — Lisbonaise. 

Sow the seed from the first to the middle of spring, in deeply- 
dug and well-manured ground, in drills, one inch deep and four- 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 120 

teen inches apart. When the plants are up two or three inches 
high, thin them to stand six or eight inches apart in the rows. 
A quarter of an ounce of seed is sufficient for a bed four feet wide 
and twelve feet long. The beds should be kept free from weeds, 
and frequently hoed through the summer. In autumn they will 
be fit for use. The Parsnip will stand the frost without injury, 
and are benefited thereby; for, after being frozen, their flavor is 
greatly improved. 



PEAS. 



1. Landreth's Extra Early. 7. Large White Marrowfat 

2. Early Frame, 8. Peruvian Black-eye Marrowfat. 

Early Washington. 9. Knight's Dwarf Marrowfat. 

Early May. " 10. Knight's Tall Marrowfat. 

3. Early Charlton, 11. Matchless Marrowfat. 

Golden Hotspur. 12. Blue Prussian. 

4. Bishop's Dwarf Prolific. 13. Dwarf Sugar, or Eat-pod 

5. Dwarf Blue Imperial. 14. Tall Sugar, or Eat-pod. 

6. Royal Dwarf Marrowfat. 

Peas should be sown as early in the spring as the ground will 
permit, in a warm dry situation, and covered about three inches 
deep. They are the most productive in a light, but rich soil, but 
may be grown, with care, upon almost any soil if it be well ma- 
nured and drained if inclined to be wet. Peas should be sown in 
double rows, nine inches from each other, as much ground will be 
saved by this method, and they only require half the number 
of stakes as they would when sown in single rows. The seed 
should be sown moderately thick, to allow for the depredations 
of insects or vermin, and having been covered, tread the surface 
of the soil lightly. As soon as the tendrils appear, stakes should 
be placed along the rows, from four to seven feet high, according 
to the growth of the different varieties. No. 2 is an excellent va- 
riety, but some ten days later than No. 1. No. 3 is a productive 
variety and succeeds No. 2. No. 5 is a luscious variety, and gen- 
erally much esteemed. Nos. 6, 7, 8, and 12 are very productive, 
and when sown at the same time with the early varieties, form an 
9 



130 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

uninterrupted succession. The first plantings should be made as 
soon as the ground can be worked, and for a regular succession, 
sow at short intervals during the spring and early part of summer. 



PEPPER. 

1. Large Sweet, Bell-shaped, 3. Cayenne, or Long. 

2. Tomato, or Flat. 

Sow late in spring or first of summer, in drills, on a warm bor- 
der, and when up three inches high, thin them to stand eighteen 
inches apart. They may be be sown early in the spring, in a hot- 
bed, and transplanted as soon as frost has ceased. Nos. 1 and 2 
are principally used for pickling when green. The first is quite 
mild and attains a large size. No. 3 is usually ground, when ripe 
and dried, for table use, though the green pods are also pickled. 
One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. 



POTATO. 

1. Fox's Seedling. 3. Foxite. 

2. Walnut-leared. 4. Mercer. 

The best soil for Potatoes is a rich, sandy loam, for they will 
not prosper on stiff, heavy, clayey, or wet soils. From the middle 
to the end of spring is the time for planting the general crop ; but 
if planted the beginning of spring, a very good crop may be ob- 
tained, without being liable to injury from frost, which frequently 
occurs with those that are planted earlier. In planting cut Pota- 
toes, take care to have two good eyes in each set. The small 
Potatoes should be deprived of the sprout or nose end, as a redun- 
dancy of eyes exhaust the set and produce weak plants. The sets 
.should not be planted until a week after being cut, in order to 
afford them time to dry. Plant in drills, four or five inches deep, 
and about thirty inches apart. The sets may be dropped six or 
eight inches apart. When uncut Potatoes are used for seed, all 
the eyes but one ought to be scooped out, and should be planted 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 131 

at greater distances, in order to give room for the plants to get 
light and air. The eyes or buds nearest the root fibre sprout a 
week or more later than those furthest from it. In planting out 
sets, therefore, the two sorts of eyes should be planted in separate 
rows. Potatoes for planting are always found to answer best 
when procured from a different soil, as they seem to like a change 
of food. The ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come 
up, and as they progress in growth, the space between the roots 
ought to be well dug, to loosen the soil and encourage the spread- 
ing of the roots. When six inches high, the soil should be 
drawn up to the stem, so as to cover the Potatoes at the surface 
from the light, which turns them green and acrid, and to permit 
the air to penetrate to the roots the farthest spread. Another 
hoeing will be afterwards necessary, to keep the vines from falling 
down. The withering of the plants point out the proper time for 
digging up the crop. If any be dug before those symptoms ap- 
pear, they ought not to be exposed to the sun, which will render 
them acrid and injure their flavor. Potatoes intended to be 
eaten, cannot, probably, be too ripe. Such, however, as are in- 
tended for seed, should not be allowed to become too ripe, as, in 
that case, they are more subject to the disease called the curl, and 
which is often very detrimental to the crop. 



POTATO, SWEET, 
Yellow. Red. 

Sweet Potatoes should be planted whole, the middle of spring, 
in a hot-bed, three or four inches deep, and about the same dis- 
tance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. 
When these are three inches above ground, separate them from 
the Potato, which, if suffered to remain, will produce more sprouts 
for a successive planting. Transplant them into rich light soil, 
in rows four feet distant, and the plants about a foot apart in the 
rows, or in hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until 
the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow 



132 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

freely. In sandy ground, it will be found advisable to put a 
shovel full of well-rotted manure to each plant. A moderate hot- 
bed, five feet square, put down the middle of spring, with half a 
peck of good sound Sweet Potatoes planted therein, will produce a 
succession of sprouts which, if planted and managed as directed, 
will yield about fifteen bushels of Sweet Potatoes. 



PUMPKIN 

1. Cashaw. 3. Mammoth. 

2. Common Field, or Cheese. 

Pumpkin seed should be sown the latter end of spring, in hills, 
eight or ten feet apart, with two or three seed in a hill. They are 
not so tenacious of a particular soil as either Melons or Cucum- 
bers, but in other respects are cultivated in the same manner. 



RADISH. 

1. Long Scarlet Short-top. 6. Summer White. 

2. Long Salmon. 7. White Spanish, 

3. White Turnip-rooted. Fall, or Winter Black. 

4. Red Turnip-rooted, 8. Black Spanish, 

Cherry. Fall, or Winter White. 

5. Yellow Turnip-rooted, 

Yellow Summer. 

The two first named are not very dissimilar. No. 1 is gener- 
ally preferred for its brilliancy of color, though No. 2 is the most 
brittle, and of course the best. Nos. 3 and 4 are excellent varie- 
ties and early. The first four named are generally used for the 
earlier sowings, which should be made on a sheltered border, as 
soon in the spring as the ground can be worked. The soil should 
be well manured, deeply dug, and raked free from clods and 
stones. Sow the seed broadcast and rake in evenly, or in drills, 
about one inch deep, and a foot apart. If cold weather return 
after the seed have sprouted, protect by branches of evergreens, 
straw, &c, which should be removed so soon as it may be pru- 
dent. Nos. 5 and 6 are better adapted to the summer than the 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 133 

preceding, which, in warm dry weather, soon become tough and 
sticky. For an uninterrupted succession, sow these varieties at 
the same time with the earlier kinds. Nos. 7 and 8 are grown 
for winter use, and should be sown at close of summer or early in 
autumn, and when ripe, stored away in some dry place, free from 
frost. For a bed three feet wide and nine feet long, one ounce 
of seed will be sufficient for spring varieties, and three-quarters 
of an ounce for autumn and winter varieties. 



ROCAMBOLE. 

The bulbs of the Rocambole is of a milder and better flavor, but 
not so large, as the common Garlic. The seed should be sown in 
drills, shortly after they are ripe, or in the ensuing spring. They 
must be kept clean of weeds; and, in autumn, may be taken up, 
the offsets separated, and again planted, in rows twelve inches 
apart, and six inches distant in the rows. 



RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT. 

The Rhubarb, of which there are several varieties, is cultivated 
for the foot-stalk of the leaf, which possesses an agreeable acidity, 
and resembles the gooseberry when made into pies or tarts. It is 
fit for use before green fruit can be had, and is an excellent sub- 
stitute. The seed should be sown early in spring, or late in au- 
tumn, in a border with a northern exposure, and scatterd thinly in 
drills, two inches deep, and one foot apart, and slightly covered 
with soil. When the plants appear, they should be thinned out 
to about six inches from each other, and afterwards to a foot. 
The plants thinned out may be planted in a similar situation, if re- 
quired. In this case, they must be taken up with care, so as not 
to break the roots. As soon as the leaves are decayed, the seed- 
ling plants should be taken up carefully and planted out in rows 
two feet apart, and the same distance between the plants. When 



134 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

planted further apart, a great portion of ground will be wasted, as 
they are not injured by being shaded by each other. Rhubarb 
should be planted in a shady or northern situation, as their stems 
will be finer and better when not too much exposed to the sun. 
Any rich soil will grow Rhubarb, which will require an annual 
top dressing of well-rotted manure. This should be applied in 
the autumn ; for, during the winter, the nutriment which it con- 
tains will be conveyed down to the roots by the rain, and it will 
also cause the leaves to commence growing much earlier in the 
spring. As seedling plants do not produce stems fit for use till 
two years after the time of sowing, if plants are desired to be ob- 
tained sooner than they can thus be brought into use, the old 
plants may be taken up and separated into as many parts as there 
are crowns or eyes, leaving a portion of the root to each. These 
may be planted out when desired, and they will soon produce 
stems sufficiently strong for any required purpose. On the ap- 
proach of severe weather, seedling plants should be covered with 
straw or the branches of evergreens, which must be removed early 
in spring, and the ground well hoecl and cleared of weeds. 



SALSIFY, OR OYSTER-PLANT. 

The roots of this plant are boiled like Carrots, as a vegetable 
dish, or, after being parboiled, made into cakes, with paste, and 
fried like oysters, which they closely resemble in both taste and 
flavor. The stalks of one year old are sometimes used in the 
spring as Asparagus. The seed may be sown, from the first to 
the middle of spring, in deep, rich loamy soil, moderately thick, 
in drills, an inch deep and twelve inches apart When the plants 
are two or three inches high, they should be thinned to the dis- 
tance of six inches from each other, and afterwards hoed. The 
ground should be kept clean and loose around the plants, by hoe- 
' ing, and in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots may 
be taken up late in autumn and secured in sand, or suffered to 
remain out, and dug up when wanted. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 135 



SCORZONERA, OR BLACK SALSIFY. 

The roots of this vegetable are very palatable and nourishing, 
and is principally used as an ingredient in soup. Some prefer it 
to the common Oyster-plant. It is sometimes eaten like Carrots. 
In which case, they should be deprived of their rind and immersed 
in cold water for half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are 
cultivated in the same manner as the preceding. 



SCURVY GRASS. 

Used as a small salad throughout the winter and spring. Sow 
broadcast, or in shallow drills, early in autumn. Protect through 
the winter by covering lightly with straw or the branches of ever- 
greens. 



SEA-KALE. 

The soil most suitable to this plant is that which has a consid- 
erable proportion of sand in its formation. In preparing the 
ground for the seed, which should be sown as early in the spring 
as the ground can be prepared, or the middle of autumn, dig it 
deeply, and sow in drills an inch and a half deep, and sixteen 
inches apart. The plants should be thinned out to the distance 
of six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and kept clear 
of weeds by frequent hoeings. When the plants are a year old, 
every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant in 
each row, leaving them eighteen inches apart, which may be 
transplanted into good ground prepared as directed for Aspara- 
gus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart. 
The better mode is to make two drills three inches deep, and in- 
sert the plants about sixteen inches apart. When these drills are 
filled, the crowns of Jhe plants will be covered nearly two inches, 



136 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

but they will soon push through the earth. New beds may be 
formed with pieces of old roots, which should be cut into lengths 
of about two inches, and planted the beginning of spring, three or 
four inches deep, and sixteen inches apart. In autumn, spread 
long stable-manure over the beds as a protection from extreme 
frost. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this may be 
taken off, or if well rotted, dig some in around the plants. Early 
in the spring, the crowns of the plants should be covered to the 
depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. This may be done 
by placing over them a layer of dry sand or gravel, an inch thick, 
and over each cluster of plants a blanching-pot, box, or anything 
to exclude the light, pressing it firmly in the ground, an admis- 
sion of air being injurious to both color and flavor. If the pots or 
boxes used for this purpose be covered with fresh horse manure, 
it will forward the shoots in growth, and make them sweeter and 
more tender. When the plants have been covered three or four 
weeks, they should be examined, and if the stalks have made a 
growth of three or four inches, they may be cut. Care should be 
taken not to injure the crowns by cutting the shoots too close. 
If the beds are annually dug and manured, they will last many 
years, and will prove very productive. 



SHALLOT, OR ESCHALLOT. 

This vegetable has a strong, but not unpleasant odor, and is 
preferred by many to Onions for seasoning various dishes. It is 
propagated by offsets, which should be planted out in autumn, in 
rows twelve inches apart and six inches distant from each other. 
If planted the latter end of summer, they will be fit for use the 
1 nii Idle of spring. The bulbs should be taken up when full 
grown, when the leaves begin to decay, and spread out to dry, in 
some airy situation. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 137 



SKIRRET. 

The seed should be sown very early in the spring, in drills a 
quarter of an inch deep, and twelve inches apart. It is also pro- 
pagated by offsets, taken from the old roots, and planted very early 
in the spring, before they begin to shoot. When the leaves begin 
to decay, in autumn, the roots are fit for use, and continue so until 
they commence sprouting in the spring. 



SORREL. 



Used as salad. Sow the seed the middle of spring, in shallow 
drills, and thin the plants to twelve inches apart. 



SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 
1. Round Savoy-leaved. 2. Prickly Seed. 

Spinach requires a richer soil than almost any other culinary 
vegetable to bring it to perfection, as it has to yield frequent cut- 
tings, and therefore requires a frequent developement of parts, 
which cannot be expected without an abundance of food. The 
seed may be sown broadcast, or in drills one foot apart. For 
spring and early summer use, sow as early as the ground can be 
worked. For the autumn supply, sow the close of summer. For 
winter and early spring use, sow the middle of autumn. The lat- 
ter sowing will need protection on the arrival of cold weather, and 
should have a light covering of straw, or long manure, during 
winter. When the autumnal sowings are made during hot, dry 
weather, the seed is difficult to vegetate. No. 2 is the most hardy 
and well adapted for autumn sowing. Both produce thick succu- 
lent leaves of large size. The ground cannot be too rich for Spin- 
ach. The stronger it is, the more succulent will be the leaves, 
and, of course, the more delicate and tender. Careful weeding 



138 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

and hoeing up the earth, so as not to choke up the hearts of the 
plants, are indispensable. One ounce of seed will be sufficient for 
a bed five feet wide and twelve feet long, or half an ounce for the 
same space if sown in drills. 



SQUASH. 

1. Early Bush, 3. Long Gr>en Crookneck. 

Patty Pan. 4. Cocoa-nut, 

2. Early Apple Bush, Valparaiso. 

Egg. Porter. 

Plant in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucumbers 
and Melons, and cultivate in like manner. Nos. 1 and 2 are 
of compact growth, and well adapted to small gardens. No. 2 is 
particularly so, and a very early variety. No. 4 is used both as 
a vegetable dish and for pies, and may be kept throughout the 
winter. The Bush varieties should be planted three or four feet 
distant, and the running sorts from six to nine, according to their 
nature. Five or six seed should be planted in each hill, to guard 
against accidents, and when the plants are out of danger, be 
thinned to two or three in a hill. The summer varieties should 
be gathered before the skin gets hard. The other varieties should 
be permitted to ripen, and, when gathered, exposed to the sun and 
air, in some dry situation, before stowed away. 



TOMATO. 

1. Large Red. 3. Pear-shaped. 

2. Large Yellow. 4. Cherry. 

For early use, sow very early in the spring, in a hot-bed, and 
transplant when frost has ceased, in a warm border, three feet 
apart. The ground should be hoed often and drawn up slightly 
around the plants till one foot high. If the tops of the shoots be 
pinched off just above the blossoms, the ripening of the fruit will 
be hastened. For summer use, sow as soon as frost has ceased. 
As the plants progress in growth, sticks or trellises should be pro- 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 



139 



vided, to which the plants should be trained in such manner as will 
permit each portion to receive its due proportion of the sun. The 
south side of a fence is an eligible situation for the early maturing 
of the fruit. No. 1 is the variety usually preferred, the earliest 
that grows to large size, and a great bearer. No. 2 is cultivated 
principally for preserving. No. 3 is of small size and used for 
pickling. No. 4 is a small, round variety, cultivated for pickling, 
and very early. 



TURNIP. 



1. Early Flat Dutch. 

2. Red-topped. 

3. Early Stone. 

4. Large Norfolk. 

5. Large Globe. 



6. Yellow Aberdeen, 

Scotch Yellow. 

7. Dale's Hybrid. 

8. Ruta Baga, 

'Sweedish. 



The ground cannot be too rich for Turnips. Old sod, or newly- 
cleared land, produces the largest and finest flavored sorts. The 
best for family use, as well as for general culture, are Nos. 1 and 
2, which resemble each other in all respects but color. They are 
of quick growth, with small narrow leaves, and admit of standing 
quite close together. They are quite distinct from, and superior 
to, the common White and Red-top varieties usually cultivated. 
For summer use, sow early in the spring, in drills twelve inches 
apart, and thin to five inches. They are not, however, certain to 
succeed at this season. For the main crop, sow at end of summer, 
either broadcast or in drills. The largest crops are obtained by 
the latter method. No. 3 is a good kind, but of slower growth 
than either of the former. Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are robust kinds, and 
are found well adapted to the South. No. 7 resembles No. 8 in 
some respects, but is more delicately flavored, and much esteemed 
for table use. No. 8 is more generally grown for stock than for 
table use, but is excellent late in the spring, when the other kinds 
have become pithy. At the North, the five last named should be 
sown the middle of summer, while Nos. 1 and 2 frequently yield 
abundant crops when sown the first of autumn. Turnips are 



140 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

affected in their form and flavor by soil, climate, and mode of cul- 
ture. The sowings should always be made just before a rain, 
if possible, for the escape from the fly and the success of the crop 
depends upon quick germination and a rapid growth at first. The 
ground should be kept free from weeds, and when the bottoms 
begin to enlarge, the earth should be brushed from about the roots 
to the depth of half an inch. A light dressing of wood-ashes, 
lime, or soot, should be given morning and evening for a few days 
after sowing the seed, which will generally serve to protect the 
crop against the attacks of the fly. To protect during winter, 
store in a cool, airy cellar, and cover with sand, or in mounds 
of dry earth. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 141 

DESCRIPTIVE LIST 

OP 

AROMATIC AND MEDICINAL HERBS. 



These possess a strong spicy taste and odor, and are cultivated 
for various culinary and medicinal purposes. Those marked with 
an asterisk (*) are perennials, and, when once obtained, may be 
preserved for many years. The seed of these should be sown the 
middle of spring, in seed-beds, and transplanted in the ensuing 
autumn or spring. The others are annuals, and come to perfec- 
tion the first season. These should be sown the middle of spring, 
and when the plants are up a few inches high, may be thinned out 
to proper distances. Each kind should be sown by itself, in drills 
about half an inch deep and twelve inches apart. To preserve for 
use, (unless otherwise directed,) they must be thoroughly di'ied, 
the foliage finely pulverized, and placed in jars, bottles, or other 
air-tight vessels, securely corked, and labeled. 

ANISE. — {PIMPINELLA ANISUM.) 

The seed of this herb possess considerable medicinal properties. 
They are aromatic and carminative, and yields an oil both by dis- 
tillation and expression, which is much used in flatulencies. The 
leaves are used as a garnish and for seasoning various dishes. 

BALM.* — (MELISSA OFFICINALIS.) 

This is purely a medicinal herb, and is used in the form of a tea 
as a grateful diluent in fevers. It should be gathered before it 
flowers, as it is then more odorous. It may be propagated from 



142 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

offsets. When once established, the only care required is to keep 
it from extending itself too profusely. 

BASIL, SWEET.— (ocymdm basilicum.) 

Cultivated for various culinary purposes. The young leaf-tops 
are used in making salads and soups, their flavor resembling that 
of cloves. May be propagated from cuttings. 

BENE-PLANT. — (sesamum orientale.) 

The seed should be sown in a warm border, in shallow drills 
about one foot apart, and the plants protected against frost. A 
couple of leaves, when green, placed in a tumbler of water forms 
a thin jelly, without taste or color, which children afflicted with 
the summer complaint will drink freely. An invaluable plant, 
and the best remedy for this fatal disease. If the top of the plant 
be pinched off, it will throw out leaves in profusion. Cats are 
quite fond of it and frequently destroy it. 

BONESET.* — (eupatorium perfoliatum.) 

A medicinal plant, chiefly cultivated for its leaves, which are 
used in decoctions. Its medicinal properties are those of a tonic 
stimulant, and when given in moderate quantities are said to pro- 
mote digestion and restore tone to the system. 

BORAGE. — (borago officinalis.) 

This herb possesses sedative properties. The young leaves are 
used as a salad. The plant is quite ornamental, and may be pro- 
pagated from suckers 

CATNEP.* — (nepeta cataria.) 

Used medicinally in the form of a tea. Cats are very fond of it 
when the scent of the plant is excited by being bruised from 
gathering or transplanting, and frequently destroy it. When 
grown from seed, they will not generally disturb it unless from 
like causes. 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 143 



CARAWAY. — (CARUM CARUI.) 

This is a biennial plant and is cultivated chiefly for its seed. 
They are used for flavoring cakes, &c, and form a carminative dis- 
tilled water. The leaves are used as an ingredient in salads. 
The roots are said to be superior in flavor to those of the Parsnip. 
May be propagated from suckers. 

CHAMOMILE.* — (anthemis nobilis.) 

This is a medicinal plant of great utility. The flowers should 
be gathered before they begin to fade, and when they are perfectly 
free from moisture. Spread in a shady place to dry, and place in 
paper bags. This herb delights in a poor, sandy soil, and may 
be readily propagated by divisions of the root. 

CORIANDER. — (coriandrum sativum.) 

The leaves of this plant are strongly scented. The seed, which 
are slightly aromatic, are used medicinally, in culinary purposes 
as a sweatmeat, and for seasoning various drinks. May be pro- 
pagated from suckers. 

DILL.* — (anethum graveolens.) 

The seed of this plant are used in medicine as carminatives. 
The leaves are used in soups, &c. When once established, an 
abundance of young plants may be had every spring. May be 
propagated from cuttings and suckers. 

ELECAMPANE.*— (inula helenidm.) 

This is purely a medicinal plant, and is cultivated for its roots, 
which, when dried and made into a tea, is an excellent remedy for 
colds. A moist and shady position is essential to its culture. May 
be propagated by dividing the roots. 



144 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 



FENNEL, COMMON.* — (anethum fceniculum.) 

The leaves of this plant are used in salads and sauce for fish. 
When not required to produce seed, the stalks should be cut down, 
from time to time, during the growing season. By this method, 
the roots will last many years May be propagated from suckers 
and offsets. 

FEVERFEW.* — (chrysanthemum parthenium.) 

This plant is cultivated for medicinal purposes. The roots have 
a strong unpleasant smell and a bitter taste. Used externally in 
the form of lotion and of poultice, and internally as an infusion for 
cholic, hysterical affections, and weak digestion. May be propa- 
gated by dividing the roots. 

GINGER.* — (ZINIBER OFFICINALE.) 

The roots of this plant are much used both in medicine and do- 
mestic cookery. The roots should be planted in a hot-bed, and, 
when frost has ceased, transplanted to two feet distant from each 
other, and the ground kept clean and free from weeds. The roots 
desired for use should be taken up when the stalks fade, and, 
being first washed and scalded, dried in the sun. Those intended 
for planting, should be taken up somewhat earlier, and protected 
from frost. In the middle or southern States, it may readily be 
propagated by dividing the green roots. In the South, and per- 
haps in some of the middle States, they may be permitted to 
remain in the ground till spring, by covering the roots with straw 
or long manure. 

HOREHOUND.* — (marrubium vulgare.) 

This is purely a medicinal herb, and has an aromatic odor when 
dried, which it soon looses if not excluded from the air. It is 
tonic, diuretic, and laxative, and a popular domestic remedy for 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 145 

coughs. When once established, a plentiful supply of young 
plants may be had every spring from the seed which drop. 

HYSSOP.* — (hyssopus officinalis. ) 

A neat little evergreen and quite fragrant when in flower. The 
whole plant has a strong aromatic scent, and the leaves and flowers 
a strong pungent taste. The flower-spikes and young leaves are 
used for medicinal purposes. The flower-stems, when gathered 
and dried, should be hung up in some dry situation. Easily pro- 
pagated by dividing the root. 

LAVENDER.* — (lavendula spica.) 

The flowers should be cut in dry weather, when they begin to 
blow, close to the stem. The uses of which are well known, 
whether used in the flower or the water which is distilled from it. 
When grown in poor and gravelly soils, the flowers have a power- 
ful odor, while in rich soil, they grow more luxuriantly, but have 
less perfume. Easily propagated from cuttings or divisions of the 
roots. 

MARIGOLD, POT.— (calendula officinalis.) 

Both the leaves and flowers of this plant are used for flavoring 
various dishes in domestic cookery. When the flowers are full 
blown, they, as well as the leaves, should be gathered, dried, and 
preserved for future use. 

MARJORAM, SWEET.— (origanum majorana.) 

Different portions of this plant are used for various purposes. 
The seed and leaves are used medicinally, and the top for dyeing. 
The young tops and leaves are used in soups, broths, and stuffings. 
The dried leaves furnish an excellent substitute for tea, and is said 
to be exceedingly grateful. Should be cut before it comes into 
bloom, hung up in small bunches to dry, first for a day in the sun, 
and then in the shade, and when quite dry, hung up in paper bags 



146 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

in a dry place. It thrives well in a light, dry, and moderately 
fertile soil, and should have an open situation. 

MINT, SPEAR.*— (MENTHA VIRIDIS.) 

This herb contains much essential oil, and which is used for 
various purposes. The essential oil, a conserve, a simple water, 
and a spirit, are the officinal preparations from this plant. The 
conserve is very grateful, and the distilled waters, both simple aud 
spirituous, are generally thought pleasant. The leaves and tops 
are likewise used for various culinary purposes. For medicinal 
use, it should be cut in dry weather, just before the flowers ap- 
pear. Should be transplanted every third year, and requires a 
moist shady position. Propagated by dividing the roots. 

MINT, PEPPER.*— (MENTHA PIPERITA.) 

This plant has a much stronger smell and a more penetrating 
taste than Spearmint. The officinal preparations are an essential 
oil, a simple water, and a spirit. To keep up its quality, the roots 
should be transplanted every third year, otherwise it degenerates 
into the flavor of Spearmint. When cut in wet weather, it turns 
black, and is worth but little. Propagated by dividing the roots. 

PENNYROYAL.* — (mentha pulegium. ) 

A medicinal herb, but used for some few culinary purposes. 
The plant has an odor somewhat like Spearmint, but less fragrant. 
The taste is aromatic and pungent, with a slight flavor of cam- 
phor. Formerly in high repute, but now seldom used in regular 
practice. Propagated by dividing the roots. 

ROSEMARY.* — (Rosmarinus officinalis. ) 

By distillation, this plant yields a light-pale essential oil of great 
fragrance, which is imparted to rectified spirit. It is the principal 
ingredient in Hungary water. Tea is made from the leaves for 
headache and nervous persons. It delights in a lean, dry soil, 



AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 147 

and, when once established, will last for many years. Propagated 
from cuttings, in spring and autumn. 

RUE, COMMON.* — (rota graveolens.) 

The leaves of this plant have a powerful unpleasant odor, and a 
hot, bitter, nauseous taste. When green, they will inflame and 
blister the skin, but looses this property in drying. Medicinally, 
it is stimulant and antispasmodic. Propagated from cuttings, in 
spring and autumn. 

SAGE, GARDEN.* — (salvia officinalis.) 

Used for various culinary purposes, and in some cases medicin- 
ally. It was formerly in great repute in medicine. Wet ground 
is not congenial to its growth. May be propagated from seed, 
cuttings, or divisions of the root. The shoots of the present year 
should be employed for cuttings, as they root freely, and if moder- 
ately watered till rooted, will form strong plants the first season. 
As soon as the foliage has matured, Sage should be cut to witbin 
two eyes of the present year's growth, dried in the shade, placed 
in paper bags, and hung up in a dry situation. By this method, 
a second crop may be obtained. 

SAVORY. 

There are two varieties of this plant cultivated for various culi- 
nary, and some medicinal purposes. Winter Savory (satureja 
Montana) is a perennial plant, and may be propagated from seed, 
cuttings, or offsets, the middle of spring. Summer Savory (sa- 
tureja hortensis) is an annual, and should be planted every year 
if wanted in perfection. Both varieties are much esteemed for 
their warm, aromatic, and pungent leaves. Should be cut and 
dried as directed for Sage. 

TANSY.* — (tanacetum vulgare.) 

The common Tansy has a strong aromatic smell and a bitter 
taste. It is stimulant and carminative, and a distilled water and 



148 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 

a stomachic bitter are prepared from it. The young leaves are 
shredded down and employed to give color and flavor to puddings. 
They are also used in omelets and cakes. Propagated from seed 
and divisions of the roots. 

THYME.* — (thymus vulgaris.) 

The young leaves of this plant are employed for various culi- 
nary purposes. It yields a species of camphor in distillation with 
water. Propagated from seed or divisions of the roots. 

WORMWOOD.* — (aktemisia absinthium.) 

This is purely a medicinal plant, and used for various purposes. 
It is said to be a stomachic and slightly stimulating. Propagated 
from seed, cuttings, and divisions of the roots. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



FLOWER-GARDEN 



Annuals, tender, 19 

half-hardy, 20 

hardy, 20 

Best soil for a garden, 7 

Biennials, 20 

Box edging, 93 

Bulbous roots, 20, 30 

Bulbs in glasses, 100 

pots, 100 

Cacti, 101 

Carnation pinks, 94 

Catalogue of flower-seed, 23 

Clarification of plants, 19 

roses, 54 

Component parts of soil, 7 

Chrysanthemum, 95 

Dahlia, 95 

Deciduous plants, 21, 31 

Destructive insects, 90 

Evergreens, 22, 34 

Fly, 91 

Garden plants, 93 

tools, 1G 

Geraniums, 96 

Grafting-wax, 92 

Gravel walks, 12 

Green-fly, 90 

Growing roses from seed, 3 7 

Griil), 91 

Hot-bed and pit, 14 

manures for,.... 14 

House plants in winter, 98 

Hydrangea, 96 

Lilies, 97 

Mildew, 90 

Perrennials, 20 

Petunias, 97 

Practical directions, 16 

Preparation of the ground, 9 

manure, 8 

Propagation by cuttings, 39 

budding, 40 

inn-arching, 44 

cleft-grafting, ... 48 



Page. 

Propagation by layering, 49 

root -grafting, ... 46 

whip-grafting, .. 43 

wedge-grafting, 47 
Rosa Multiflora, — ■ 

The Multiflora Rose, 55 

Rosa Centifolia Mdscosa, — 

The Moss Rose, 56 

Rosa Moschata, — 

The Noisette Rose, 58 

Rosa Indica Odorata, — 

The Tea-scented Rose 62 

Rosa Indica, — 

The Bengal Chinese, or Daily 

Rose, 67 

Rosa Lawbenciajta, — 

The Miniature Rose, 70 

Rosa Bourboniana, — 

The Bourbon Rose, 70 

Remontantes, — 

The Hybrid Perpetual Rose, 7 7 

Perpetual Damask Rose, 82 

Rosa Michropiiyllia, — 

The Small-leaved Rose, 85 

Rosa Moschata, — 

The Musk-scented Rose, 86 

Roses, planting, 50 

impregnating the seed of, 38 

protecting tender, 91 

pruning, 51 

select list of, 88 

explanation of terms used 

in describing, 87 

Rose bug, 90 

worm, ' 90 

Seed, gathering, 13 

sowing, 9 

preserving, 13 

Slugs, 91 

Transplanting, 10 

Tuberoots, 30 

Verbenas, 98 

Walks and beds, 11 

Watering, remarks on, 17 



152 



GENERAL LNDEX. 



ROSES 



Page 

Abbe Meillon, 59 

Moiland, 67 

Abricote, 63 

Acidalie, 71 

Adam, 63 

Adele Javon, 78 

Admiral d' Eating, 78 

de Rigney, 60 

Aggrippinia, 68 

Aimee Vibert, 59 

Scandens 59 

Alba, 55, 59, 10 

Odorata, 85 

Alcine, 67 

Alexandrine Bachrneteff, 18 

Alice Leroi, 56 

Alphonse Karr, 18 

Alzande, 59 

Amarantine, 11 

Amenaide, Tl 

Angelina, 83 

Bucelle, VI 

Angelique Quetier, 56 

Anteros, 63 

Antheros, 63 

Antinous, 83 

Anne Beluze, 11 

Apolline, 11 

Arance de Navaro, 67 

Arehduchesse Theresa Isabel, 63 

Archduke Charles, 67 

Archinto, 63 

Arkinto, 63 

Armosa, 71 

Aricie, 78 

Asteroide, 71 

Aubcrnon, 78 

Auguste Mee, 78 

Augustine Hersent, 67 

Lelieur, 71 

Margat, 71 

Mouchelet, 78 

Aurora, 59, 65 

Aurore du Guide, 71 

Barbot, 63 

Bardon, 67 

Barronne Delaage, 67 



Barronne de Heckeren, . 

Prevost, , 

Beau Carmin, 

Beaute de Versailles,..., 
Belle Allemande, 

Archinto, 

Emilie, 

Faber, 

Ferronniere, 

d'Esquermes, 

de Florence, 

Isadore, 

Marguerite, 

Marseillaise, 

de Monza, 

Belzunce, 

Bernard, 

Billiard 

Blush Moss, 

Perpetual, 

Boisnard, 

Bon Silene, 

Boquet de Flore, 

Bougere, 

Boulogne, 

Bourbon Moss, 

Bride of Abydos, 

Buret, , 

Calliope, 

Camellia Blanc, 

Rouge, 

Camelliaflora, 

Camel eon, 

Caprice des Dames, 

Captain Renard, 

Carassana, 

Cardinal Fesch, 

Carmin Cluster, 

d'Yebles, 

Superbe, 

Carnea, 

Caroline, 

Celimne, 

Cels Multiflora, 

Ceres, 

Cezarine Souchet, 

Champneyana, , 



Page. 
.... 78 
.... 78 
.... 67 
.... 71 
.... 63 
.... 63 
.... 67 
.... 83 
.... 67 
.... 59 
.... 67 
.... 68 
.... 63 
.... 59 
.... 67 
.... 71 
.... 83 
.... 83 
.... 56 
.... 84 
.... 68 
.... 63 
.... 71 
.... 63 
.... 59 
.... 57 
.... 63 
.... 63 
.... 78 
.... 68 
.... 59 
.... 68 
.... 68 
.... 70 
... 84 
... 61 

,:.. 7i 

.. 61 



68 
•85 
63 
71 
68 
72 
72 
59 



GENERAL INDEX. 



153 



Page 

Champney's Pink Cluster, 59 

Charlemagne, 72 

Charles Martel, 72 

Reybaud J.. 63 

Soiichet,. 72 

the Tenth, 59 

Chatenay, 72 

Cloris, 59 

Chromatelle, 59 

Clara Sylvain 64 

Wendel, 59 

Claire du Chatelet, 83 

Clementine Duval, 18 

Seringe, 18 

Clifton Moss 58 

Cloth of Gold, 59 

Coccinea, 85 

Coelestis, v 61 

Coeline Perpetuelle, 18 

Comble de Gloire, 6S 

Cornice de Seine et Marne, 12 

Commandant Fournier, 78 

Common Tea, 65 

Comted'Egmont, 18 

d'Eu, 78 

de Montalivet, 19 

de Osmond, 64 

de Paris, 64, 79 

de Rambuteau, 12 

Comtesse Duehatel, 79 

de Grillon, 59 

deNoe 57 

Odoisse, 60 

d'Orloff, 60 

de Rambuteau, 79 

de Tolosan 60 

Conque de Venus, 60 

Cora L. Barton 60 

Cornet, '. 79 

Couronne de Beranger, 83 

Cramoisie, 86 

Superieur, 68 

Crested Moss, 56 

Provins, 56 

Crimson, 83 

Globe, 72 

Madame Desprez 73 

Moss, 56 

Pompon. 57 

Superbe, 84 

Damask Moss 56 

D'Ang-ers, 83 



Page. 

D'Esquermes, 83 

Dela Fleche, 57 

Delille, 72 

Delphine Gaudot HI 

DeMeaux, 57 

De Montmorency, 83 

Desdemona, s:; 

Desgaches, 72 

Desire Roussell, 60 

Desprez d'Arcole, 60 

DeuildeDumontd'Urville, 83 

Devoniensis, 64 

Docteur Blandin, 72 

Hardouin, 72 

Marjolin, 79 

Marx, 79 

Roques, 72 

Doa Carlos, 68 

Donna Maria, 60 

Double White Striped Moss 57 

Dremont, 64 

Due de Alen^on, 79 

Aumale, 79 

Chartres, 72 

Isly, 79 

Duchess de Galliera, 79 

Kent, 68 

Mecklenbourg, 64 

Montpensier, 79 

Normandie, 72 

Orleans, 79 

Praslin, 79 

Rohan 83 

Sutherland, 79 

Thuringe, 72 

Du Luxembourg. 60, 86 

Dumont du Courset, 72 

Dupetit Thouars, 72 

Earl of Derby, 83 

Talbot, 79 

Eclatante, 57 

Edouard Desfoses, 73 

Eliza Balcombe, 83 

Sauvage, 64 

Emilie Courtier, 73 

Etna, 57, 68 

Etoile du Berger, 73 

Eugene Beauharnais, 6S 

Hardy, 68 

Pirolle, 00 

Eugenia Dubourg, 60 

Desgachec, 64 



154 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Page 

Eugenie Guinoisseau, 73 

Jovain, 65 

Euphrosine, CO 

Fabvier, 68 

Fanny Dupuis, 63 

Duval, 68 

Faustine, 73 

Fedora, 73 

Fellenburg, 60 

Ferdinand Deppe, 80 

Ferrugineuse, 58 

Flavescens, 64 

Fleur de Jeune Age, 60 

Flon, 84 

Floralie, 64 

Fragoletta, 64 

French Yellow Noisette, 60 

Fulgorie, 80 

Gantin, 72 

Geant des Batailles, 80 

General Dubourg, 73 

Hoche, 73 

Soyez, 08 

Taylor, ..' 73 

George Cuvier, 73 

Georgina, 83 

Gigantesque, 64 

Gloire, To 

des, 84 

de Hardy, 64 

de Paris,' 73 

Rosameue, 80 

Goubault, 64 

Gracilis, 57 

Grande, 83 

et Belle, 83 

Captainc, 80 

Grandiflora, 61 

Grevillia, 55 

Gros Charles, 68 

Hamon, 64 

Happy Dream, 66 

Hardy, 64 

Heloise, 57 

Hennequin, 73 

Henry Clay, (Ball's,) 73 

(Raabe's, ) 73 

Lecoq 73 

the Fifth, 68 

Herbemonth's Musk ('luster, 86 

Hermosa, 71 

Hersilie, 73 



Hortensia, 

Hynu-nee, 64 

Hyppolyte, 64 

Icterose, 69 

Ida Percot, 73 

Imperatrice Josephine, 73 

Indica, 68 

Alba, 69 

Minor, 70 

Indigo, 83 

Infidelite Lisette, 69 

Isabel, 63 

Isaure Lablee, 83 

Jacques Lafitte, 80 

Jaune Desprez, 60 

Panache, 65 

Jeannie d'Arc, 60 

Deans, 68 

Jeanne Hatchette, 84 

Joseph Deschiens, 69 

Josephine Antoinette, 84 

Malton, 65 

Jules Desmont, 65 

Julia, 60 

Dante, 60 

Julie Deloynes, 73 

Dupont, 80 

de Fontenelle, 74 

Mansais, 65 

Julienne Le Sourde, 60 

Justine, 74 

King of France, 69 

La Biche, 60 

La Capricieuse, 84 

Lactans, 60 

Lady Alice Peel, 80 

Canning, 74 

Elphingstone, 80 

Fordwich, 80 

Granville, 65 

Sefton, 80 

Seymour, 84 

Stuart, 80 

Warrender, 64 

L'Etna, 68 

Laffay's Perpetual White Muss,.. 57 

La Gracieuse, 74 

Lamarque, 61 

a Cceur Rose, 60 

La Mienne 84 

La Miniature. 70, 84 

Landreth's Carmine, 61 



GENERAL INDEX. 



155 



Page, 

La Nymphe, 61 

Lane, 80 

La Pactole, 61 

LaReine, 80 

La Renommee 65 

La Renoncule, 80 

La Sylphide, 65 

Latifolia, 74 

Laura, Davoust, 55 

Raymond, 80 

Laurence de Montmorency, 84 

La Victorieuse, 62 

Lavinie d'Ost, .- 74 

Lee, 61 

Le Carnee, 74 

Lelieur, 61 

Leonidas, 69 

Le Florifere, "74 

Le Grenadier, 74 

Le Phcenix, 74 

Le Similor, 62 

Leveson Gower, 74 

Lichas, 74 

Louis Bonaparte, 80 

Philippe, 69, 84 

Louise Colet, 57 

Lutea, 61 

Luxembourg Moss, 58 

Lyonnais, , 65 

Madame Angelina, 74 

Aud, 74 

Beluze, 71 

Breon, 69 

Burea, 69 

Byrne, 61 

Cousin, 74 

de Crequi, 69 

Damame, 81 

Desgaches, 81 

Desprez, 65, 74 

Ferray, 83 

Fremion, 81 

Guerin, 65 

Hersent, 67 

Helfenbein, 74 

Jouvain, 61 

Lacharme, 74 

Laffay, 81 

Manoel, 81 

Margat, 71 

Nerard, 75 

Pepin, 75 



Page. 

Madame Rivers, 81 

de Rohan, 69 

Roussell, 65 

de St. Joseph, 65 

Souchet, 75 

Tripet, 75 

Verdier, ,^1 

Mademoiselle Rachel, 75 

Magnolia Rose, 85 

Malvina, 57, 75 

Manteau de Jeanne d'Arc, 75 

Marechal de Villars, 75 

"Margat Jeune, 75 

Maria, 61 

Marianne, 75 

Marjolin. 69, 84 

Marquise Bocella, 81 

d'lvry, 75 

Mathilde Jourdeuil, 81 

Mauget, 57 

Melanie Cornu, 81 

Meillez, 69 

Melville, 65 

Minerva, 84 

Minor, 57 

Mirabile, 65 

Miss Fanny, 75 

Glegg, 61 

Mogador, 84 

Moire, 65 

Mondor, 65 

Montrosa, 61 

Moss Crestata, 56 

Mrs. Bosanquet, 75 

Elliott, 81 

Siddons, 61 

Wood, 78 

Mutabilis, 61 

Multiflora, 55 

Graulhie, 55 

Nankin, 61 

Napoleon, 64 

Narcisse, 61 

Nemesis 7o 

Ne Plus Ultra, 61 

Nerine, 75 

Nevia, 59 

New Double Musk Cluster, 86 

White Cluster Moss, 57 

Yellow Tea, 61 

Ninon de l'Enclos, 75 

Niphetos, 65 



156 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Page 

Nisida, 65 

Nivea, 86 

Noisette Agrippinia, 63 

( >deur d' Anisette, 61 

Odorata, 65 

Ophire, 61 

Original, 66 

Oscar Foulard, 57 

Leclerc, 75 

Pactoius, 61 

Palmyre, 84 

Panache dc Girardon, 84 

Pleine, 57 

Pauline PI antier, 66, 78 

Paul Joseph, 75 

Dupuy, 81 

Pellonia, 66 

Perfection, 66 

Perpetual Pompon, 83 

Red Moss, 57 

Petit Annie, 61 

Pictorium, 62 

Pierre de St. Cyre 76 

Pink Daily, 68 

Michrophyllia, 85 

Pius the Ninth, 81 

Pompon, 57, 70 

Feu, 57 

Pontuee, 84 

Pourpre Fafait, 76 

du Luxembourg, 86 

de Tyre, 76 

Premices des Charpennes, 76 

Prince Albert, 81 

(Paul's,) 76 

Charles 69 

d'Esterhazy, 6G 

Eugene,...." 68 

of Wales, 81 

Princessc Adelaide, 57, 66 

Clementine, 76 

Helene, 81 

Modestc, 66 

Maria, 66 

de Modena, 76 

de Nassau, 86 

Royale, 57, 84 

Prolific, .' 57 

Proserpine, 76 

Provins Moss, 57 

Prudence Rceser, 62 

Pulcherie, 84 



Page. 

Purpurea 86 

Quatre Saisons Mousseux, 57 

Queen of the Bourbons, 76 

Ranunculus Musk Cluster, 8(3 

Raymond, 76 

Reine de Bassaro, 66 

du Congres, 76 

des Fleurs 82 

de la Guillotiere. 82 

des Isles de Bourbon, 76 

de Lombardie, 69 

des Vierges, 76 

Reve du Bonheur, 66 

Requien, 84 

Rivers, 82 

Robin Hood, 82 

Roi des Beiges, 64 

Rose du Roi, 83 

Rosea, 86 

Rouge, 58 

de Luxembourg, 58 

Royale, 83 

Ruben Pourpre, 69 

Rubens, 69 

Rubra, 86 

Violaca* 86 

Russelliana, 55 

Russell's Cottage Rose, 55 

Saint Fiacre, 84 

Sablee, 58 

Safrano, 66 

Sage-leaved Moss, 58 

Sanguinea, 69 

Scarlet Grevillia, 55 

Scipio, 76 

Semperflorens, 69 

Seven Sisters, 55 

Silene, 66 

Similor, 62 

Sir Walter Scott, 62 

Sixth of June, 82 

Smitlni, 61 

Solfatare, 62 

Souvenir de Desire, 76 

de Dumont d'Urville,.. 76 

de la Malmaison 7<i 

Souchet, 76 

Splendens 58, 73 

Standard of Marengo, 82 

Striped Crimson Perpetual, 84 

Perpetual, 84 

Strombio, 66 



GENERAL INDEX. 



157 



Page 

Sully 77 

Sydonie Dorisy 77 

Taglioni, 66 

The Buret, 68 

The Chrysanthiuieflora, 61 

The a Fleurs Jeunne, GO 

Th«' Pactole, 61 

Taemistocles, 66 

Therese Margat, 71 

Theresa Stravius, 6*7 

Theresita, 77 

Tinwell Moss, 56 

Triomphe de la Duchere 62 

du Luxembourg, 66 

de Macheteaux, 86 

des Noisettes. 61 

de Plantier, 77 

de Rouen, 85 

Unique de Provins, 57 

Valentine, 66 



Pag .. 

Veilland, 58 

Vesuvius, 69 

Victoria Modeste, 66 

Victorieuse, 62 

Violet Cramoisie, 86 

Virgil, 77 

Virginale, 60 

Viscoratesse de Cazes, 66 

Viscorate de Cussy, 77 

Vitellina, 62 

Warratah, 85 

White Bath, 58 

Daily, 60 

Michrophy Ilia, 85 

William Jesse,.. 82 

Griffith, 82 

Yellow Tea 64 

Youlande d'Aragon, 85 

Zictrude, 62 

Zulema, 77 



VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 



Page. 

Anise, 141 

Aromatic and Medicinal Herbs, 141 

Artichoke, L08 

Jerusalem, 121 

Asparagus, 100 

Balm, 141 

Basil, Sweet, 742 

Beans 110 

Bene-Plant, 142 

Beest, Ill 

Boneset 142 

Borage, 142 

Borecole, 112 

Brocoli, 112 

Cabbage, 113 

Fly, remedies for, 114 

Cardoon, 115 

Carrot, 115 

Caraway, 143 

Catnep, 142 

Cauliflower, 116 

Celery, 116 

Chamomile 143 

Chervil, 117 



Page. 

Chives, 110 

Corn, Indian, 121 

Salad, 117 

Coriander, 143 

Cress, 118 

Water, 118 

Cucumber, 118 

Dill, 143 

Egg-Plant, HO 

Elecampane, 143 

Endive, 120 

Fennel, Common, 144 

Feverfew, 144 

Garden, situation of the, 106 

Ginger, 144 

Horehound, 144 

Horse-Radish, 120 

Hyssop, 145 

Lavender, 145 

Leek, 121 

Lettuice, 122 

Manures, properties of, 107 

Marigold, Pot, 145 

Marjoram, Sweet, 145 



158 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Page. 

Melon, 123 

Water, 124 

Mint, Spear, 146 

Pepper, 146 

Mushroom, 125 

Mustard, 126 

Nasturtium, 127 

Okra, 128 

Onion, 127 

Parsley, 128 

Parsnip, 128 

Peas, 129 

Pennyroyal, 146 

Pepper, 130 

Potato, 130 

Sweet, 131 

Pumpkin, 132 

Radish, 132 

Rhubarb, 133 

Rocambole, 133 



Rosemary, 146 

Rue, Common, 147 

Sage, Garden, 147 

Salsify, 134 

Savory, 147 

Scorzonera, 135 

Scurvy-Grass, 135 

Sea-Kale, 135 

Shallott, 136 

Skirret, 137 

Soil, properties of, 106 

Sorrel, 137 

Spinach, 137 

Sprouts, Brussel's, 112 

Squash, 138 

Tansy, 147 

Thyme, 148 

Tomato, 138 

Turnip, 130 

Wormwood, 148 



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